Sorry for jacking the thread but what's up with all the bunny avatars?

 

https://g35driver.com/forums/lounge-off-topic/186882-bunny-galore.html
https://g35driver.com/forums/southern-california/186752-my-bunny-your-bunny.html

 

+1

There is something else wrong there. Your car should be able to idle fine with 750's.

 

Does anyone have a graph showing the target A/F ratio from idle to 7000RPM?

 

don't have one on hand, but search...once you hit boost, anywhere from 11.5-12 until redline depending on how aggressive the tune is and if the block is built or not. For a non-built block, I would say low to mid 11's from full boost to redline, dipping into the upper 10's just before redline for safety.

 

Here's my old dyno sheet. I don't have the most recent one scanned but here you can see my a/f ratio at the bottom. It's pretty steady betweem 10 to about 11.5 the whole way through.

 

Here's one with a little more space:

 

Wouldn't that depend on his ecu management? ie. if he's using an unit that can scale for diff injectors?

 

I'm on stock injectors and the fuel pump that comes with the JWT kit and constantly at 14.6-14.8, unless I'm going WOT then it is usually 10-11. So just get a fuel pump and you should be good.

 

Excellent! Thanks for the graphs; they clear things up nicely. I'm using the E-Manage Ultimate and have complete reconfigurability on the A/F. If it should be 10-11 from 3K RPM and up, I'll make it that way. I just can't get enough fuel in there right now, but my new pump is on the way.

 

Not necessarily... the UTEC can't scale injectors for chit. The Ultimate does a pretty good job, but the real way to scale is to set the fuel trims in the ECU by driving around. The ECU will learn and you can add/subtract to get the fuel trims down to "0". You need to watch out for the short term fuel trims and the long term for each bank. It's a pretty time consuming process to get it done correctly.

Something just doesn't add up with Sinister350GT though. His sig says built motor, greddy, 600+ whp, and FCON V-PRO. There's only a handful of tuners that are licensed to sell/tune it and none would let a car leave with such a pig rich idle And the FCON does a great job of scaling injectors so I'm a bit confused, unless he miss-spoke.

 

So you're tuning your own car? It's not that simple man...yes, you can set the fuel, etc. but you're not going to get the best out of your tune. You need to strap it on a dyno and do runs so you know when to pull/advance timing and add/remove fuel. It's a combination of timing and fuel, not just fuel. What are you going to do if you get knock? Do you have a knock amp? Do you know how much timing to pull? etc, etc...There's a reason there are good tuners, and great tuners....It's not a simple task and I do NOT suggest you do it on your own unless you really know what you're doing.

Not to mention, the Greddy kit blew a lot of motors when it first came out because people weren't familiar with how to tune the VQ motor. I suggest you bring it to a local tuner and get it done properly or you may be rebuilding a motor very soon

 

I did take it to a local tuner and tuned on a dyno. I wasn't that impressed with the guy though because he just adjusted fuel and didn't even look at the timing. I was afraid to leave it there too long. I knew something would have to be done about the fuel, so I'll take it to a better shop once the pump is in. (If I can even find another shop in BC.)

 

First advice, get at least UTEC and stay away from a piggyback, IMHO.

Getting your Fuel right can be done on the street. There is no one who will put more time in your car but yourself, so if you are up to the challenge then learn to tune your car. Fuel can be done easily without any dyno as long as you have a Wideband and some good logging software.

Timing is a little tricky so you need a Dyno for that. You can still tune your timing curve on the street by advancing 2-3 deg at a time and when you hit knock then back of your timing a few deg. You need at least an EGT gauge on the street. When you pull to much timing, your EGT also rises so pulling timing doesn't always mean it is a good thing. It is tricky coz only in the dyno that you will see if adding timing really does add power, there is no point of adding some timing if there is no added power benefit.

On my stock motor, at around 1-2 psi, I'm ok running on low 12's and as I hit some good boost (4-5psi) then I like my A/f to be around 11.6-11.3. At full boost around 8psi, I want my A/F to be around 11.1. Also you want your timing around peak TQ to be the lowest and as your TQ goes down then you can start adding some timing.

Edit:
My # are for a 93 octane gas so if you are running 91 then I would go a little richer and less timing. 11.1 A/F at full boost is already conservative so I'll run 10.9-11.1 on a 91 octane.

 

Can't go UTEC - I tried that first. The plug on my ECU is different because it was an early 03 (major bummer). I had to go E-Manage because it was a "splice in".

The logging software on the E-Manage is pretty good, but there doesn't seem to be an A/F log feature. Everything else is there. My Autometer Nexus gauges do have a logging feature, but I haven't tried it to see what the data looks like.

I would sure like to find a "reputable" tuner in BC, Seattle or Northern Washington - Any suggestions?