How much power can the Automatic take???
I've had the GTM ValveBody with my OEM transmission. It is definitely recommended.
However, just a valvebody, no matter how good it is, has its limits as well. I fried my OEM transmission a few months ago and have been running on GTM's complete Stage 3 transmission since. No problems.
However, just a valvebody, no matter how good it is, has its limits as well. I fried my OEM transmission a few months ago and have been running on GTM's complete Stage 3 transmission since. No problems.
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 786
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From: Sugar Land TX/Boca Raton FL/Carefree AZ
Originally Posted by PearlG35x
I was thinking of a single or twin turbo.. but i have the Automatic X.. i was wondering if the Automatic can take it? or would i just run into problems...
Originally Posted by SupG35
So, which shop would you guys recommend or "prefer"? I was thinking about Stillen or GTM? I'm in Socal and plan on doing my own removal/install on the valve body and drop it off at their location to reduce less down time. I'll leave the modify of the valve body to the pros. Thanks in advance.
Not sure what you mean by saving on the down time since the car cannot be driven without the VB. As a matter of fact, it's probably better to let the shop pull it.
This story might sound familiar to some of us here, but if a shop messes it up, the $1K cost for a replacement VB is on them. If you do the work and are even possibly at fault for it not working right, there will be no warranty.
Originally Posted by terrycs
Most seem to prefer the GTM upgrade. As far as I know, they use the Trans-Go kit and do some other value added stuff to the passages.
Not sure what you mean by saving on the down time since the car cannot be driven without the VB. As a matter of fact, it's probably better to let the shop pull it.
This story might sound familiar to some of us here, but if a shop messes it up, the $1K cost for a replacement VB is on them. If you do the work and are even possibly at fault for it not working right, there will be no warranty.
Not sure what you mean by saving on the down time since the car cannot be driven without the VB. As a matter of fact, it's probably better to let the shop pull it.
This story might sound familiar to some of us here, but if a shop messes it up, the $1K cost for a replacement VB is on them. If you do the work and are even possibly at fault for it not working right, there will be no warranty.
Been driving the car since 69k and now have 107k....no issues so far.
Originally Posted by terrycs
Most seem to prefer the GTM upgrade. As far as I know, they use the Trans-Go kit and do some other value added stuff to the passages.
Not sure what you mean by saving on the down time since the car cannot be driven without the VB. As a matter of fact, it's probably better to let the shop pull it.
This story might sound familiar to some of us here, but if a shop messes it up, the $1K cost for a replacement VB is on them. If you do the work and are even possibly at fault for it not working right, there will be no warranty.
Not sure what you mean by saving on the down time since the car cannot be driven without the VB. As a matter of fact, it's probably better to let the shop pull it.
This story might sound familiar to some of us here, but if a shop messes it up, the $1K cost for a replacement VB is on them. If you do the work and are even possibly at fault for it not working right, there will be no warranty.
Originally Posted by SupG35
Yeah, I know, but I don't want to have my car sitting for a week or more. I was hoping on dropping off the valve body in the morning and maybe have it back the next day or two. Taken out the valve body shouldn't be too hard, I hope. The Stillen website show you step by step on the removal.
"The slightest damage can render the valve body and the transmission unusable. As replacement valve bodies are unavailable, we insure (as you should when sending the unit in) each valve body shipment for the cost of an installed replacement transmission and limited rental car use."
Heat kills the transmission. Anyone spending any $$$ on power mods should have a $30 temp sensor placed in line with the ATF cooler lines!
My GTM-5AT stage 3 would not last long in the mountains - tried it at ZdayZ and I'm glad I had a temp gauge on there. I had to sit and let it cool every 20 mins or so...
(yes, I have a big TC right behind the IC but when the temp passed 240 degF, I felt that was pushing the limits of the synthetic fluid).
Around town, it's not an issue. Drag racing, it's not an issue. Under load constantly, and the high slip TC heats up that fluid quickly!!!
Keep temp control in mind, drain and fill the fluid every 6k miles, and it'll last even with tons of torque going through it.
My GTM-5AT stage 3 would not last long in the mountains - tried it at ZdayZ and I'm glad I had a temp gauge on there. I had to sit and let it cool every 20 mins or so...
(yes, I have a big TC right behind the IC but when the temp passed 240 degF, I felt that was pushing the limits of the synthetic fluid).Around town, it's not an issue. Drag racing, it's not an issue. Under load constantly, and the high slip TC heats up that fluid quickly!!!
Keep temp control in mind, drain and fill the fluid every 6k miles, and it'll last even with tons of torque going through it.
Screw a Vb upgrade and tq converter, I'll sell you my whole tranny with the vb upgrade and tq converter already installed, tranny has 29k miles on it only also. PM SENT!
Originally Posted by HomieG35
Superchargers typically make less torque than turbos, as well as the superchargers giving you that "naturally aspired" feel as the boost biulds instead of a sudden burst of power when boost hits at a given RPM with a turbo.
Mr pharmD is right though, once the 5AT gets in the 400wtq area the tranny won't hold up to much abuse... and that figure is really easy to hit with a turbo system. A good valvebody upgrade will be key!!
Get the FI of your choice, respect it, but know in the back of your mind that at any time something could go wrong. So before things break you should go ahead and start upgrading once the power adder is on there... it'll be a battle in the beginning - but fun!
Mr pharmD is right though, once the 5AT gets in the 400wtq area the tranny won't hold up to much abuse... and that figure is really easy to hit with a turbo system. A good valvebody upgrade will be key!!
Get the FI of your choice, respect it, but know in the back of your mind that at any time something could go wrong. So before things break you should go ahead and start upgrading once the power adder is on there... it'll be a battle in the beginning - but fun!
But what happens when you do the VB and the tranny still overheats?
Originally Posted by rcdash
Heat kills the transmission. Anyone spending any $$$ on power mods should have a $30 temp sensor placed in line with the ATF cooler lines!
My GTM-5AT stage 3 would not last long in the mountains - tried it at ZdayZ and I'm glad I had a temp gauge on there. I had to sit and let it cool every 20 mins or so... (yes, I have a big TC right behind the IC but when the temp passed 240 degF, I felt that was pushing the limits of the synthetic fluid).
Around town, it's not an issue. Drag racing, it's not an issue. Under load constantly, and the high slip TC heats up that fluid quickly!!!
Keep temp control in mind, drain and fill the fluid every 6k miles, and it'll last even with tons of torque going through it.
My GTM-5AT stage 3 would not last long in the mountains - tried it at ZdayZ and I'm glad I had a temp gauge on there. I had to sit and let it cool every 20 mins or so...
(yes, I have a big TC right behind the IC but when the temp passed 240 degF, I felt that was pushing the limits of the synthetic fluid).Around town, it's not an issue. Drag racing, it's not an issue. Under load constantly, and the high slip TC heats up that fluid quickly!!!
Keep temp control in mind, drain and fill the fluid every 6k miles, and it'll last even with tons of torque going through it.
Originally Posted by Asad_A203
I know you have a built tranny but would a VB 5AT with a cooler fan be sufficient in support around 500-520 RWHP/TQ for a couple runs and say DD at 450?