This has actually been going on for a while. The most important thing with these types of kits is to not get on it until after it has been properly tuned. Because the FMU is adjustable, it need to be tuned properly on a dyno. That doesn't mean using a cheap A/F gauge or a slip-in-the-tailpipe inaccurate wideband. It should be done with a real wideband in the exhaust before the cat. This is the biggest mistake most tuners make. An oxygen sensor's readings are completely different if it is before or after the cat. The only way to tune it safely will be to put a bung in the exhaust before the cat and run a wideband to it. Companies like FJO make inexpensive true accurate widebands for tuning. Many dynos have horibas they can install if you have teh bung in place. While some people will spend $15K to build up there car, they won't spend $700 for a decent wideband to tune it. Instead, they will trust an innacurate tailpipe tester with their money.

I have personally ran a Vortech S-trim running 9.5 psi of boost on my Maxima on the stock ECU and stock 10.0:1 compression with no problems on high octant pump gas. My only fuel upgrades were a second in-line fuel pump and a Bell Engineering adjustable FMU that was tuned on a dyno with a true wideband. Don't be surprised though if you do burn up your stock plugs. This is because they are too hot for the combustion charge. One step colder plugs should be added if you are running over 5 psi of boost. I burned up my first plugs on the Maxima in a year. The colder plugs(same as the stock plugs on a 300ZX-TT) were still looking good after a year of hard use. Before you accept the accusations, get all the facts first.

04' G35 Coupe(finally in the garage)
6-sp Diamond Graphite/Willow w/Premium