Ok guys I have been searching for days and hundreds of threads about everything about these cars and turbo kits and whats a good afr reading for FI.. But really wanna know a lil more about my car and maybe yall can help me out what to look for or how to go about this.

Well, what I wanna know is, I bought this 04 coupe g35 used and already put about 3k miles on it and runs good with the turbonetics kit. But at WOT I am running around 13.1-13.3 afr and boost gauge showing close to 9psi (no boost gauge, just external rapture wastegate). I know I should be running about 11.5 or a lil higher correct? I am also throwing a p1283 and 1274 so if I have a bad o2 sensor would this cause my car to run that lean and will running 13's hurt my motor?? I rarely drive my car hard cause I wanna have it awhile.. I am monitoring it through the AEM Wideband that was installed. Only other thing (performance) he had on the car beside the TN kit is the Greddy Evo 2 exhaust.. and I have already checked for vac leaks and boost leaks (looked good). I also get this code just cruising the streets not evening boosting and afr is running steady about 14.7..

Another questions is, how would I know what kinda ecu tune/piggyback this thing has?? Could I just take it to any dyno and have them tune it? I do know I have 3 maps installed from switching it on the steering wheel, but not sure which one is what and also what size injectors and fuel pump?? Just wondering what I have got going on with this car so I would know for my knowledge.. Oh and only issue with hesitation on the car is at idle. When just sitting there the car will surge a lil from 720 rmp's down to about 650 rpm's. Maybe from a bad o2

I did take the turbo off and had it repaired by turbonetics because I saw a lil oil coming out the exhaust and they repaired it and also added a water cooled kit on it.. Maybe that would cause my o2 to fail?? Also did a compression test and all cylinders were dead at 175 so compression was perfect. I do have the cipher cable to check and monitor and clear my codes.. Not sure what all to log (besides the one uprev site tells ya) but I don't know what good numbers to look for though.. with this setup.

Hope this wasn't the wrong section to post all of this.. This is my first G35 and my first boosted car and I know noobs shouldn't start with a car thats NA from the factory but couldn't pass the deal up.. 12k for an 60k miles 04 coupe black on black fully loaded that came with the TN's kit with Defi boost and oil pressure gauges along with AEM afr and greddy turbo timer and 19" Volk SF Challenge rims with new BFG KDW 2 tires with the Greddy Evo 2 exhaust also had LED's in all the lil lights inside and out and tinted all the way around.. Inside is flawless and outside is pretty clean also. Aside from the lil issues I am having above^^

Thanks Guys, I hope none of this will get bashed on too hard, because I don't proof read good over anything I type out haha so any help would be great..

 

Nice deal for sure and that will be fun to drive.

The kit is set to run at 8psi stock and uses an ECU reflash for tuning which is about the most you want to push on a stock engine.

If it were me, I would find an Osiris tuner nearby and pay for them to check your setup thoroughly and put a custom tune on it. I think thats much better than a piggy back and could solve your sensor codes. The generic map from turbonetics + aftermarket parts could be the source of the some of the problems you are seeing.

Not only will it probably solve your issues, but a good tune will give you more power and be safer. Money well spent.

 

Ok thanks a lot.. I will def do that. I see the closest Osiris from me in Mississippi is henson performance in Alabama.. anybody know about them?

 

An Osiris tune by a UpRev authorized dealer seems like a very good idea. Until then I would stay out of boost. 13 afr is quite lean and if you stay in boost, you will get that engine hot very quickly. Beyond that it sounds like the TN reflash is not on that car since it is operating that lean, which makes me wonder if timing is being retarded appropriately. If you are running NA fuel AND timing, you are taking a huge risk every time you boost.

Sounds like you got a great deal on a sweet car with a solid engine - keep it that way and stay out of boost until properly tuned. Make sure your tuner checks the plugs before he gets started to (a) check condition and (b) ensure they are 1 step colder than stock.

 

Yeah, I hardly ever get into boost with the car. I might do it just to show off at a redlight but never redlined it through all gears, just in 3rd to see what my afr's were.. I just recently changed the plugs to a one step colder.. He had the NA plugs still in it. (when I did my compression test I found this out). The kit looks great and not rigged up. The car was done right. Just wondering if I change that o2 out will it bring my afr's down also. It was rainning too much early, so I couldn't get it changed out.

My cipher shows my bank 1 sensor reading around 13.5 at idle and my bank 2 is reading like 16.5 and my AEM wideband is reading a constant 14.7. Which I know my driverside suppose run a lil leaner but not that high and thats the code I am getting. Which makes me think it might be the o2 going out. Won't hurt to have new ones huh.. But def still gonna get a tune to be on the safe side.

 

13 is not lean that is rich. Stoich is 14.7 and that is where engines are suppose to run but going a little rich is ok. When going into boost you want to be a little rich to be safe. The 16.5 is getting pretty lean and could be harmful unless the sensor is bad.

 

newer engines can handle leaner conditions compared to your grandpa's push rod but you probably want to be closer to 12.5 afr at peak rpm.

 

wbama387, TemjinX2 - did you read the OP? THAT IS NOT TRUE FOR A FI HIGH COMPRESSION MOTOR!!!!! You want AFRs BELOW 12 under boost.

 

Raj its clear those 2 dont know what they are talking about with FI.

 

Riverside20, sounds like you got helluva deal! IMHO low 13's for a (FI car) is slightly on the lean side. I had a custom turbo Prelude f22b sohc back in the day and AFR's were constantly 11-11.7 at the most. I ran that thing hard too, sometimes turning the boost up to 13lbs! Not saying you should do that because your motor has a higher compression. I will say that if longevity is a priority for you get your car retuned with Uprev, and tell the tuner that you want to run a more conservative tune. It would be a good idea to get your car dyoned while retuning to find out how much power you are putting down. This would be very important since you have an AT tranny..remember the limits of these things. BTW do you have a shift kit on your tranny?

 

hey riverside - congrats. Those codes are from your o2 only sensors and most turbonetics folks (like myself) just live with them. The upper sensors (closer to the headers) are actual wide bands - those would cause problems.

This will only be an issue when you're trying to get inspection. so here are my tips for that:

unplug the car from the battery, leave off for at least 8 hours.
drive the car - heck, beat on it for around 50 miles
check with a code scanner make sure codes are all ready (none pending)
inspect immediately, because they will come back within ~10 miles of being ready!

enjoy

 

OP, i think you're asking all of the right questions. It's just the timing and the audience of which you're asking. Not trying to hate, but why didn't you ask the seller at or before you bought the car? haha If you weren't able to get these questions answered by the seller, and they sold it cheap, it might not be such a 'good' deal or was stolen.