power adding: something a little more interesting
#17
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#18
Originally Posted by DrRabbitFurHead
Header leak. I'm 100% sure of it. If they backed out the head bolts they DID NOT get them back in all of the way. Too weird of an angle and trying to use the torax head on a bolt that is 1.5" plus in length is way tough.
You wouldn't be the first with this problem... trust me......
You wouldn't be the first with this problem... trust me......
#19
Originally Posted by DrRabbitFurHead
Header leak. I'm 100% sure of it. If they backed out the head bolts they DID NOT get them back in all of the way. Too weird of an angle and trying to use the torax head on a bolt that is 1.5" plus in length is way tough.
You wouldn't be the first with this problem... trust me......
You wouldn't be the first with this problem... trust me......
I mean, I wasn't (again) expecting huge gains at peak, but was expecting a broader range of gains across the spectrum though granted, would be larger at higher rpm's. Just the fact that the hp curve virtually mirrors the previous plot except for being 1-2hp greater, but the waviness of the torque curve and loss seems impossible with aftermarket headers...
#21
Well, guess what?
No header leak, peeps. We tried a tissue on a coat-hanger test, baby power test, etc. Got it down, and yup--5 threads as Neff, err, the good Dr advised. All seems in perfect working order.
Another lightly modded G was found in my neighborhood as well. I listen to it--granted, a 2003 MT, and it appears it is my headers that are indeed making the noise, but again, no leak is detected and I have no code on the 'ol dash.
It looks like that means I saw less than 4hp/4tq gains with the Strup headers. In looking further, we had another guy in their shop who operates a dyno elsewhere (Velocity) and he looked at hte Z graph of the Strup headers pre/post install. The gains were relatively uniform from the stock plot. That being said, mine are relatively uniform as well, just with less than the 17hp/20tq gained on the stock Z.
Oh well...At least we know the headers--at least the Strups--aren't really producing noticable gains when used with my other mods. I think replacing the exhaust will liven things up a bit more, but I just bought a brush guard for the Sequioa, new Bikini top, winch and cover for the Jeep, so with that and all our trips coming up, I'll probably wait until later this summer...
For now, seems to be you can't beat the pulley/intake/grounding kit/plenum spacer combo ($890)--and those--even if you paid for install--would still be less than/same as the headers and their install alone ($1050), and they provided over 20hp/10tq-though it was often 15-20tq greater throughout the spectrum rather than simply peak power...
No header leak, peeps. We tried a tissue on a coat-hanger test, baby power test, etc. Got it down, and yup--5 threads as Neff, err, the good Dr advised. All seems in perfect working order.
Another lightly modded G was found in my neighborhood as well. I listen to it--granted, a 2003 MT, and it appears it is my headers that are indeed making the noise, but again, no leak is detected and I have no code on the 'ol dash.
It looks like that means I saw less than 4hp/4tq gains with the Strup headers. In looking further, we had another guy in their shop who operates a dyno elsewhere (Velocity) and he looked at hte Z graph of the Strup headers pre/post install. The gains were relatively uniform from the stock plot. That being said, mine are relatively uniform as well, just with less than the 17hp/20tq gained on the stock Z.
Oh well...At least we know the headers--at least the Strups--aren't really producing noticable gains when used with my other mods. I think replacing the exhaust will liven things up a bit more, but I just bought a brush guard for the Sequioa, new Bikini top, winch and cover for the Jeep, so with that and all our trips coming up, I'll probably wait until later this summer...
For now, seems to be you can't beat the pulley/intake/grounding kit/plenum spacer combo ($890)--and those--even if you paid for install--would still be less than/same as the headers and their install alone ($1050), and they provided over 20hp/10tq-though it was often 15-20tq greater throughout the spectrum rather than simply peak power...
#22
Take a look at this:
http://www.technosquareinc.com/350reset.htm
All I can say is that last night before leaving work I did the ECU reset and the AT gimmick. The car drove home in rush hour traffic and I was only able to open it up a couple of times over 27 miles, but I was banging the maunmatic gears and winding it up pretty hard. The car felt a little sluggish, but it ran a bit better--as if the idle/timing adjusted. Anyway, it sat for about an hour and I drove it less than a mile to my gym and home--felt nothing.
This morning I came to work a bit later. Not a lot of traffic and I was able to open up the car. Well, holy shi+! It's like 80 degrees and 90% humidity today--8 degrees warmer and 30 % more humidity than yesterday, and the car is TOTALLY DIFFERENT. It feels much quicker. It's easily breaking loose the tires and further, the AT manumatic shift from 1/2 and 2/3 are much 'snappier' than before.
If you've seen my other post as of late with my header install and questions about problems, after doing the reset, I am not questioning anymore. I'll redyno the car in another week or two when I have time. I can feel in my seat gains that I haven't felt before, though it took driving the car a bit. I guess the ECU learned what I was doing post reset and factored in the mods. I can also say the odd noise like stuff I was hearing is gone and the car does sound--and seem--to be running smoother. Lastly, my idle was around 750-800 rpms before reset--now about 900, and doesn't feel as lopey. I mean, I did the battery thing but only for 4 or 5 hours to see if it reset, but the above link and instruction really seemed to do something...Go fiigure...
http://www.technosquareinc.com/350reset.htm
All I can say is that last night before leaving work I did the ECU reset and the AT gimmick. The car drove home in rush hour traffic and I was only able to open it up a couple of times over 27 miles, but I was banging the maunmatic gears and winding it up pretty hard. The car felt a little sluggish, but it ran a bit better--as if the idle/timing adjusted. Anyway, it sat for about an hour and I drove it less than a mile to my gym and home--felt nothing.
This morning I came to work a bit later. Not a lot of traffic and I was able to open up the car. Well, holy shi+! It's like 80 degrees and 90% humidity today--8 degrees warmer and 30 % more humidity than yesterday, and the car is TOTALLY DIFFERENT. It feels much quicker. It's easily breaking loose the tires and further, the AT manumatic shift from 1/2 and 2/3 are much 'snappier' than before.
If you've seen my other post as of late with my header install and questions about problems, after doing the reset, I am not questioning anymore. I'll redyno the car in another week or two when I have time. I can feel in my seat gains that I haven't felt before, though it took driving the car a bit. I guess the ECU learned what I was doing post reset and factored in the mods. I can also say the odd noise like stuff I was hearing is gone and the car does sound--and seem--to be running smoother. Lastly, my idle was around 750-800 rpms before reset--now about 900, and doesn't feel as lopey. I mean, I did the battery thing but only for 4 or 5 hours to see if it reset, but the above link and instruction really seemed to do something...Go fiigure...
#24
I had some problems with my header install as you all know. After the post by the tech at Technosquare about resetting my ECU, well, thanks a ton!!!
I did reset my ECU and had the car redyno'd today. Granted it is cooler (55 degrees at dyno time), but the reset instructions really seemed to help by the butt dyno. I have now hit 255.6hp(245.8hp SAE corrected) and 235.6tq(229.8 tq (SAE corrected). Torque stays over 210tq until almost 6200 rpms, and again it is now the useable gains that one can see from the plots that now make the headers something viable to me...
I'll try and post the dyno plot later tonight so we can all see, but the d@mn dyno go ran into problems again with his printer and the file he has sent me has NOTHING IN IT!. I really appreciate you guys and the input some of you gave here and by PM.
Overall, I am pleased that it was only $2k to make almpt 30hp/15tq and more importantly, 35tq in useable gains over 2k-4500 rpms. Certainly beats the 233hp/196tq TL-S with all of the bolt-ons but exhaust. Now if I can beat the TL-S's (yup, with spare, gas and normally inflated tires) 14.237 1/4 mile, I'll be really happy. Anyway, I'm taking my kids to Datona March 27-31, so I hope to shoot over to OSW that Wednesday if anyone is up for it!!!
I did reset my ECU and had the car redyno'd today. Granted it is cooler (55 degrees at dyno time), but the reset instructions really seemed to help by the butt dyno. I have now hit 255.6hp(245.8hp SAE corrected) and 235.6tq(229.8 tq (SAE corrected). Torque stays over 210tq until almost 6200 rpms, and again it is now the useable gains that one can see from the plots that now make the headers something viable to me...
I'll try and post the dyno plot later tonight so we can all see, but the d@mn dyno go ran into problems again with his printer and the file he has sent me has NOTHING IN IT!. I really appreciate you guys and the input some of you gave here and by PM.
Overall, I am pleased that it was only $2k to make almpt 30hp/15tq and more importantly, 35tq in useable gains over 2k-4500 rpms. Certainly beats the 233hp/196tq TL-S with all of the bolt-ons but exhaust. Now if I can beat the TL-S's (yup, with spare, gas and normally inflated tires) 14.237 1/4 mile, I'll be really happy. Anyway, I'm taking my kids to Datona March 27-31, so I hope to shoot over to OSW that Wednesday if anyone is up for it!!!
#25
#26
i went on the dyno the other day, it was 88 outside, it was last friday when it got pretty hot outside. i have a injen CAI (that i am thinking about getting rid of) skunk2 plenum spacer, underdrive pulley set, and test pipes. there is a untuned utec in my car also with only the base map on it from turboxs which is very very conservative and my a/f starts out well and goes up to 14 for a while in the midrange. ill throw my dyno sheet on here. the run that hit 241 is another shop that tuned the utec on someone elses car. so i kept that map and tried to run it once. didnt work out so well on my car....
i also hit my nitrous in one run but we figure that the plugs are gapped a little far and it putting out the spark for a sec (as you can see the fall on the chart)
170 foot pounds of torque is why i can get my car sideways in fourth gear going 70 down the street though
i will be going back to the dyno in the next week or two and playing with the utec more to get my a/f more stable and have them run constant across the board. i should be able to tune at least 10 more horses outta it !!!
i also hit my nitrous in one run but we figure that the plugs are gapped a little far and it putting out the spark for a sec (as you can see the fall on the chart)
170 foot pounds of torque is why i can get my car sideways in fourth gear going 70 down the street though
i will be going back to the dyno in the next week or two and playing with the utec more to get my a/f more stable and have them run constant across the board. i should be able to tune at least 10 more horses outta it !!!
Last edited by Audible Mayhem; 03-17-2006 at 06:26 AM.
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