View Poll Results: Should I build the bottom end?
Voters: 13. You may not vote on this poll
Vortech Build. Will I regret not building the bottom end?
Vortech Build. Will I regret not building the bottom end?
I need some advise. Im sure someone has asked these questions, but I cant find any through the search button. Im looking at the Vortech V3 setup with the 3.12 pulley makin about 400whp at 10.5psi. If Im going to build the bottom end, I want to do it before the supercharger is installed. My question is to all the Vortech Guys, should I build the bottom end or am I safe for atleast another 100k?
If I shoud, what should I do? I know our connecting rods are the weak link, but what should I do?
1. Connecting Rods?
2. Sleeves?
3. Pistons?
4. Cams?
P. S. Please dont flame me if you know of another similar thread. Just re direct me.
Thanks,
Josh
If I shoud, what should I do? I know our connecting rods are the weak link, but what should I do?
1. Connecting Rods?
2. Sleeves?
3. Pistons?
4. Cams?
P. S. Please dont flame me if you know of another similar thread. Just re direct me.
Thanks,
Josh
This is my baby. I dont want anything to happen to her because I was too cheap or in too much of a hurry to throw a SC on.
What did you do to you built motor and approximately how much did it cost?
What did you do to you built motor and approximately how much did it cost?
You dont need to build your motor as long as you have all the supporting mods, tuned right and a little bit of common sense. If you expect it to last 100K+ and couldn't afford a down time then stay NA. Chit can happen so you motor can blow even with all the supporting mods and even with a great tune.
I dont think you will make 400 whp with a 3.12 pulley. You will need to runner a smaller pulley. At 400whp you should at least do pistons and rods.
Then again a supercahrger has a linear curve so you dont have as much torque but to be safe pistons and rods.
Then again a supercahrger has a linear curve so you dont have as much torque but to be safe pistons and rods.
Its always a gamble with FI on the stock block. If you cant afford the month plus of additional downtime later when something goes wrong do it now.
There is another thread going about a guy who actually blew his up on the dyno with a vortech at Cobb...
There is another thread going about a guy who actually blew his up on the dyno with a vortech at Cobb...
Trending Topics
My G is an 05 6mt. I had the engine replaced about 4 months ago due to oil consumption, if that makes a difference.
I plan on buying a beater for the winter. One reason is because I dont want the G out in the weather. Two is because thats when I plan on building up the G. So I will have another vehicle incase something goes wrong.
What whp should the 3.12 pulley get then? Whatever that whp is, that will be okay for now.
Another consern is Boost. Boost is like crack. Im certain I will want more once I get to my max on the stock block.
Im soooooooo confused. Somebody help.
I plan on buying a beater for the winter. One reason is because I dont want the G out in the weather. Two is because thats when I plan on building up the G. So I will have another vehicle incase something goes wrong.
What whp should the 3.12 pulley get then? Whatever that whp is, that will be okay for now.
Another consern is Boost. Boost is like crack. Im certain I will want more once I get to my max on the stock block.
Im soooooooo confused. Somebody help.
Oh. I should also mention that along with the SC kit. I will be installing the usual larger injectors, fuel pump, colder spark plugs, UTEC managment system which Function Tuned is going to tune, and soo on, and soo on.
Firstly, the 3.12 pulley with a "good" tune and support mods (HFCs / exhaust) will get you 400rwhp. Mine Vortech V-3 puts out about 420rwhp now at 10.5psi.
If your plans are to stay at the 400rwhp mark, than, the stock motor should suffice - no problems assuming you have a good tune. Although, as it was already mentioned, anytime you go FI, you are taking a risk. Its just a matter of trade-off. Performance vs. Risk which you are willing to take.
However, if you want to go with smaller pulleys (increase boost), and so forth . . ., then a built motor is probably the way to go.
Of course, if you want to go for crazy power, then definitely go for the TT set-up.
But, if you just plan on sticking with the 3.12 pulley with the V3, you'll get about 400rwhp and no point in going with a built motor at this time.
Of course, and i don't have a lot experience in this area so this is just my guess, but I would think repairing a blown motor would be similar in cost to the labor and parts involved in doing a built motor. So, in otherwords, do it now, or do it later, the cost might not be much different.
If your plans are to stay at the 400rwhp mark, than, the stock motor should suffice - no problems assuming you have a good tune. Although, as it was already mentioned, anytime you go FI, you are taking a risk. Its just a matter of trade-off. Performance vs. Risk which you are willing to take.
However, if you want to go with smaller pulleys (increase boost), and so forth . . ., then a built motor is probably the way to go.
Of course, if you want to go for crazy power, then definitely go for the TT set-up.
But, if you just plan on sticking with the 3.12 pulley with the V3, you'll get about 400rwhp and no point in going with a built motor at this time.
Of course, and i don't have a lot experience in this area so this is just my guess, but I would think repairing a blown motor would be similar in cost to the labor and parts involved in doing a built motor. So, in otherwords, do it now, or do it later, the cost might not be much different.
Thank you Liche. That was very helpful. I think I will just throw on the Vortech V3 and get a conservative tune to about 400 whp. If I want more, then I will rebuild the engine later.
The other problem is finding a reliable machine shop around MD. Thats difficult enough.
From what I know, I need HFC's and to take my plenum spacer off due to leaking issues. The V3 system uses its own oil so there is no need to tap into the oil pan.
Does anyone know if I need a catch can. And what exactly it is?
Thanks
The other problem is finding a reliable machine shop around MD. Thats difficult enough.
From what I know, I need HFC's and to take my plenum spacer off due to leaking issues. The V3 system uses its own oil so there is no need to tap into the oil pan.
Does anyone know if I need a catch can. And what exactly it is?
Thanks
Oh Liche.
How do you like your stillen Catback with the V3 setup. Im looking at exhausts but they will sound different and work differently with a SC setup on. So how do you like it? or would you have gone with someone else. Heinsight.
How do you like your stillen Catback with the V3 setup. Im looking at exhausts but they will sound different and work differently with a SC setup on. So how do you like it? or would you have gone with someone else. Heinsight.
I have the Stillen Catback and a High Intentions 300 Cell HFCs. They work great, and sound great too, although i haven't really been out of the car with someone else driving to see "exactly" how they sound.
If you're in MD, definitely check out JT Performance in Wilmington, DE if you are nearby.
If you're in MD, definitely check out JT Performance in Wilmington, DE if you are nearby.
Im in Pasadena MD. I tried to look into JT Performance in DE but I couldnt find there website and unless they do engine work, I think im gonna go with Function Tuned in VA for the tune. There closer and have an awesome shop, and reliable tuners.
I think im gonna look into your exhaust. When you said High intentions, did you mean Fast Intentions?
I think im gonna look into your exhaust. When you said High intentions, did you mean Fast Intentions?
head gasket = no big deal because no real damage has been done yet, you just have to fix it.
Thrown rod, spun bearings, etc = trouble because a lot of your stock motor isn't reusable and you have to buy a new one, in addition to the usual forged internals.
For a build thats staying under 600 whp you'll be fine with:
Pistons & rods
head gasket (hks, cosworth, or some people use the HR but the HKS is the only one that has never failed on a vq35de)
ARP L19 head studs
bearings (I like cosworth)
If you plan on staying with the SC and not upgrading to twins, IMO the way to go would be to install the SC and start looking for a used block to start building so you will be ready when something goes wrong. A month + of downtime is no joke when your babys just sitting at the shop
A SC is pretty simple to install/uninstall, and you'd only have to pay to retune and possibly a some labor. (could get a deal if the same shops doing the work)
Also I would seriously consider trying to find an Uprev tuner nearby to get Osiris tuned instead of the Utec... You can't beat the driveability
I kind of rambled; hope it helps
Last edited by seymore4; Nov 27, 2009 at 03:03 PM.













