Vortech dyno and impressions + youtube vids
#16
04-03-2007, 12:21 AM
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Originally Posted by 98intrigue
I want to see a revup video from the OTHER side of your cas, hahaha
Congrats on going FI. I sometimes feel the same way as you do...the FI doesn't feel THAT much faster. But my mind changes when I give rides or have a friendly run with a car or look at my track time
I'm sure you will love it once you get everything 100%...I bet all the downtime and the sideskirt issue has got you down a bit.
Congrats on going FI. I sometimes feel the same way as you do...the FI doesn't feel THAT much faster. But my mind changes when I give rides or have a friendly run with a car or look at my track time
I'm sure you will love it once you get everything 100%...I bet all the downtime and the sideskirt issue has got you down a bit. And yes I do have a new bumper, I have a kuruma Z that's been sitting in my dining room for quite some time now. I want to get that painted, but at the same time i want to drive my car too! I'm sick of waiting for shops.Oh and I re-read your post sentry and the car is not bone stock i do have an HKS exhaust if that makes any difference. I also had a crawford plenum but I removed it prior to tuning. Stupid me I thought that my low boost problem may be contributed by a leak caused by the crawford plenum so I removed it, and in doing so I managed to damage the plenum so I could not reuse it. So stock plenum went back on.
Last edited by imalazeeass; 04-03-2007 at 12:24 AM.
#18
04-03-2007, 03:04 AM
Originally Posted by sentry65
thanks for the post!
That's not a bad dyno at all for basically a bone stock car with the vortech +3.12 pulley. The dyno is spot on to what I'd expect - maybe even 5whp better than I'd normally guess for that setup
you're running the stock clutch too right?
If you had a lighter weight clutch, 2.87 pulley + larger injectors etc, more open exhaust, and maybe the 3.9 final drive, it's a totally different car.
I mean, just adding those parts NA (well not counting the 2.87 pulley or SC) makes a huge difference in response, so combining them with the SC starts getting pretty brutal.
You can clearly understand why people with somewhat stock cars put on the vortech with the 3.33 pulley and are not all that impressed....Even with the 3.12 pulley with stock exhaust, flywheel, gearing etc, you don't seem really thrilled - but you probably just need to get to at least 4000 rpms at WOT a few times to feel the potential of what your car is going to be capable of doing
driving it around normally, from 3000 rpms and below, you only gained about 40 tq over stock. If you had all the NA bolt on parts including cams, you'd also gain 40 tq over stock. The 2.87 pulley would then move the tq curve 500-700 rpms sooner so you'd hit the bigger tq that much earlier in the powerband. A lighter clutch/flywheel will make you naturally drive at higher rpms to avoid the clutch shuttering noise that occurs at 2200 rpms or less unless you're in 1st gear. The 3.9 final drive would naturally raise you 10.7% rpms and give you that much more gear tq so the car will feel more torquey. Anyway, those are the things you can think about for possible future upgrades
I wish my defi gauges had programmable peak lights
That's not a bad dyno at all for basically a bone stock car with the vortech +3.12 pulley. The dyno is spot on to what I'd expect - maybe even 5whp better than I'd normally guess for that setup
you're running the stock clutch too right?
If you had a lighter weight clutch, 2.87 pulley + larger injectors etc, more open exhaust, and maybe the 3.9 final drive, it's a totally different car.
I mean, just adding those parts NA (well not counting the 2.87 pulley or SC) makes a huge difference in response, so combining them with the SC starts getting pretty brutal.
You can clearly understand why people with somewhat stock cars put on the vortech with the 3.33 pulley and are not all that impressed....Even with the 3.12 pulley with stock exhaust, flywheel, gearing etc, you don't seem really thrilled - but you probably just need to get to at least 4000 rpms at WOT a few times to feel the potential of what your car is going to be capable of doing
driving it around normally, from 3000 rpms and below, you only gained about 40 tq over stock. If you had all the NA bolt on parts including cams, you'd also gain 40 tq over stock. The 2.87 pulley would then move the tq curve 500-700 rpms sooner so you'd hit the bigger tq that much earlier in the powerband. A lighter clutch/flywheel will make you naturally drive at higher rpms to avoid the clutch shuttering noise that occurs at 2200 rpms or less unless you're in 1st gear. The 3.9 final drive would naturally raise you 10.7% rpms and give you that much more gear tq so the car will feel more torquey. Anyway, those are the things you can think about for possible future upgrades
I wish my defi gauges had programmable peak lights
Sentry or Booger - With the 2.87 pulley + full non-TD exhaust + plenum spacer + 440cc, how much power would you be making at full boost? Also, is the Vortech FMU + Aux. Pump supplied with the kit enough the handle the 2.87 pulley? Would it be safe for a stock block? Thanks.
#19
04-03-2007, 03:13 AM
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thanks
the 2.87 pulley is fine on the stock block - i'm running mine on the stock block, but the fuel system will need to be upgraded and it's not really a requirement, but I like recommending mixing in some higher octane race gas if you're not able to get more than 91 octane at the pump and/or water/methanol injection.
The injectors and fuel pump will have to be upgraded at the minimum as far as the fuel system. I don't think the 440cc injectors will handle the 2.87 pulley very well so you'll want 550's to play it safe. A lot of people like switching to a return kit, but the vortech system seems to hold up from what I've seen as long as everything is tuned right
I'd expect 30 more tq and 35whp with the 2.87 pulley compared to the 3.12 regardless of whatever exhaust or other mods you run
the 2.87 pulley is fine on the stock block - i'm running mine on the stock block, but the fuel system will need to be upgraded and it's not really a requirement, but I like recommending mixing in some higher octane race gas if you're not able to get more than 91 octane at the pump and/or water/methanol injection.
The injectors and fuel pump will have to be upgraded at the minimum as far as the fuel system. I don't think the 440cc injectors will handle the 2.87 pulley very well so you'll want 550's to play it safe. A lot of people like switching to a return kit, but the vortech system seems to hold up from what I've seen as long as everything is tuned right
I'd expect 30 more tq and 35whp with the 2.87 pulley compared to the 3.12 regardless of whatever exhaust or other mods you run
#20
04-03-2007, 03:29 AM
Originally Posted by sentry65
thanks
the 2.87 pulley is fine on the stock block - i'm running mine on the stock block, but the fuel system will need to be upgraded and it's not really a requirement, but I like recommending mixing in some higher octane race gas if you're not able to get more than 91 octane at the pump and/or water/methanol injection.
The injectors and fuel pump will have to be upgraded at the minimum as far as the fuel system. I don't think the 440cc injectors will handle the 2.87 pulley very well so you'll want 550's to play it safe. A lot of people like switching to a return kit, but the vortech system seems to hold up from what I've seen as long as everything is tuned right
I'd expect 30 more tq and 35whp with the 2.87 pulley compared to the 3.12 regardless of whatever exhaust or other mods you run
the 2.87 pulley is fine on the stock block - i'm running mine on the stock block, but the fuel system will need to be upgraded and it's not really a requirement, but I like recommending mixing in some higher octane race gas if you're not able to get more than 91 octane at the pump and/or water/methanol injection.
The injectors and fuel pump will have to be upgraded at the minimum as far as the fuel system. I don't think the 440cc injectors will handle the 2.87 pulley very well so you'll want 550's to play it safe. A lot of people like switching to a return kit, but the vortech system seems to hold up from what I've seen as long as everything is tuned right
I'd expect 30 more tq and 35whp with the 2.87 pulley compared to the 3.12 regardless of whatever exhaust or other mods you run
Is the upgraded walboro fuel pump necessary? I just don't want that high idle issue with the Walboro. I know I can get a return fuel system, but I think that's overkill for a pretty stock Vortech.
You don't think 440's are going to be enough with the Vortech FMU? I'm going to try to tune pretty conservative and get in the low 400's. The reason I want the 2.87 is because I want more usable torque. I rarely redline my car, and I usually shift at 3-4k, so a nice bump in that region would be nice.
#21
04-03-2007, 03:51 AM
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you might be able to get away with 440's but the fuel pressure is going to be high in the upper rpms at which point you'll need the walbro, I just don't think the stock pump will be up to the task at all at that point
if you never really redline the car, then you can use the 440's and 2.87 with no issue at all. The problem area really is going to be above 5500 rpms where you start potentially running out of fuel. I'd just stick with the stock fuel system and not get a return kit if you don't redline very often or have plans for more power.
Without redlining the car often, then I'd say the fuel octane and water injection are less critical. The water injection will raise your detonation threshold and methanol is dirt cheap and you don't need to refill it very often The kits aren't all that expensive so it might be worth considering at least.
you can always try giving things a shot with the 440's and see where you end up. You sound like you could really benefit from a more aggressive final drive if you're mainly concerned about power in the low/mid region
if you never really redline the car, then you can use the 440's and 2.87 with no issue at all. The problem area really is going to be above 5500 rpms where you start potentially running out of fuel. I'd just stick with the stock fuel system and not get a return kit if you don't redline very often or have plans for more power.
Without redlining the car often, then I'd say the fuel octane and water injection are less critical. The water injection will raise your detonation threshold and methanol is dirt cheap and you don't need to refill it very often The kits aren't all that expensive so it might be worth considering at least.
you can always try giving things a shot with the 440's and see where you end up. You sound like you could really benefit from a more aggressive final drive if you're mainly concerned about power in the low/mid region
Last edited by sentry65; 04-03-2007 at 04:15 AM.
#23
04-03-2007, 04:19 AM
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#24
04-03-2007, 04:34 AM
Originally Posted by sentry65
you might be able to get away with 440's but the fuel pressure is going to be high in the upper rpms at which point you'll need the walbro, I just don't think the stock pump will be up to the task at all at that point
if you never really redline the car, then you can use the 440's and 2.87 with no issue at all. The problem area really is going to be above 5500 rpms where you start potentially running out of fuel. I'd just stick with the stock fuel system and not get a return kit if you don't redline very often or have plans for more power.
Without redlining the car often, then I'd say the fuel octane and water injection are less critical. The water injection will raise your detonation threshold and methanol is dirt cheap and you don't need to refill it very often The kits aren't all that expensive so it might be worth considering at least.
you can always try giving things a shot with the 440's and see where you end up. You sound like you could really benefit from a more aggressive final drive if you're mainly concerned about power in the low/mid region
if you never really redline the car, then you can use the 440's and 2.87 with no issue at all. The problem area really is going to be above 5500 rpms where you start potentially running out of fuel. I'd just stick with the stock fuel system and not get a return kit if you don't redline very often or have plans for more power.
Without redlining the car often, then I'd say the fuel octane and water injection are less critical. The water injection will raise your detonation threshold and methanol is dirt cheap and you don't need to refill it very often The kits aren't all that expensive so it might be worth considering at least.
you can always try giving things a shot with the 440's and see where you end up. You sound like you could really benefit from a more aggressive final drive if you're mainly concerned about power in the low/mid region
Sorry for hi-jacking your thread imalazeeass.
Last edited by Dan_K; 04-03-2007 at 04:37 AM.
#25
04-03-2007, 05:02 AM
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#27
04-05-2007, 12:33 PM
imalazeeass, sorry to hear about that bro. I went thru some bad problems myself not with the install but with the tuning. They were saying the ss box was bad. Ended up buying a 255 fuel pump and paying alot more in tuning. And in the end to realize the tuner may not have really known how to tune correctly a ss box. Glad to see everything turned out good.
Parts that im ordering:
3.12 (or 2.87 after reading this thread?)
440cc injectors w/ clips
aam fuel return basic kit
Utec (if I can sell my nitrous kit, if not use the SS box.)
Want to hit that 400whp mark.
Parts that im ordering:
3.12 (or 2.87 after reading this thread?)
440cc injectors w/ clips
aam fuel return basic kit
Utec (if I can sell my nitrous kit, if not use the SS box.)
Want to hit that 400whp mark.
#28
04-05-2007, 03:30 PM
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#29
04-05-2007, 07:07 PM
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incase anyone is interested, heres a pic of my engine with the new cf engine cover. I had to cut the corner of it so that it fits with the sc! Took about 10 min of cutting. Turned out nice. And i also took a pic of where the catch can was mounted.
Last edited by imalazeeass; 04-05-2007 at 07:09 PM.