I hate saying this, but I'm predicting some blown engines by people who get Si-trim's in the future...maybe not from anyone who's got one so far, but from people wanting to go the "easy route" and slap the SI-trim on their lightly modded car without taking extra precautions. I'm sure the people with them now will get good results, but when the less educated people see the results, they'll want one without really knowing what they're getting themselves into

The Si-trim seems great, and a hell of a lot more powerful than the SC-trim. Without a good flowing exhaust setup, good EMS, water/meth injection and/or higher octane gas, and maybe oil cooler, I'd be a little nervous about using an Si-Trim on a stock block unless you really backed it off.

From what we know so far, it seems like the Si-trim is almost like throwing a 50-60 shot of nitrous on top of the normal SC-trim. The power will hit earlier and reaching much higher peak tq numbers and IMO will be much more likely to kill an engine than a turbo will. Not only will it be hitting the tq numbers of a turbo, but the engine's going to have extra parasitic loss on top of it making the engine work harder than it would with a turbo.

I could be totally wrong, but given that we've seen with 400whp turbos with UTEC's blowing engines a lot, and one person who had a stock engine with a T-trim with an FconV-pro and ran 109 octane gas blew his engine after 10 minutes at the track makes me think the tq the Si-trim is likely capable of can do damage to the unsuspecting people looking for "easy power"

Great points Sentry. It would be very advisable to have a reputable shop monitoring and tuning the Si trim. I wouldn't even be considering the Si trim if I hadn't spoken to GTM first.

The SI looks promising, but I also wouldn't run it on a stock block unless I was being ultra-conservative on the power & tune.

congrats on the upgrade

I won't consider it until I build my engine, but then again, 19 psi is alot.

Ohh i agree. if theses blowers are really doin 16+ psi at redline with a 2.87 pulley, there will be some popped motors (knock on wood!!!). thats why I am in no rush to get on it yet without a fuel pressure gauge and an updated tuen from what JT at PF did.

ya, for now, the easy fix is maybe going to 3.12 pulley or just lower my rev-limiter. heck, might even try the 3.33 pulley when i get it dynod just for kicks.

I've been looking into a meth kit. JT didnt really recommend one bc if you run out you can be screwed. this isnt my DD and I dont run WOT/redline much at all. I think having the meth kit would be a nice safety net. Would really just have to stay on top of keeping the reservoir full and install a low level light on the dash.

I mainly went with the 2.87 pulley to start with bc it shifts the HP/torque curve to the left some. Since I am not an aggro hi-rev kinda driver, it suits me to have more power sooner (without going to a turbo )

I'm working on determining at what point a RFS is needed as well. I have to orer my fuel pressure gauge in the next few days.

refilling the water/meth really isn't a big deal and you can tell when you're low either by looking at the canister or if you have warning low warning lights. I use my stock windshield wiper fluid tank and probably refill it once every 1.5 months or so. I can tell when I'm running low way before the stock low wiper fluid light comes on. I drive about 70-80 miles a week with plenty of WOT to redline.


I gonna bet you end up needing a RFS with the Si-trim

I have the Aquamist water/meth kit and it comes with a gauge that has a warning light. So the only way that you will run out is if you are not paying attention. I use the windshield wiper reservoir too and I have yet to have to refill it. Of course, I don't go WOT very often but you would have to be on it all of the time to run out quickly.

actually I just put it in my routine where I check my oil level every couple weeks

just pour some water/meth in and top the tank back off. Not a big deal and quick/easy to do.

I've only had it get a little low once and I knew it was low while driving because the LED would keep flashing on when going over bumps or turning because of the sloshing. I just switched to my less aggressive map and used that until I got back home. I hadn't run out of water, but knew it might slosh and not spray consistently

Semtry
Who had the T-trim and a F-con on a stock motor ? Wasnt any one on this site , nor My350 . We would have known about it . Did someone just tell you about this ?

As you to guys have water/meth kits installed I am assuming that both of you have 2 maps? Are the numbers you have listed (sentry in your sig and Hex in the list we have going) on the low map or map 2 with the water/meth kicking in.

I have a second map but have to use 100 octane which is hard to find so I am wondering if the kit would be a better option to utilize this second map, I mean it's not as if I need an extra 30+hp but you never know.

2003 Nissan 350Z

13 psi
Vortech T-Trim kit
CJM Stage 1 Fuel System
HKS FCon VPro Standalone EMs
Innovate! LC-1 Wideband
HKS I.A.T. Sensor
GTM Pulley Modification
GTM Cold Air intake modification
RC 750cc Injectors
Oil Cooler

http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=292534

you even posted in the thread a bunch...

he took the car to the track like a couple weeks later and broke a rod after just 10 minutes of driving using his aggressive map with 109 octane.
He did not have a permanent knock amp installed or EGT compensation.
He was pissed, but I'm not so surprised it happened. I wouldn't be really surprised if my engine blew on the track, but I think my car would have a better chance at surviving it with all the precautions I've taken

IMO 13 psi is probably too much for the stock block on the track unless maybe if you're on a REVUP engine

yeah the water/meth can help serve as a replacement for 100 octane. It's not the same as running 100 octane though so you're going to have to get a new tune - or two. Methanol is around 105-107 octane


I have 2 maps

455whp and 370 tq
477whp and 383 tq

I use the 477whp map when the weather is cold and the 455 when it's hot

my water/meth kit is always on to spray when going WOT. I don't ever shut it off or anything.

I run a mix of 91 and 101 octane all the time
If I ran on a roadcourse, I'd use straight up 101 and my 455whp map
If I were to run at a drag strip, I'd use my 477whp map with my normal 91/101 octane mix

I actually only have one map. So the numbers on the list (which I need to update cuz my torque went up) are based on the current conservative tune with the water/meth kit.

Gotcha, so none of you guys run on straight 91 octane? Just trying to see how much hp I can pick up by just going w/m and not doing anything else for now.
Still planning on doing more work but buying some time.

Sorry for going off topic OP.