After the vortech...
#1
After the vortech...
I've been searching quite a bit lately and haven't come up with any answers so I have a few questions for you more experienced FI guys so bare with me.
I see not many people have aftermarket cams on their car, is there a reason why not many people buy them? If anyone does have cams, do you have any suggestions as to what brand to get and how much rwhp gains can I expect?
I have a vortech supercharger running 8psi with a 3.12 pulley, exhuast, headers, new injectors, e-manage ultimate, valve body, tranny cooler, and torque converter with 350rwhp. Now would it be a good idea to get new rods and up the psi or would yall suggest other parts to go along with the rods. I want to get around 450-475rwhp so any help will be considered and appreciated.
Thanks in advance
I see not many people have aftermarket cams on their car, is there a reason why not many people buy them? If anyone does have cams, do you have any suggestions as to what brand to get and how much rwhp gains can I expect?
I have a vortech supercharger running 8psi with a 3.12 pulley, exhuast, headers, new injectors, e-manage ultimate, valve body, tranny cooler, and torque converter with 350rwhp. Now would it be a good idea to get new rods and up the psi or would yall suggest other parts to go along with the rods. I want to get around 450-475rwhp so any help will be considered and appreciated.
Thanks in advance
#2
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With the AT5 its hard to get that WHP your looking for . I have built motor 8.5 to 1 pistons , rods , at 13 to 14psi with a T-trim blower , bigger IC , bigger IC pipe , Nismo cams , headers ,no cats , 2 1/4 inch dual exhaust , return fuel system , 550 inj. , and w/m injection . With a conservitive tune on a Mustang dyno I'm at 425 whp . Could get 10 to 15 more whp , but I dont want to take a chance with out a better EMU . On a DynoJet dyno I woud think it would dyno around 460 to 480whp . Remember ...you need 14.7psi to double your whp when N/A with a supercharger .
#3
#4
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stock compression and 8 or 9 psi , would have been fine . 14 psi is getting up there and I am looking to boost safely . I was expecting more boost also . But belt slippage stopped that for now .
What makes you think a SC is more like a N/A set up ? Boost is boost . 14psi with a SC is the same as 14psi with a turbo . Except you will lose less power to the wheels with a turbo
What makes you think a SC is more like a N/A set up ? Boost is boost . 14psi with a SC is the same as 14psi with a turbo . Except you will lose less power to the wheels with a turbo
Last edited by booger; 10-04-2006 at 08:45 AM.
#5
Originally Posted by Mr_pharmD
why did u go with such a low compression? I bet with 11:1 ratio psitons u can gain around 20+ hp. I understand turbos going low compression so they can boost more psi but for sc it's similar to NA setup.
#6
Ya, I hear u about the risk of detonation but with 10.5:1 I think that is just right and I doubt the risk of detonation would be that great since your rods/pistons are already upgraded to handle the pw.
I'm not sure why u havent upgraded to the 2.87 pulley when u have pistons/rods? Why would u need to worry too much about oil temps unless u plan on tracking the car every wknd or always have a lead foot when u drive. how much hp are u making now with the 3.12 bc I dont even think u really need pistons/rods unless u pushing over 400hp?
I'm not sure why u havent upgraded to the 2.87 pulley when u have pistons/rods? Why would u need to worry too much about oil temps unless u plan on tracking the car every wknd or always have a lead foot when u drive. how much hp are u making now with the 3.12 bc I dont even think u really need pistons/rods unless u pushing over 400hp?
#7
I was having overheating issues with my built block and it was never concluded if it was due to air in the lines or head lift. However, there was some audible detonation happening. Before I tore the block down to replace the head gasket and upgrade the studs, I had my mechanic install the head strengthening mod (purchased from overzealous1 on my350z.com) which seems to have worked. (I also had the tune tweaked). But i can never be sure if it was the mod or if we finally just bled the coolant system completely.
Heat is the enemy. I want to get things as cool as possible before I crank up the boost any higher. Also, i am a little short on $$ and I can't afford to tear down the engine to replace a head gasket at this time if the need should arise. I am in the process of adding J&S Safeguard and will feel a little better once it is in. A built engine is not bullet-proof, you still need to take precautions.
My last dyno run a few weeks ago was 410 rwhp/340rwtq.
Heat is the enemy. I want to get things as cool as possible before I crank up the boost any higher. Also, i am a little short on $$ and I can't afford to tear down the engine to replace a head gasket at this time if the need should arise. I am in the process of adding J&S Safeguard and will feel a little better once it is in. A built engine is not bullet-proof, you still need to take precautions.
My last dyno run a few weeks ago was 410 rwhp/340rwtq.
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#9
#10
I have basically the same mods. MREV 2+ with 5/16spacers, borla exhaust, alphawerks hearders, kinetix hi flow cat, EU, 380cc, and fmu/inline pump. I'm still puzzle why my numbers are soo low. The only reason I see from the dyno is my A/F ratio up top is around 10.5 which I think I could have been in the low 11s instead and it was around 96 degrees.
Anyone know if going from 10.5 to 11.2 will net much hp difference? It seems like most ppl with my mods and 3.12 pulley are at least getting +380hp. I'm really tempted to go out and try a different dyno to see if the numbers are constant.
Anyone know if going from 10.5 to 11.2 will net much hp difference? It seems like most ppl with my mods and 3.12 pulley are at least getting +380hp. I'm really tempted to go out and try a different dyno to see if the numbers are constant.
#11
#12
Originally Posted by Mr_pharmD
I have basically the same mods. MREV 2+ with 5/16spacers, borla exhaust, alphawerks hearders, kinetix hi flow cat, EU, 380cc, and fmu/inline pump. I'm still puzzle why my numbers are soo low. The only reason I see from the dyno is my A/F ratio up top is around 10.5 which I think I could have been in the low 11s instead and it was around 96 degrees.
Anyone know if going from 10.5 to 11.2 will net much hp difference? It seems like most ppl with my mods and 3.12 pulley are at least getting +380hp. I'm really tempted to go out and try a different dyno to see if the numbers are constant.
Anyone know if going from 10.5 to 11.2 will net much hp difference? It seems like most ppl with my mods and 3.12 pulley are at least getting +380hp. I'm really tempted to go out and try a different dyno to see if the numbers are constant.
Rick
#13
Originally Posted by ISMSOLUTIONS
Mine are set pretty much at a flat 11.8 -
Rick
Rick
After looking at my wideband more closely, I noticed it staying in the 10.0 all the way to redline. Is that just too rich and maybe the reason for my low hp?
11.8 would be nice if i actually had pistons/rods but with stock setup I think 11.5 is the most I would like to be at.
Anyone know how much hp difference between 10.0-11.0 a/f ratio?
#14