Project Mu Rotor, Stoptech SS Lines, and Nismo Pad Installation
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Project Mu Rotor, Stoptech SS Lines, and Nismo Pad Installation
Ok. It was a long day and I am tired, but I want to share my pictures with the family. I am sure I will need to make changes and deletions or additions to this initial post. So if you have any questions, comments or additional pictures you think would help make the pictorial instruction better...let me know.
And let me say this set up seems to rock after bedding my brakes. My trip to Sebring in November will confirm this I hope...but I am VERY HAPPY at first impression.
Also...use this pictures as a reference, but also read the instructions from the Stoptech site...they are very good.
Jack up the car...duh
Put jack stands under frame rails or at jacking points
Make your friend who is letting you use his garage and helping pose for a picture
Loosen brake hose fitting with 10mm flare wrench
Remove retaining clip with needle nose pliers. After removing retaining clip finish disconnecting the hard line from the oem rubber line. If you are using Stoptech lines they supply you with plugs to put over the hard line to limit/prevent additions dripping out of your brake fluid. This is important since if you do not plug the line eventually your master cylinder will drain out completely...not good.
Remove the 12mm(i think) retaining clips/bolts holding the brake line to the suspension.
Use an ice pic to carefully tap back the retaining pins after pulling out the cotar pins
Use something to press back the pads. Make sure end of brake line is in a pan so when the brake fluid drains out...
Use a breaker bar to remove the 22mm bolts that hold the caliper in place...I am currently not holding a breaker bar.
Remove brake line from caliper and stick them in a box,pan...somewhere. Also go clean and inspect your calipers.
Should have said this sooner, like as soon as the wheel is removed spray PB Blaster around studs and center of old rotor. Now take a rubber mallet and bang around the edge of the rotor and slide the loose rotor off the the studs. Empty hub.
Project Mu Rotor. The slits do not determine the rotation of the rotor. The interior vains do, so read your manual or the marking on the rotor. I know for instance that Stoptechs mounted like this would be backwards which is not good for cooling.
Install caliper...though don't torque the bolts. Though I don't have a picture, you will want to remove the top retaining bolt and rotate caliper into a vertical direction when you bleed the front brakes. It made a big difference...and tap the caliper with a rubber mallet to dislodge air bubbles too.
Install SS brake lines using 9-12 ft/lbs of torque for banjo nut...or what ever your supplier/parts requires.
Attach clip to upright and route the lines back and around suspension and reconnect with body hard line with flare wrench. Reinstall retaining clip.
Install pads...using anti squeel compound. I used CRC Disc Brake Quiet I bought a local auto parts stors. These are the oem shims I am re-using. These are old pictures from a previous pictorial I made.
hooo...ahhh
Move to the rears. You will need to bang on the back rotors more than the fronts to knock them loose. Of course, they will never come loose if your parking brake is applied/on/in use...whatever. Make sure that you remove the rubber emergency brake adjuster hole plug from old rear rotor and install on new rear rotor. I did not take a picture of this.
Ok. There are a lot less pictures for the rear...but hopefully you are getting the idea. The mounting bolts for the rear calipers are torqued to about 60ft/lbs and the fronts will be torqued to about 100ft/lbs when you do torque them. You and a friend will be bleeding the rears first, then the fronts with top rotor mounting bolt out so you can hold the caliper nearly vertical while doing the initial bleeding. Watch the level in the resevoir OFTEN! Also, G35's and 350z's with VDC will need to have the negative battery terminal disconnected. Make sure your windows are down before doing this since they drop raise a half inch as you open and close the door. After you think you are satisfied torque down the front caliper mounting bolts. Put on the wheels and drive around gingerly and then throw in a few hard stops. I then returned to the garage with the car and bled the brakes again...and then again just being **** about it. You are also trying to flush out as much of the old brake fluid from the system as you can. We pumped 2 and half bottles of Motul RBF600 dot 4 fluids through the system during the multiple bleeds.
And let me say this set up seems to rock after bedding my brakes. My trip to Sebring in November will confirm this I hope...but I am VERY HAPPY at first impression.
Also...use this pictures as a reference, but also read the instructions from the Stoptech site...they are very good.
Jack up the car...duh
Put jack stands under frame rails or at jacking points
Make your friend who is letting you use his garage and helping pose for a picture
Loosen brake hose fitting with 10mm flare wrench
Remove retaining clip with needle nose pliers. After removing retaining clip finish disconnecting the hard line from the oem rubber line. If you are using Stoptech lines they supply you with plugs to put over the hard line to limit/prevent additions dripping out of your brake fluid. This is important since if you do not plug the line eventually your master cylinder will drain out completely...not good.
Remove the 12mm(i think) retaining clips/bolts holding the brake line to the suspension.
Use an ice pic to carefully tap back the retaining pins after pulling out the cotar pins
Use something to press back the pads. Make sure end of brake line is in a pan so when the brake fluid drains out...
Use a breaker bar to remove the 22mm bolts that hold the caliper in place...I am currently not holding a breaker bar.
Remove brake line from caliper and stick them in a box,pan...somewhere. Also go clean and inspect your calipers.
Should have said this sooner, like as soon as the wheel is removed spray PB Blaster around studs and center of old rotor. Now take a rubber mallet and bang around the edge of the rotor and slide the loose rotor off the the studs. Empty hub.
Project Mu Rotor. The slits do not determine the rotation of the rotor. The interior vains do, so read your manual or the marking on the rotor. I know for instance that Stoptechs mounted like this would be backwards which is not good for cooling.
Install caliper...though don't torque the bolts. Though I don't have a picture, you will want to remove the top retaining bolt and rotate caliper into a vertical direction when you bleed the front brakes. It made a big difference...and tap the caliper with a rubber mallet to dislodge air bubbles too.
Install SS brake lines using 9-12 ft/lbs of torque for banjo nut...or what ever your supplier/parts requires.
Attach clip to upright and route the lines back and around suspension and reconnect with body hard line with flare wrench. Reinstall retaining clip.
Install pads...using anti squeel compound. I used CRC Disc Brake Quiet I bought a local auto parts stors. These are the oem shims I am re-using. These are old pictures from a previous pictorial I made.
hooo...ahhh
Move to the rears. You will need to bang on the back rotors more than the fronts to knock them loose. Of course, they will never come loose if your parking brake is applied/on/in use...whatever. Make sure that you remove the rubber emergency brake adjuster hole plug from old rear rotor and install on new rear rotor. I did not take a picture of this.
Ok. There are a lot less pictures for the rear...but hopefully you are getting the idea. The mounting bolts for the rear calipers are torqued to about 60ft/lbs and the fronts will be torqued to about 100ft/lbs when you do torque them. You and a friend will be bleeding the rears first, then the fronts with top rotor mounting bolt out so you can hold the caliper nearly vertical while doing the initial bleeding. Watch the level in the resevoir OFTEN! Also, G35's and 350z's with VDC will need to have the negative battery terminal disconnected. Make sure your windows are down before doing this since they drop raise a half inch as you open and close the door. After you think you are satisfied torque down the front caliper mounting bolts. Put on the wheels and drive around gingerly and then throw in a few hard stops. I then returned to the garage with the car and bled the brakes again...and then again just being **** about it. You are also trying to flush out as much of the old brake fluid from the system as you can. We pumped 2 and half bottles of Motul RBF600 dot 4 fluids through the system during the multiple bleeds.
Last edited by dothemath; Oct 15, 2007 at 04:12 PM.
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Originally Posted by Mitsuko
man i just did my brakes too and all i can say is yours are clean as f... i gotta clean mine now just for feeling bad sakes
good work
good work
What you can't tell from these pictures is that the rest of my car needs to be washed...LOL...so don't feel to bad.Thanks for all the positive feedback. It was a fun day. The guy helping me was a student of mine from five years ago...pretty cool!
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