Changing Coolant Help..
#1
Changing Coolant Help..
Has anyone changed their coolant yet?
I tried to flush mine today and took me forever to flush everything out.
Now I am stuck because I can only fill in half of Coolant (4 liter instead 8 liter) into the radiator.
Basically I followed everything 03 G35 Coupe Service Manual said
1)Install resevoir tank, and radiator drain plug.
2)Remove air relief plug on heater hose. (this must be bleeding screw right?)
3)Fill radiator and reservoir tank to specified level.
*Pour engine coolant through engine coolant filer neck slowly of less than 2 liter a minute to allow air in system to escape.
Engine coolant capacity with MAX reservoir tank (8.7 liter 9-1/4 US qt)
*When engine coolant overflows air relief hole on heater hose, install air relief plug with new O-ring.
4) Install radiator cap.
5) Warm up until opening thermostat. Standard for warming up time is apporximately 10 minutes at 3k RPM.
*Make sure thermostat opening condition by touching raditor hose (lower) to see a flow of warm water.
6)Stop engine and cool down to less than approximately 50 C (122 F)
*cool down using fan to reduce the time
*if necessary refill radiator up to filler neck with engine coolant
7) Refill reservoir tank to MAX level line with engine coolant.
8) Repeat steps 3 through 6 two or more times with radiator cap installed until engine coolant level no longer drops
9)check cooling system for leaks with engine running
10) warm up engine and check for sound of engine coolant flow while running engine from idle up to 3000 rpm with heater temperature controller set at serveral position between COOL and WARM
*Sound may be noticeable at heater unit
11)Repeat step 10 three times
12)IF sound is heard, bleed air from cooling system by repeating stop 3 through 6 until engine coolant no longer drops
So the question is
Do I close the cap of Reservoir tank when I do step 3 to 6?
because in step 12 it said I am bleeding air by using step 3 through 6, however everything else should be closed (bleeding screw (air relief), radiator cap) only thing they didn't mention was the reservoir tank's cap. Maybe I should open this up during step 3 to 6? Because my reservoir tank's coolant doesn't go down at all. It stays the same HOT to COOL engine.
Or do I never close the air relief (bleeding screw) at all?
I am stuck at 3-6. And step 8.. I don't get it.. service manual isn't really helping me..but confusing me..
I tried to flush mine today and took me forever to flush everything out.
Now I am stuck because I can only fill in half of Coolant (4 liter instead 8 liter) into the radiator.
Basically I followed everything 03 G35 Coupe Service Manual said
1)Install resevoir tank, and radiator drain plug.
2)Remove air relief plug on heater hose. (this must be bleeding screw right?)
3)Fill radiator and reservoir tank to specified level.
*Pour engine coolant through engine coolant filer neck slowly of less than 2 liter a minute to allow air in system to escape.
Engine coolant capacity with MAX reservoir tank (8.7 liter 9-1/4 US qt)
*When engine coolant overflows air relief hole on heater hose, install air relief plug with new O-ring.
4) Install radiator cap.
5) Warm up until opening thermostat. Standard for warming up time is apporximately 10 minutes at 3k RPM.
*Make sure thermostat opening condition by touching raditor hose (lower) to see a flow of warm water.
6)Stop engine and cool down to less than approximately 50 C (122 F)
*cool down using fan to reduce the time
*if necessary refill radiator up to filler neck with engine coolant
7) Refill reservoir tank to MAX level line with engine coolant.
8) Repeat steps 3 through 6 two or more times with radiator cap installed until engine coolant level no longer drops
9)check cooling system for leaks with engine running
10) warm up engine and check for sound of engine coolant flow while running engine from idle up to 3000 rpm with heater temperature controller set at serveral position between COOL and WARM
*Sound may be noticeable at heater unit
11)Repeat step 10 three times
12)IF sound is heard, bleed air from cooling system by repeating stop 3 through 6 until engine coolant no longer drops
So the question is
Do I close the cap of Reservoir tank when I do step 3 to 6?
because in step 12 it said I am bleeding air by using step 3 through 6, however everything else should be closed (bleeding screw (air relief), radiator cap) only thing they didn't mention was the reservoir tank's cap. Maybe I should open this up during step 3 to 6? Because my reservoir tank's coolant doesn't go down at all. It stays the same HOT to COOL engine.
Or do I never close the air relief (bleeding screw) at all?
I am stuck at 3-6. And step 8.. I don't get it.. service manual isn't really helping me..but confusing me..
#2
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How much coolant did you remove? It is extremely difficult to remove very last drop of coolant from the car since some will remain withing the engine, heater core, etc. Unless you have an evacuation system, you will never get it all out, nor will you wbe able to put all of it back in.
When I changed my hoses, I was only able to put 1 gallon back in which is about half of capacity. Do the proper bleeding, and if the temp remains constant in the normal range (mine has always been about halfway, lil under) drive the car locally and keep an eye on the gauge. If the gauge doesn't fluctuate once at temp, you should be fine. Just keep an eye out for spike in temp as you may have an air pocket which will need to be bled!
The radiator overflow tank is not airtight and shouldn't have any effect as long as there is fluid in (one main reason why the tube is located at the bottom....and for other obvious reasons).
Once the coolant seeps out the bleeder in the back, you can tighten it down. Do the old Ron Popeil - set it n forget it! Then continue per directions of warmin n cooling car adding coolant via radiator until it no longer drops in level!
When I changed my hoses, I was only able to put 1 gallon back in which is about half of capacity. Do the proper bleeding, and if the temp remains constant in the normal range (mine has always been about halfway, lil under) drive the car locally and keep an eye on the gauge. If the gauge doesn't fluctuate once at temp, you should be fine. Just keep an eye out for spike in temp as you may have an air pocket which will need to be bled!
The radiator overflow tank is not airtight and shouldn't have any effect as long as there is fluid in (one main reason why the tube is located at the bottom....and for other obvious reasons).
Once the coolant seeps out the bleeder in the back, you can tighten it down. Do the old Ron Popeil - set it n forget it! Then continue per directions of warmin n cooling car adding coolant via radiator until it no longer drops in level!
Last edited by Diesel1; 12-01-2005 at 10:55 AM.
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