As per Request, here is the quick procedure for the stock air filter replacement by our very own <font color=red>Cato</font color=red> as posted on an earlier thread.



First take out the plastic "rivets" on the center horizontal air scoop. Take a small flat head screwdriver blade and slide it under the rivet head. Twist the screwdriver to pop the head up. Remove the rivet. There are two holding the center scoop down. Slide the scoop away. Remove the bolt holding the air box to the bracket.

The air box has a bottom (male) protrusion that actually
sits in a (female receptacle). Grab the air box using the power scoop as a handle and pull straight up. There will be a slight resistance.

When it pops out of its hole, the air box can be moved around, bending with the bellows. Undo the clamps holding the 2 sides of the Air Box together. Separate the air box and remove the paper filter. Simply replace it with the new K&N filter. At this point take a flashlight and look at the bottom of the air box. You will see the protrusion I referred to earlier. Then look below the air box. You will see the hole that the protrusion needs to fit back into.

Redo the air box clamps and position the assembled box so that the protrusion fits into the hole. Push down to seat properly.

Tighten the bracket bolt, place the horizontal scoop back into position. The rivets go back the way they came out. Make sure the rivet head is popped up and push the rivets back into their holes. Push the rivet head downward to lock. You are done. The mechanic at Infiniti showed me how to do this. After you have done it a couple of times, you can change the filter in less than two minutes.


And here is the procedure and pics for replacement of the stock duct and filter by our very own <font color=red>Townsley</font color=red> as posted on an earlier thread.

1) Remove the engine cover using the 10mm socket wrench:


2) Remove the inlet tube...
a) disconnect the bolt connecting the tube to the plenum
b) loosen the hose clamps at either end of the tube
c) work the tube loose from the air intake box at one end and the plenum at the other
d) with your fingers (or optional plyers) loosen the hoseclamp on the hose on the underside of the tube and work the hose off the inlet tube.
e) pull the tube out and set aside


3) Remove the bolt holding the intake box to the chassis


4) Unclamp the 4 clamps that lock the airbox closed. At this point, you can work the back of the box out, revealing the air filter.


NOTE: The MAF sensor has a cable that is tied to the housing. You can get significantly more "wiggle room" by cutting this cable-tie. Just make sure you aren't cutting the actual cable and be sure to have a spare cable tie handy. Here's the MAF sensor. You can trace the cable to where it's tied down. You may or may not need the extra room - I didn't.


5) Now that the airbox is open, pull out the old filter and install the K&N.


NOTE: There have been several threads debating which K&N part number is suitable for the G35. As far as the 33-2031-2 part number, you can clearly see it's a perfect fit. The pictures don't do justice to just how perfectly this part fits in the box. I have no experience with part number 33-2259 so can't comment on how well it fits. 33-2031-2 fits perfectly, though.


There was no need to use the spacers provided in the kit and mentioned in the installation instructions.


6) Now, we have to put everything back together again. Holding the air filter in place with your hand, lower the airbox back into place and seal the box. Firmly hold the airbox together and snap the clamps closed. Snap the bottom clamps closed first to avoid the box opening back up and the air filter dropping out.

7) If you cut the cable tie holding the MAF cable in place, replace it now.

8) Place the inlet tube back into the engine compartment, connect the hose to the bottom, squeeze the hoseclamp open and clamp the hose on.


9) Put the inlet tube back into place. Tighten the hose clamp at the plenum end first. Then the end that affixes to the intake box - this end is flexible and easier to work with.

10) Now that the hose clamps are in place and tightened, bolt the intake box back to the chassis, then bolt the inlet tube back onto the plenum

11) Finally, replace the engine cover - your [almost] done!

The general consensus on this forum is that you should disconnect the battery for at least 12 hours after any performance modifications to reset the ECU. If you make frequent mods, or if you want to reset your ECU with minimal effort, you may want to install a battery master disconnect switch, available from most auto parts stores.




<font color=green>GroundingGear™ Equipped </font color=green><P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by gsedanman on 04/06/04 10:34 PM.</EM></FONT></P>