Coolant Eliminator Kit by DM2 Motorsport
Originally Posted by ttrank
I have the Pathfinder cooling mod. How hard would it be to do something like this but keep that pipe that has the other thermostat?
Shouldnt be a problem at all. Let us know what you need.
you can just take the stock one off and have it welded shut...and plug the drivers side to the bypass hose
a better option is to do the pathfinder coolant mod though...i know you can buy those at Z1
a better option is to do the pathfinder coolant mod though...i know you can buy those at Z1
This is different than a pathfinder mod, I have a pathfinder mod and removed all the extra hoses. You need a little understanding of the cooling system and a TIG welder. No "kit" required.
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Joined: Mar 2018
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You're removing 4 unnecessary lines.
The oil cooler line, this is the small line that connects to the thermostat goes to the sandwich plate by the oil filter and up under the passenger side pipe. This has the most junk that comes with it, a hard pipe that runs underneath the compressor and a bunch of hose. It is "supposed" to cool your oil. Seems to me it heats the oil more than it cools. HR motors do not have this anymore.
The radiator/therm bypass line, the one that goes across the front of the motor, this is where your water circulates when your thermostat is not open. Helps your motor warm up quicker, but living in Florida, pointless to me.
The throttlebody warmer, being in Florida again this line is irrelevant, if anything its heating up my IAT's. Its the one that people usually just take off the manifold and connect together using a small fitting that sells for like 20 bucks for a fitting you could buy at home depot for less than 2 dollars.
And the last useless line is the rear bypass line, its on the rear coolant pipe, comes off and goes to the small port connected to the heater feed line. Does absolutely nothing, not connected to any sensors, doesn't warm or cool anything.
Even if I don't use the freed up space from losing all the clutter, its just less places where stuff can leak so its a good mod in my book.
The oil cooler line, this is the small line that connects to the thermostat goes to the sandwich plate by the oil filter and up under the passenger side pipe. This has the most junk that comes with it, a hard pipe that runs underneath the compressor and a bunch of hose. It is "supposed" to cool your oil. Seems to me it heats the oil more than it cools. HR motors do not have this anymore.
The radiator/therm bypass line, the one that goes across the front of the motor, this is where your water circulates when your thermostat is not open. Helps your motor warm up quicker, but living in Florida, pointless to me.
The throttlebody warmer, being in Florida again this line is irrelevant, if anything its heating up my IAT's. Its the one that people usually just take off the manifold and connect together using a small fitting that sells for like 20 bucks for a fitting you could buy at home depot for less than 2 dollars.
And the last useless line is the rear bypass line, its on the rear coolant pipe, comes off and goes to the small port connected to the heater feed line. Does absolutely nothing, not connected to any sensors, doesn't warm or cool anything.
Even if I don't use the freed up space from losing all the clutter, its just less places where stuff can leak so its a good mod in my book.
sorry to revive a 20 year old thread but noticed this set up has a discrepancy.
"The radiator/therm bypass line, the one that goes across the front of the motor, this is where your water circulates when your thermostat is not open. Helps your motor warm up quicker, but living in Florida, pointless to me."
that bypass goes to the bottom port of the inlet. The bottom port feeds directly to the back of the thermostat. In order for this to work properly, you need to switch the inlets and plug the top, not the bottom. If using this as a return for turbo coolant, tap the top for a 3/8 npt x 3/8 barb for a 6an line coming from turbos.
sorry to revive a 20 year old thread but noticed this set up has a discrepancy.
"The radiator/therm bypass line, the one that goes across the front of the motor, this is where your water circulates when your thermostat is not open. Helps your motor warm up quicker, but living in Florida, pointless to me."
that bypass goes to the bottom port of the inlet. The bottom port feeds directly to the back of the thermostat. In order for this to work properly, you need to switch the inlets and plug the top, not the bottom. If using this as a return for turbo coolant, tap the top for a 3/8 npt x 3/8 barb for a 6an line coming from turbos.
"The radiator/therm bypass line, the one that goes across the front of the motor, this is where your water circulates when your thermostat is not open. Helps your motor warm up quicker, but living in Florida, pointless to me."
that bypass goes to the bottom port of the inlet. The bottom port feeds directly to the back of the thermostat. In order for this to work properly, you need to switch the inlets and plug the top, not the bottom. If using this as a return for turbo coolant, tap the top for a 3/8 npt x 3/8 barb for a 6an line coming from turbos.
!Are you doing a turbo build on your G?
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Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 4
Likes: 2
Built de twins
finishing up the build on a 350. While building motor, I used this as reference to delete coolant lines. After having negative results with cooling, I realized this set up is incorrect. I welded all the ports already so will need to drill and retap where needed. Just wanted to give a heads up to anyone in the future looking to delete coolant lines as the op is incorrect.
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