I've been mapping out my build for quite some time... but there are so many variables. After reading the builds over the years, it seems that the tuner is more important than the products (for the most part)... I've seen APS builds at 14 PSI yeild much less torque than Greddy Builds at 6 PSI.

Anyway, I am looking to get the most bang for the buck, and build a daily-driver that is putting about 400 torque to the rear wheels.


Background:I have a 2003 5AT.
The trans has 10k miles and is getting a built VB, TC & in-line transmission cooler.
The engine has 200 miles. All the internals are stock.
Exhaust - Fast Intenentions Intimidator with 300 Cell HFCs


Planned: (but looking for advice)
After speaking with Forged and a few local shops, I am leaning toward the Greddy 18G TT kit. Initially I was all about the APS extreme.
Engine Management: HKS FCON V-Pro
-- Display: HKS CAMP 2
Fuel Pump - Walbro 255 lph
Intake – Cosworth Plenum
Methanol Injection - Aquamist

Uncertainties:
stock connecting rods are quoted to be a *known weakpoint* but it doesn't seem as though many people have had this as a fail point.

Fuel Return System --- is this necessary for the money?... the CJ Motorsports system is about $1000
Oil Cooler - necessary?
Upgraded Radiators / Engine Cooling - Any Suggestions?
Headers - worth the money or minimal gain?
Z-tube / pop-chargers - necessary or helpful on a intercooled TT car?


Questions:
Other than what is included, any tricks or tips for better installation?... e.g. moving wastegate locations, upgrading or swapping components from the kit, etc?

What driving habbits or conditions put the most stress on a Forced Induction engine (e.g. High RPM Engine Braking?)

Finally, what safeguards should be done to the motor that are reasonably priced? (e.g. are head studs & upgraded head gaskets really that much bang for the buck?.... are Rods & Pistons really necessary if I'm staying below about 450 torque?)


Thank you all for the info over the years and thank you in advance for any input!

Looking forward to finally boosting my car now that the warranty is running out!!!

 

Since you are dealing with FP, LISTEN to Sharif. He is very, very knowledgeable and has a wealth of experience with our motors. He will not steer you wrong, and will give you far better and more accurate answers than most of the answers that you will get here.

You don't see alot of failures due to stock rods failing because most people are wise enough not to push them too hard. Sharif will tell you exactly how hard you can push your setup, and give good advice on what upgrades you should make. FP has built and tuned alot VQ's, has seen failures, and has seen stock blocks run for a long time.

The most stress on the rods are when peak torque is reached. With a Greddy 18G TT kit, this will be around 4200 rpm, and this is where I would anticipate a rod failure to occur. The most stress on the crank is at high rpm because of the recipicating mass, but our cranks are pretty stout.

With regard to the Greddy 18G TT kit, I had one and loved it. It is a great all around kit. I sold mine because I am building for road racing and I want water-cooled turbos. I made over 600 whp with the Greddy's, of course you don't want to do that with a stock block. But, with the Greddy's, you will be in a good situation if you every decide to get a built short block down the road sometime. If you don't ever think you get a built short block, then you might want to also consider a TT kit with smaller turbos. They will spool up faster and give you a broader torque curve. The downside is that they do not have the ability to give you as much hp as the Greddys, but they will give you at least as much as you need to reach the limits of a stock block. Also, you can always upgrade the system to get bigger turbos down the road.

With regard to moving wastegate locations, upgrading or swapping components from the kit, etc, imo it is a complete waste of time and money for the level of torque you are looking for.

I would get a fuel return system, though. You don't want to lean out because of fuel delivery issues. That is a bad thing.

Oil coolers and upgraded radiators are good to have for a boosted motor. You won't use headers with a TT kit. Use the exhaust manifolds that come with the kit. Also, use the intake system that comes with the kit. For your HP levels, other modifications are a complete waste of time and money.

You will probably need an aftermarket exhaust system, and you might want to consider test pipes or downpipes if you are in a state that does not have smog check. This will depend on your HP goal. Talk to Sharif about that.

With regard to the best safeguard for the motor, that would be a built shortblock. FP's stage 1 should do the trick. I used HKS headgaskets ARP L19 head studs on my last build, and they worked great. On my new build I am going to try the HR headgaskets, and maybe the HR head bolts.

Edit: One last thing, since you are running an AT, you might want to look into upgrading the valve body kit and clutch packs. Again, ask Sharif about that. I'm a 6MT guy, so I have not looked into it, but I do know that the AT has limitations on how hard you can push it when it is completely stock.

Edit #2: It might behoove you to do some research on the My350Z Forced Induction forum. (The 350Z's have the same motor and transmission as the G35). That forum is alot more active and there are some very informative threads.

 

^^^Excellent info given.

 

Send your car to FP. They will pick it up and deliver it back to you. Many folks underestimate the amount of work, particularly troubleshooting, that goes into a build like this. The most important tip I can give you is to have one shop (Forged Performance) do everything and they will back up their work. Don't try to do bits and pieces on your own to save a few bucks (unless you are very experienced). It will end up costing you more later. Good luck.

 

Hey OP, are you there???

EDIT: OP, "moving wastegate locations, upgrading or swapping components from the kit, etc" is all a complete waste of time with a stock short block. If you want more HP than what is available from a stock block, the first and foremost thing is to replace that block with something that can handle increased HP. In other words, if the stock block is only capable of handling a certain HP, what sense does it make to try to force more air/fuel mixture into it??????????

 

Yes TTG35forT,
I was thinking that as well... I guess I am questioning for efficiency and maintenance as far as the locations & tweaks.

And I agree, however I don't intend on doing anything too severe in my car, just aggressive driving and occasional (2-3 times a year) auto-cross ... but not focused on competition / winning. That is why I am targeting about 400 torque as my goal.

 

FP will take good care of you.

 

my biggest concern is that they are over 1000 miles away. I add ~$1200 shipping and if anything breaks down, it is a minimum of that same amount to have it repaired... however there are no G35 / 350z specialists even near the level of proficiency as FP in my area.

 

What state are you in?

 

NJ

no one really on the caliber of Injected, GTM, Forged, etc around here... we had MRC for a while but they closed up shop

 

There are some guys in the My350Z forum in your area. It might behoove you to PM R0mey on that forum and ask his advise. He also is in NJ.

 

yeah, been checking that thread over the years as well... I'll refresh the topics and see if there are any new specialist tuners... the instal isn't tricky, but the tuning is where I'm seeking the gurus

 

Greddy is a good kit
but just as TTg35forT stated some of us have different.
I can't harp enough about water cooled BB Turbos.
I'm just not a fan of having to run a turbo timer.
One thing Greddy has for it makes great power
and the turbo's are relatively cheap to rebuild.
I don't know if they still have the build issues that
some have encountered with the Manifold cracking.

Fcon is a great system but it's a locked system
meaning you tied in to whoever tunes your car
and if you go elsewhere you would most likely have to start from scratch.
Fcon also needs alot of additional items to make it perfect and everything sarts adding up quick.

Personally i run a Haltech Standalone EMS
If anything goes wrong I can call my tuner and with a laptop
get a datalog or give him some readouts and he would get me back on the
road in no time or at least able to get to him or whoever I might be taking
it to get tuned.

Headers/pop charger/ztube would be tossed once you go Fi
so totally not needed for your situation.
I would not skimp on the fuel system.
Oil cooler/better radiator is not a must but it's icing on the cake
for your power levels. I'm definitely looking to do this in the near future.

As far as safeguards it's all on you how far you want to take it.
Most of us play russian roulette with stock motors and Fi.
Built shortblock would be a minimum if you want some security.

Everything else looks spot on

 

I think for the first go around on a big build, FP absorbs the transportation cost. I would plan on a 3 month or 6 month checkup - and add that $1200 into your budget. After 6 months, you should have the kinks all worked out and just need to keep up regular maintenance (change fluids). No one beats Forged Performance for customer service - it's worth the long distance relationship. Talk to Sharif and ask him about other builds from out of state. Get references.

 

http://www.vinnytenracing.com/ - on long island