My last setup was APS ST, *UniChip* (terrible) 3 Guages, Aps exhaust, Jim Wolf Clutch & Flywheel(no good) get RPS ... and thats it, went the cheap way you know. Made 418 rwhp / 364 ft.lbs on a Dynapack at 9 psi on a very hot day 98 *F in Delaware. I had an issues with the scavenger pump it flooded by intercooler, intake, turbo, exhaust with oil. I would imagine that helped me very well to blow it all up lol.

To the thread starter -> I have researched over 4 hours a day on my350z, g35driver, talked to many good shops over the past year & finally my new g35 is in the shop gettin Greddy Twin * NO BUILT BLOCK* just many supportings mods to help the setup.

 

how many months before the engine blew? I bet you were tuned to 98F and tuned a bit aggressive then when the weather got a lot colder (N. East problem) you leaned out. Did you?

 

Wow. You are going with the GReddy TT and not building your engine? You better get a REALLY good tune. If I ever blow my engine (*knocking on wood*), the next one will definitely be reinforced. Why take the chance of blowing another engine? Unless you are gonna tune the GReddy for 400whp or less, you really should build your block.

 

Shady, how's the stock block holding up with those Greddy Twins?

 

I drove for a year at 8psi (405hp/399tw) on Greddy twins and a stock block. No problems at all.

The only reason I built the motor was for more power.

 

ttrank, can you give a mileage #, rough estimate, rather than saying "a year"? i think we all drive way diff amounts per year

 

theres no reason not to run a low boost wastegate spring and not feel 100% safe about any size turbo on a stock motor.

I never understand why people say TT's are less safe than a SC. Its the retards that tune the cars that make them less safe. dont be ashamed to ask for a 4 psi wastegate spring if you are nervous. believe me, after 6 months with a SC you'll want a turbo kit. thats why there are soooo many for sale!

 

25k miles JWT TT with no motor problems here.

 

Str8dum1, are you going to switch out your Vortech for a T/TT setup soon?

That's definitely good to know! What kind of tune are you running to keep your motor safe?

 

^sounds like you have a lot of researching to do

 

like everyone else, thats the plan. economy is so crappy right now, dumping 15g's into a motor and TT setup might not be best use of that money though.

 

Not sure what RWHP #s you are putting down but here is another q I have for ya:

my jwt tt is sitting in my garage now, ill be installing it in may. my goal is to tune for 375 rwhp to keep things safe and reliable compared to some of the other people that push 400-425 on stock internals.

So my question is which option is smarter:
1-have my plenum spaced and a nice free-flowing exhaust and adjust the wastegate spring to open at a lower psi in order to stay at a reasonable HP level

2- run the normal 7 psi of boost from the kit but don't get other supporting upgrades in order to keep my HP numbers low

I'd assume number 1 would be better because it would put less strain on the engine?

(This is all based on my impression that the JWT TT kit, with option #1, would be able to put out higher than 375 RWHP in the first place )

 

I'm at 355rwhp right now, it's on wastegate springs. I wouldn't go any higher with the stock motor. Honestly, if you are really worried about blowing your motor I would simply just put on the kit and leave it at that. It isn't worth the 10 or 20 extra hp you might get. Just keep it around 370 and I think you'll be fine.

That 355rwhp is with a track day, and 5 or 6 autocrosses. On the track my temp gauge was pegged to the top and that was over a year ago. It is my daily driver. I plan on going back to the track next month too.

 

I abused my car with APS TT and pre-tune UniChip OTB for a year and a half. Was fine and dandy. Then I bent a rod. Then I built the motor. Then bought a plethora of supporting mods including another EMS (HKS F-con iS) and retuning. D: The g laid down 500 rwhp / 500 lbs. I still abuse her and she loves it.

The bug is highly addictive and if you can control yourself, I suggest going with Vortech. Unfortunately for me, I don't know when to stop and will continue to mod my the g until the gas tank blows up.

 

It's all about power under the curve. From around 5-7k (most common RPM's for WOT), the turbo's should have a slightly fatter powerband. And therefore, be making more average hp throughout the powerband. But its not as large as the difference between 2-5k ; that's when turbo's have a huge advantage. With that much more power at low rpm's, less downshifting would be required when exiting a turn around a circuit track.