Forced Induction Discussion of turbos , superchargers , and nitrous upgrades on the G35

Seeking Experienced Advice - Components Selection, Fortifying Stock Internals, etc.

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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 09:15 PM
  #16  
Gian124's Avatar
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Yeah, the one hesitation I had with VinnyTen was that they don't really deal with Greddy kits... or at least per their webpage. Also, they are quite a commute compared to the other two *local* shops... just not too sure on the experience from either of these two shops (haven't heard much on either G or Z forum other than their existence).



Additionally, missing a little info if anyone can chime in on this:
What driving habbits or conditions put the most stress on a Forced Induction engine (e.g. High RPM Engine Braking?)
 
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Gian124

Additionally, missing a little info if anyone can chime in on this:
What driving habbits or conditions put the most stress on a Forced Induction engine (e.g. High RPM Engine Braking?)

Extended period WOT runs (top speed hiway pulls) kill alot of FI engines.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 04:10 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Gian124
What driving habbits or conditions put the most stress on a Forced Induction engine (e.g. High RPM Engine Braking?)
A motor gets alot of stress any time you hit peak torque or extremely high rpm. Alot of motors fail when peak torque is reached. In my last build, I lost two rod bearings because I way, way over-rev'd the motor doing a WOT shift when the rev limiter did not kick in.

So, any driving conditions that create those conditions is where you have to be carefull. With a FI motor, on launch our wheels usually will break loose before the peak torque is reached. This is not necessarily the case with top speed highway pulls, which is why alot of motors fail there as indicated by Sylvan Lake V35. On a stock motor, this is where I would expect a rod failure to occur.

Your best insurance is to get a built short block. A very cost effective short block is Import Part Pro's Stage 1 ($2,600). It will server you well.

http://www.importpartspro.com/st1blon.html

There are a number of other vendors on this forum that sell stage 1 short blocks too. If you go with Forged Performance for your build, I would use their short block.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 04:23 PM
  #19  
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hopefully over-rev won't be much of an issue on a 5AT, the WOT part I do quite frequently however...

my engine is brand new (warranty replaced)... so I was hoping that just a bolt-on greddy kit with a built trans and maybe a few others would keep me safe without needing to build the block (because that becomes quite a bit more expensive, especially considering labor costs as well).
 
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 05:38 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Gian124
hopefully over-rev won't be much of an issue on a 5AT, the WOT part I do quite frequently however...

my engine is brand new (warranty replaced)... so I was hoping that just a bolt-on greddy kit with a built trans and maybe a few others would keep me safe without needing to build the block (because that becomes quite a bit more expensive, especially considering labor costs as well).
There is a person I met at Sebring (I don't remember his name or whether he is on the My350Z forum) running a stock block with right around 400 whp (measured on a Mustang Dyno, so it might be safe to assume 440 whp as measured on a DynoJet). He has run his 350Z at numerous track events and uses it for a daily driver, and has been doing so for a long time. As I said, I don't remember his name, but Japtrix did his build. Call Roger at Japtrix (561-881-8801) and he can give you the specifics. That paricular build may be something to copy for what you want to achieve. If memory serves me correctly (which it often fails to do ) he might be running a JWT or APS turbo kit.
 
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