Vortech Rattle
going with a smaller supercharger pulley will also reduce the noise and spin the blower faster.
I don't think it'd be enough to completely kill it though like raising the idle would
I don't think it'd be enough to completely kill it though like raising the idle would
Last edited by sentry65; May 19, 2008 at 04:18 PM.
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Originally Posted by sentry65
going with a smaller supercharger pulley will also reduce the noise. I don't think it'd be enough to completely kill it though like raising the idle would
+1 Smaller pulley - more boost - less rattle!
Originally Posted by ForcFed
What supporting mods do I need to go one pulley smaller? Currently only have a Borla cat-back.
It is normal, I usually left / right foot at lights to bring my rpms to 800 which gets rid of it. No need to worry, I now have 50K miles on my blower and no problems at all... I had the rattle from day one of install as well. No mods needed to go to a smaller pulley really, I put on the 3.12 from the 1st day as well with no issues at all and I am thinking of putting the 2.8 pulley on sometime soon which I have sitting in my garage... I have a meth kit as well but have not installed that yet either.
Is this the rattle you talk about? If so, TOTALLY normal.. this is my vortech video and it was taken about 2 days after i installed it. I raised my idle to 900 and its fine now.
why there is Vortech gravel noise
I am looking into FI for my car. I have been doing some research on this issue and emailed vortech about it...no reply. The vortech supercharges is basically a pump. So there are lots of things that effect the opperation of a pump. A pump does not "suck" it creates a difference in pressure. If we use the same principals as a centrifical pump, other then the fluid is a gas rather then a liquid. I figure this "noise" is one of the following:
1)Some type of cavitation in the system on either the suction side or discharge.
2) The "pump" not operating in its Best Efficiency Points (BEP). All pumps have a pump curve where the best opperation is between 2 point on efficiency curve. Operation outside of the BEP produces cavitation. Increaseing the RPM moves the pump up it's BEP curve to produce a higher flowrate therefore reducing the "noise"
3) Bearing clearence issues
The reason I figure it 1 of the above is because I troubleshoot industrial equipment for a living and that gravel sound you hear is usually a sign of caviation of the pump opperating out of its BEP...I could be wrong but I cant find anther good answer for this
1)Some type of cavitation in the system on either the suction side or discharge.
2) The "pump" not operating in its Best Efficiency Points (BEP). All pumps have a pump curve where the best opperation is between 2 point on efficiency curve. Operation outside of the BEP produces cavitation. Increaseing the RPM moves the pump up it's BEP curve to produce a higher flowrate therefore reducing the "noise"
3) Bearing clearence issues
The reason I figure it 1 of the above is because I troubleshoot industrial equipment for a living and that gravel sound you hear is usually a sign of caviation of the pump opperating out of its BEP...I could be wrong but I cant find anther good answer for this
My 05 G35 coupe is set up with a Vortech and and smaller pulley. The pulley did help take away the rattle some. Then I got a new twin disk clutch that makes all kinds of noise at idle. The car loves 10 - 27 degrees. Sounds Jet Solid. But above 50 degrees and after a 10 minute warm up, I will hear some noise.
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