Here are some numbers from Saturday at the track:

Best ET:

60- 2.093
330 5.715
1/8 6.638
MPH 84.22
1000 11.138
1/4 13.275
MPH 103.12

Best MPH:

60- 2.165
330 5.781
1/8 8.695
MPH 85.56
1000 11.191
1/4 13.302
MPH 105.79

Most times average 13.33-13.44 speed was usually around 104 each run.

The weak link is most definitley the transmission. It shifts as slow as it does without f/i. I'm going to look into the Stillen valve body. If anyone has experience with this please respond with your thoughts.

 

I JUST ORDERED MY SC I ALSO WENT WITH THE STILLEN VALVE BODY I,M GOING TO FLASH MY ECU I,M TRYING TO FIND A TORQUE CONVERTER.

 

Man nice numbers, what kinda HP you putting out approx? And is that the max boost to get those #'s? Also were those runs on your 19's? If so you should be maybe under 13 =) Also the auto shifting is pretty bad, i would get the 10wire grounding kit it helps a lot with the MM shifting IMO. Get some pics and videos up, your making me think twice about keeping my car and going FI lol. Martin


Martin
2003.5 BS G35
Nismo Aero/Sport Package
0-60 5.4 - 1/4 Mile 14.16 *GTech* and on 19's!!

 

We are both doing about the same . 13.2 @105...2.0 60ft I do have a torque converter....helps on shifts

Couldnt afford it when young...gonna play when Im old

 

Your ETs look pretty good for your 60' times. I would actually have expected higher trap speeds based on your mods. You're still running really rich though, right?

--Steve

 

I can't get the car out of the hole any faster, I'm not spinning at all, just launching with brake and gas at about 1800rpm. Yes still rich, at about 5500 rpms, mix goes sub 11:1, I've tried to lean it out, and it's getting better. The problem is the gauge shows good mix in 1st and 2nd. Maybe things are happening too fast to get good readings and I shouldn't worry about 1st and 2nd, and concentrate on 3rd and 4th. Do you know what the numbers in the R4 maps actually correspond to?

 

iLL,

I put the stock 17 Goodyears on with very little tread at roughly 19psi.

 

Check Levelten.com They're doing TC's for 600 and VB's for 700. I think they are doing Stillen's VB's

 

The stock ECU......I think dumps a bunch of gas in right before redline.....you have to get the right cell and then keep lowering it down.....took me awhile..5 or 6 runs to get it 11.3 or better

Couldnt afford it when young...gonna play when Im old

 

Use the R4 recording feature to make sure you are changing the right cell. You might not be in the same cells in 1st and 2nd gear as you are in 3rd and 4th. You may need a buddy in the car to make a note of the A/F readings at various RPMs. For best results, do it on a loaded dyno--but that costs money of course.

--Steve

 

I was trying to get the optimum A:F on the track, then go to a loaded dyno to smooth the map out. Sound like a plan? I think it would be cheaper that way.

Did you setup your timing map to pull timing by rpm or pressure?

 

I installed a 10-wire grounding kit and had the dealer do the TCM reflash. The combination made a remarkable improvement in shifting of the 5AT. The shifts are quite fast, crisp and smooth at the same time. The only one that is a tad slow is from 1 - 2. You might want to try this before pulling the valve body out.

It doesn't BANG between gears like the old Chrysler trannies, but it is VERY good. I was just thinking today that I would never switch to a 6MT, even if it was an option.

I talked with Stillen about their valve body mod and they were quite convincing, claiming it was superior to L 10 out east.

 

where did you buy your s/c

Back in Black

 

gspot, do you have access to the r4 software?

2 G or not 2 G, there's no question!

 

Yes