Depends on the tune.

We like to quote Up top 400 WHP on a stock motor, after that you are on a thin line IMO on pump. Now on Race fuel, no detonation, so you can run more and be safe as long as the fuel mixture is in the mid 11s.

M

 

All depends on the TUNE.

 

Not true anymore. Plenty of cars on 400 (mostly Turbo) with everything added for safety and well tuned but still blew within 3 months. The bar has been lowered, stay below 400 and anything 400+ you better start thinking twice.

 

...just depends on how you drive. Mis-shifting or over-rev'n is a bitch... The people who blew their motors in 3 months most likely tracked it regularly, or were just spirited drivers. Normal driving with FI just reduces the life the motor by whatever percentage if any, but then who would boost their car to drive normally??

 

Listen.. I was in the same boat as you asking aroudn for this stuff.. I have an 06 6MT, i hit 418whp/372tq on APS ST w/ the APS 3" True Dual exhuast w/ custom y-pipe, as well as a JWT Flywheel & Clutch.

Drivin it for like 2k almost, and i beat the **** outta it. Probably given about 30 friends "test-drives" in it to let them feel the power. I constantly high-rpm shift (6k's) Truthfully it feels completely safe my A/F ratios hit low 11- high 10s

Dont listen to the hype all you need to know is this, spend the money you take the chance, but trust me voiding my warranty and being able to kick the crap outta 05 zo6's & 911's is without a doubt worth the chance.

As to probelms, the scavenger pumps power supply fell out, flooded the intercooler, turbo, & exhaust w/ oil including intake etc. Yea it was beautiful, all my clamps then proceeded to pop off for the fact that oil made them greasy so yea. Now its going ok id say.

 

Name all these "perfectly" tuned cars that blew at 400whp!!???

400whp, and and about 400ftlb tq is 'about' as high as you can expect to go for reliability and longevity, with a Great tune with a GOOD EM system (which I would say, nothing less than a UTEC, and anything more), and proper install and maintenance.
Reliable? Well, there are, dare I say, Thousands of people pushing 400 hp on a stock block without any problems!! Why? Proper install, proper tuning, proper maintenance!
Do some people have bad luck? yes. Are all cars build equally? no.
Does everyone who ever went FI on their Z/G post on the internet? hell no! You see all these people searching for answers online when they have issues, but only a fraction of people who are perfectly happy with their FI'd ride! That's b/c they are out there Enjoying it!

Any time you start modding your car, ... there is the potential to have problems. And as such, there are steps you can take to Minimize those problems (all fore mentioned items).
So bottom line is, ... if you get turbo'd or SC'd, ... and want a "magic number" to stay under, .... 400, ... there you go. Don't Ever go cheap when it comes to aftermarket FI, do it Right the First time. Proper Install, Proper Tuning, Proper Maintenance (PI, PT, PM). almost could call it The 3 P's. LOL

 

I'm one of those who thought he "did it right the first time" (except for the build ) by having it installed and tuned by one of the top APS installers/tuners in the country. I have all the gauges, always monitored them, did the proper maintenance and she still blew after only a few thousand miles. I was tuned to 442whp on 94 octane and was assured back then that I was within safe limits and that it was all about the tune. I never raced it but did drive it aggressively and keep in mind this is coming from a 40year old fart. Of course APS recently, within the last 4 months, strongly recommends not going over 380whp. A year ago at the time of my install, if I had been strongly advised to keep it at 380whp or under, I would have. If I could of done it all over again I would of built first or at least tuned it for no more than 360-380whp. But at the time of the install and tune, it was my decision to keep it at 442whp.

I know there are several Zs and some other Gs running over 400whp on stock blocks and that's what I bought into. If you want to save yourself at least $5-7K and even more hassle just spend a little more now and build it while the turbos are being installed.

 

OK, I'm fairly new and have no technical data, but I present this.
Your warranty is good as long as you don't do the following..
1. Boost over 7psi
2. Run Nitrous
3. Remove any emissions equipment (High Flow is ok, Test pipe not)
4. Change any of the internal engine parts.

So, is it safe to run 400RWHP? I would say HELL YES, as long as you're not breaking one of the above rules you still have a warranty.. Is that possible? .. probably not, but hey, I would rather keep my warranty than lose it..
you figure 7PSI is good for about 70HP, that's the working non-technical average.. You toss a Kinetix Plenum, HFC, exhaust, CAI, you're looking at most 110HP to the crank, maybe 85 RWH.. MAYBE....
Anything above that is going to require you void your warranty somewhere along the line, not sure if that's worth it to you, it's not to me..

 

Ummmm....I'd say your warranty is out the window as soon as you bolt any type of FI on the motor.

 

I don't know what is the argument? I said the bar has been lowered and 400whp is the max for Stock Internals

Here are some example who blew their motor who had around 400whp.

Alberto: Hardly consider a Newbie and had all the safety added including Utec/fuel Return. Blew in 3 months

http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=198439

JetPilot: with a UTEC/fuel return/larger injectors with tial wastegate/external dump. CPRacing tuned to around 400-410whp

http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=198152


calimarc : Was running 450whp running 100 Octane APS TT

http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthre...ght=blew+motor



350zbiturbo: blew in a month TN but only a Reflash (fine No EMS doesn't count)

my point is for stock internal Even with all the safety added on and a decent EMS 400+ is still pushing it.

 

So did you build you motor? This is why I'm trying to save enough to do the build and turbo at the same time. If I can't save enough then I'll just go with SC

 

^^ those are 3 or 4 people that had issues out of How many that have not??? THAT, is my point.
Going with a SC is no less of a risk than turbo! You can run whatever boost you want on a single or twin setup, ... so saying you want to go with a SC to be "safe" is misleading.

the two things I say were the down sides for BrianlG35C is that it was tuned with the Unichip and pushing 450whp..... But like he said, if info was available then like it is now (like APS recommending ~380whp tops on stock bottom), he would have done it a bit different.

 

/\ Cant you see all the common denominator here? They are all turbo Turbo gives you more torque and much sooner and that is why it is more unpredictable. Turbo can also give you boost spike that also add to the unpredictability. This is not Turbo vs SC but we are talking about Stock Internal limits. Have you seen how many Built Engine in My350Z? You said give a name that has well Tuned and all added safety and i gave you some trust me there are more I just don't have time to dig them all up. I don't know what you're insisting here, do we both agree that 400+ is to risky on stock internal. You ask every Tuner out there and they will say anything above 400 is to risky, and it is safe to say that they have seen more blown engine than any of us.

Also Unichip is still a Tunable EMS so don't knock it down. Unichip still does what it supposed to do especially for low boost.

Edit:

Check this thread, coz i think you might agree with this except when he said that SC are a little safer than Turbo.
https://g35driver.com/forums/forced-induction/115302-tired-safe-limit-stock-internals-threads.html

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like i said before on here, its all how you drive it, even with a safe tune. for instance my friend alberto who posts mostly on MY350 were talking about this a couple days ago. he had his peak timing at 13-14 degrees, now many people that know about tuning will verify that is pretty low and safe for 9 PSI, but he drives like i do and like to rev high and try to break things.


of course he blew his motor a month or so ago and i asked him why he thinks?? he said it has to be over revving the engine up around 7000 all the time.


i would say some advice would be to keep the tune safe and keep the rev limit stock for a lasting stock block.

 

Where did you get that info? Is that a fact? Or a Guess?
I would like to print a copy & use for FI install.

thanks