Yep, I HAD an intake on there. I took it off before taking it to the dealership and having it inspected by a mechanic and Insurance Claim Adjuster.
There's only 52k on the current motor. I feel bad for the damage my stupid mistake has done. $14 is about half the value of the car. Whats interesting is I dont understand how the heads can end up unscathed and the block assembly damaged to no further use? Wouldnt the heads take just as much damage the as piston and rods?

 

Piston slid up and down against the cylinder walls using your oil as a lubricant. With hydrolock there is sufficient water in the cylinder to render your oil ineffective. The cylinder heads keep air/fuel, in your case water, and exhaust flowing through the intake and exhaust ports, through a process of seating and unseating the valves at the correct times. The valves are sealed at the stem providing a barrier for the head from the combustion chamber. Worst case for your head is water has been in contact with your valves and there could be some corrosion where they seat. However, that can probably be machined to ensure a proper seal.

 

So what your saying is, in addition to possible bent rods, the cylinder walls could be damaged also? Corrosion? There was only water in the motor for 2-3 days. Is that long enough to damage the heads like so? I dont mean to seem like a nuisance but Im just curious to what extent damage is done and where. :P Because I mean, seriously, I was in neutral when the car sucked up the column of water and at almost idle. There werent any violent vibrations or sudden movents of the vehicle when it happened. The motor just seemed to shut off.

 

Take the money and buy a built motor for that much. Hell, buy a junk yard motor and send the car to GRD. Does anyone else think this is too much?

 

Okay, that is just plain RETARDED. Why in the world are they going to waste their time disassembling and repairing this motor and where in the world are they getting this $14K price tag? You can buy a brand spanking new complete motor for $5,063.

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...03&catalogid=1

As for labor, yanking one of these motors isn't rocket science. Simply remove the cooling system connections, wiring harness connectors, engine mount and cross members, unbolt tranny and exhaust and drop from the bottom. It should only take about 10 hours to swap in and out a motor. That's about $800. Total cost should be about $6,200 with fluids and shop materials.

I would be very concerned about them rebuilding your motor because a lot of times, even qualified techs can't get everything back together the right way especially with the rather complicated cam timing and mutli-cam setup. My biggest concern would be future leaks at seals. It sounds to me like there is a ton of wasted labor doing only a short block swap. BTW, a short block only costs $3,250.

$14K? What's their shop rate? $200/hr

 

I'm with you; take the money and RUN to your local speed shop.

 

Long block comes preinstalled with pistons, rods, crank, etc all in the engine. All they have to do is bolt on the upper parts and lower parts and its all done.

 

Short block: engine block, pistons/rods, crank

Long block: short block plus cylinder heads and cams

My point was that he can get a brand new engine for $5,063 including anchillary parts like the injectors, intake manifold, and such. Basically a plug-n-play crate engine.

 

I talked with the tech again. He says that a NEW long block assembly is being installed. They are not rebuilding my engine. It includes: complete heads, and short block assembly(pistons, rods, crank, etc). He says that parts alone are a bit over $10K and labor is $3000+. I've asked to be faxed a list of all parts and materials they are claiming to need. But yea, Im kinda dumbfounded at the figure when I see prices online for significantly less. Grrrrr... The only downfall if I do buy the engine on my own and take it to a reputable mechanic is that my 6yr, 100k mi. warranty may be compromised by that action. What do you fellas think?

 

He's on crack. No way should it cost $10,000. Get another shop to look at it. Where are you?

 

See this thread:
https://g35driver.com/forums/drivetrain/76657-sgp-racing-engine-tranny-packages.html

 

I hope those prices are in Canadian dollars

 

Im in San Luis Obispo, CA. The nearest dealership is in Fresno, and then the next nearest is Seaside in the Monterey area. I think that the service writer may have looked up the parts he needs at MSRP pricing. It's possible to accumulate a total like that, based at MSRP. 10K seems kinda ridiculous to me.

 

I don't live in California, but isn't that the Mecca for aftermarket shops? I would not be at the dealer. Bring it to a performance shop and I'm sure you could have a better motor for less.

 

do bypass valves work in reality if your cai gets soked up all the way