I've used both the K&N and the OEM and both work very well.

 

Just put in some Amsoil 0w-30 last night

 

To recap, here is what we have so far. People who use two kind of oils have been counted as 1 for both.

? 20w-50 -> 1
Amsoil 0w-30 -> 1
Amsoil 5w-30 -> 1
Amsoil 10w-40 -> 2
Castrol Syntec 5w-30 -> 2
Mobil1 0W-40 -> 6
Mobil1 15w-50 -> 1
Mobil1 5w-30 -> 1
RedlLine 5w-30 -> 2
Royal Purple 10w-30 -> 1

 

motul

 

Which one? either way for street... Over rated but on a TRACK and FULL RACE then good... But who drives WOT 100% of the time? Check Quadcam's result and comment on the first page.

 

XPR — Extreme Performance and Racing oils combines the highest quality synthetic base oil, Royal Purple’s proprietary Synerlec additive technology and additional performance enhancers to create a lubricant that maximizes horsepower and torque, while providing the highest level of protection against heat and wear. XPR provides more protection than conventional motor oils — mineral or synthetic — including those combined with aftermarket additives.

See our transmission lubricant cross reference chart for specific applications.

XPR 0W10 is an ultra-light viscosity motor oil formulated for gasoline engines used in drag racing, motorcycle sprint racing, etc.

XPR 5W20 is a light viscosity motor oil formulated to withstand exotic fuels such as alcohol, methanol and nitrous oxide (NO2). Excellent for drag racing.

XPR 5W30 works well in a variety of applications from oval track late models to bracket racing. It is extremely versatile and produces excellent horsepower while preventing wear.

XPR 10W40 is designed for marine, oval track and endurance car racing. Capable of withstanding long intervals of extreme heat, it works especially well with alcohol and methanol. It is extremely popular in sprint cars, late models and World of Outlaws racing.

XPR 20W50 is formulated for running extended periods under extreme pressure and heat. It is used in oval track, marine and drag racing and is very popular in sprint cars, late models, truck pullers and bracket racing.


Sprint 360 / 410 Gasoline XPR 5W30

Sprint 360 / 410 Methanol XPR 10W40

Pro Cup / ASA XPR 5W30

Busch / Cup Short Track (e.g. Bristol) XPR 5W30

Busch / Cup Super Speedway (e.g. Talladega) XPR 10W40, 20W50

Busch / Cup Qualifying Racing 2008

Dirt Modified XPR 10W40

Allison Legends / Legacy XPR 5W30

Midgets XPR 5W30, 10W40

Rotary XPR 5W30

Grand AM / SCCA XPR 5W30, 10W40, 20W50

Porsche, air-cooled XPR 20W50

Porsche, liquid-cooled XPR 5W30

Manual Transmissions make / model specific shart

Import Engines Naturally Aspirated < 7500 RPM XPR 5W20

Import Engines Naturally Aspirated > 7500 RPM XPR 0W106

Import Engines Forced Induction / N20 XPR 10W40

Import Engines Naturally Aspirated Methanol XPR 5W20

Import Engines Forced Induction + Methanol Nitro Plus 50

Domestic Engines - Small Block

Naturally Aspirated < 7000 RPM XPR 5W30
Naturally Aspirated > 7000 RPM XPR 5W20, 0W106
Forced Induction / N20 XPR 10W40, 20W50
Naturally Aspirated Methanol XPR 5W20, 10W40
Forced Induction / N20 + Methanol Nitro Plus 60
Domestic Engines - Big Block

Naturally Aspirated < 7000 RPM Solid Lift XPR 5W20
Naturally Aspirated < 7000 RPM Hydraulic Lift XPR 5W30
Naturally Aspirated > 7000 RPM XPR 5W20
Forced Induction / N20 XPR 20W50
Naturally Aspirated Methanol XPR 10W40
Forced Induction / N20 + Methanol Nitro Plus 60
Nitro Methane Nitro Plus 70, 80
Jr. Dragster Gasoline Engines XPR 0W10

Jr. Dragster Methanol Engines XPR 5W20

Differentials < 800 ft / lb torque Max-Gear 75W90

Differentials > 800 ft / lb torque Max-Gear 75W140

Transmissions G-Force / Liberty Synchromax

Transmissions Powerglide Max ATF

Transmissions C4, C6 Racing ATF

Transmissions TH350, TH400 Max ATF

 

huh?

Are you saying you use XPR? If so, which weight?

 

Every oil respond differently to every Engine... A proven Formula 1 Oil or All out Race Oil might be good for Racing but my not be good for daily driving (The very expensive Motul For Example). The Oil Thread that Resolute has on MY350Z are actual real DATA on VQ, I'll take that over any recommendation on the Web since that is particular to our Engine.

 

I see that my oil results have already made their way into this thread.
I am currently running Rotella T-Syn 5W40 in my stock block twin turbo G. As mentioned earlier, I was running Motul 300V 5W40, but wasn't please with the wear metals shown in my oil analysis..especially at $75 for oil (each change). I was suggested to try the Rotella, and am very pleased with the results. As you can see in the other post of my results, the lead content was sky high, but that was due to me running some leaded race gas!!!

 

turbo not installed yet but once its on i will prob be doing the XPR 20w-50

 

Yes, your results saved me from going with motul! Seems like Mobil1 0w-40 is the most popular oil so far, with good results for FI applications, just a little bit high on the Iron, and your results with the Rotella T-Syn speak for themselves (except for the lead from your race gas )

So it seems the FI community has at the very least these two oils that have been shown to give good results I know Resolute prefers not to recommend any oil for all FI people because he doesn't have enough data and because of the variations from one setup to the next, but this is better than nothing!

 

300v 10w40, yah its probably overated but ide rather spend a lil extra money and if my engine blows i wont be kicking myself for being a cheap bastard who didnt want to pay 25$ extra every 3000 miles. plus i need to use it for the warrenty on the block, cant really complain and especially with the oil consumption issues on the 06 mt revups, might as well use the good stuff.

 

The problem is that it is probably doing more harm than help protect your Engine on Street Driving! Why would you pay more for an Oil that don't do its job? Look at Quadcam's Result, Rotella and M1 0W40 has far better result than the Motul .. Motul is good if you only TRACK your car and Temp can really go high. Motul can withstand more heat but what about your Cold Start or daily driving that you do a lot of turning off/on your car? Hey it is your money and motor. If GTM think M1 0W40 is good enough then it is good enough for me. By they way I didn't just listen to them, I did my on test/analysis, I suggest you do the same if you are worried about your motor

 

There are several types of Motul, 300v is an expensive race oil which uses less deturgents than say Motul 8100 exess which is much cheaper than the Motul 300V. Are castrol Syntech and Mobile 1 true synthetics I dont belive but definition they are I know europe has stricter guide lines than North America and they do not allow them to be called Synthetics. I use the Motul 8100 exess due to Castrol and Mobile 1 not being true synthetics due to the base stock they are made from. I am going to my first analisis done in the spring.

 

20weight oil is probably too thick.

from what i understand the vq has many small oil passageways/runners and perfers thinner oil weights. ie: 10 or less

i normally use M1 5/30 in the winter & 10/30 summer