OK, so here is the details on my project. I don't have all the information yet but as of right now this is how its going to go:

2004 Infiniti G35 sport coupe

<b>Fuel Management:</b>
TS L spec reflash (remove speed limiter, up rev limiter, remap throttle body)
Split Second piggy back ECU
RC 540cc injectors (may not be big enough but would like a smoother idle)
Modified fuel rails (Looked into altered atmosphere but overpriced)
Walbro 255LPH Fuel Pump
Return line with Mallory boost reference fuel regulator

<b>Engine:</b>
Stock VQ35DE block
Aries 8.5:1 forged pistons (0.01 overbore)
Pauter forged rods
Speed Force Racing Ball Bearing Twin Turbo
Twin Split front mount intercoolers
JWT or Tomei Cams (input from anyone appreciated)
Stock crank
Head work (not sure what can be done till the heads are off the car)
1 step colder NGK spark plugs
All new gaskets

<b>Exhaust:</b>
Crawford Plenum
Crawford Hi Flow Cats
Aftermarket Y Pipe ??? - No idea yet - Can't decide
Aftermakret Cat Back ??? - No idea yet - Can't decide

<b>Rims and Tires:</b>
18" x 10.5" Rims (looking for a light, strong racing rim)
Drag radials (looking for something to hook up)

<b>Tranny:</b>
Stock 6MT
JWT Flywheel
JWT Clutch

<b>Gauges:</b>
AEM Wideband O2
Boost Guage (forget what kind)

<b>VDC Control:</b>
KPtech VDC Memory switch

<b>Window Control:</b>
KPtech window module

<b>Goals:</b>
550RWHP on pump gas
10.xx quarter mile

As of right now all I have left to decide on is the Cam, the exhaust, and the rims/tires. I have no idea what cam to go with and I might just let my engine guy decide. The exhaust is something I've fought for over a year now, I just can't make a decision and stick with it. The rims and tires are a shot in the dark. I want something that is light, strong, and not THAT expensive which will make them impossible to find. My build will start in 2-4 weeks so PLEASE let me know if you think I have missed anything or if you have any advice. I am having a local machine shop do the engine work (Performance clinic - they just got done building my Dad's pump gas 565ci big block) and I am having a place called Quantum Racing do the tuning (Mark from Quantum can be found on my350z.com). I feel very confident that the people working on the car will do an excellant job and I won't have to go through any more blown motor issues!

 

Kevin,

Will you be looking for a 15 or 16 inch drag racing rim? Most people will be looking into light weight 19's or 20's if you don't specify...

 

Bogart makes some very light wheels. I would stick to a 15" wheel as you will have a better selection of slicks then if you get a 16" wheel.

 

As this is my primary street car AND I have Brembos I am going to stick with 18 x 10.5" rims. I'm looking for the best combination of looks, performance, and funtionality. I thought about going with a 17" rim but I love the way the car handles with the 18s and I don't want to mess that up. Also, I want to keep the VDC system as stock as possible for every day driving and for driving in bad weather.

 

Cam
-because not many upgrading cam yet so we still lack of feedbacks.i would choose Tomei or Nismo myself but JWT also been around for quite sometimes and they're nissan's specialist.i think you can't go wrong choosing either one.

Head work
-op #1: port/polish
-op #2: port/polish-springs-retainers-locks.
-op #3: port/polish-springs-retainers-locks-guides-oversize valves-coating...
depend on how deep is your pocket.

Exhaust
Speed force racing also makes custom test pipe/Y pipe.why don't you talk to Tim about it.best for FI application is true dual exhaust.

Rims
Fikse and HRE made extremely light aluminum wheels but they also very pricey.look like 18 x 10.5 is a custom made size.there're sooo many out there.atleast you tell us what's in your mind.what's your taste,what style do you like perhap a few pics of wheels you're looking at right now.

Tires
again so many good brands out there.but you have to choose this after the rims size because one brand might carry that size but not the other.even with one brand,they still vary between models,sizes.maybe we should narrow this down by the time you settle with rims size.i'm running
BFgoodrich and very happy with them.

Tranny
if you're serious about 550rwhp then you should bulletfroof the tranny itself.

550RWHP on pump gas.this number can be archive without any problem but i would sleeves the block if the fund is there.better do it now than later.

10.xx quarter mile i don't know about this.i don't track but to me this is a question mark.our cars already heavy as stock.and all you did was adding more weights.we all know that to go fast,it about power/weight
ratio.so until you lose some fat...

i didn't see you mentioned bearings,copper gaskets.ARP headstuds,rod bolts...those little things also plays vital roles and they add up too.
hope this help you a little.i'm still learning as i go,so correct me if i'm wrong.

 

i totally agree with tinman. look for a thicker headgasket as well. i'd opt for option 3 on the headwork. last thing you'd want is a valve shooting through the head. try and go titanium. as for cams, try to get in touch with different japanese companies such as top secret or hks, people who have built FI VQ's and have experience with cam profiles on turbo apps. compare their responses. 10 seconds is a hard order to fill dude. and your gona street drive this? i hope u don't live anywhere near california cos how the hell u gonna pass emmissions and not get bagged by 5-0? 550whp, defintely go with a custom exhaust, maybe in the vicinity of 3.5-4" in diameter, ask tim about it, u may even have to straight pipe your system and save your cats for emmisssions testing. as for the SS piggyback, uhm, i think in such an app you'd be safer with a complete engine management system like DFI if they make on for our car. sounds like an exciting project, good luck with it.

 

I haven't decided on gaskets and bearings, that will be up to the engine builders discretion. I already have the ARP stud kit, I forgot to add that in up there. The Puater rods came with rod bolts that are supposed to be good enough for what I'm doing.

As far as cams go I am leaning towards the JWT because I have the JWT flywheel and clutch. But, like many other things it will rest in the engine builders discretion.

As of this far I haven't heard of anyone bullet proofing a 6mt. I haven't heard of anything you can do to make it any stronger.

 

talk to Tim about getting the cd from the transmision guy.it shows exactly what they do to the tranny.
also some reading materials can be found here
http://www.levelten.com

 

I'd have to agree with TINMAN on the 1/4 mile time. The power/weight ratio won't allow a 10 sec pass without luck and a prayer. Looks great though...keep us informed.

 

The 10 second 1/4 goal will be done with raised boost and race gas.....

For daily driving (haha who am I kidding) I will run on ~15psi of boost and 93 octane.

I'm not sure if it will happen or not but it sure would be cool if it did!

 

KPierson,

I contacted you a couple weeks ago regarding your loncgblock but fortunately i was able to source one, sorry i didn't get back to you. As for your project, it sounds like you're on the right track.

We(DSport Magazine) are going to be doing a complete 04' G35 Coupe 6MT, my personal car, Build-up throughout 2005. Our pump gas goal is set at 500-600hp and a race gas goal of 800-1000hp. Please feel free to visit our website for some of our latest articles at www.dragsport.com. Here's a little preview of some of the parts that we're looking at for the build.

Heads:
-Port and Polish
-Tomei 268/JWT/Nismo Cams
-Ferrea/Supertech +1mm Over Stainless Steel or Titanium or Inconel
-Nismo/JWT Heavy Duty Valve Springs
-Bronze Valve Guides
-Custom Intake Manifold
-Acufabb throttle Body
-ARP Head Stud Kit

Block:
-Darton Sleeves M.I.D. closed deck
-CP/Arias 81
-Pauter/Carrillo/Crower Rods
-ARP Main Studs
-Nismo Racing Oil Pump
-Power Enterprise/ARC Oil Pan
-Power Enterprise V-Belt Kit

Clutch/Drivetrain:
-RPS Carbon Carbon Clutch
-OS Giken/Cusco/Nismo LSD
-SST Clutch Line
-ACPT Carbon Fiber Driveshaft
-Driveshaft Shop Rear Axles

 

It will be interesting to see what you come up with. It looks like our goals are similar. I don't see a need to sleeve the block, I just hope I don't regret it down the road. The hight cost and very little benefit on my 15-20psi of boost let me to that decision.

 

true,but only if you STAY at 15-20 psi.if you even have a thought of more than that down the road then this is the time to do it.and i did mention if you have the fund to back it up.
btw,i'm going with Tomei cam,port/polish,ARP Head Stud Kit,ARP mains,Darton Sleeves,CP pistons,Carrillo Rods,rebuilded tranny and i'm only aim for 500rwhp.
it's my daily beater you know?

 

Well, the Speedforce Racing TT is only rated up to 650HP. If I want to go above 15-20 PSI the turbos will have to be upgraded. Its an endless cycle trying to have NO weak link, cuz there always will be one.

I would say the sleeves are totally over kill in your case. I've heard too many horror stories about sleeves shifting and stuff like that to take a chance if its not necesarry. Why did you pick the Tomei cams? Like I said, I'm going to leave a lot of the decision making up to my engine builder... thats what he does for a living, and he used to build engines for my Dad when my Dad was my age. He will know what cam will work the best for my application, he will know what head work needs to be done, and he will hopefully know what all gaskets and other stuff I will need. And, if he tells me to sleeve the block I will probably do it.

I've been reading up on some stuff and the PE TT kit looks really nice..... All this decision making is killing me!

 

Tinman,

What are you doing for spark plugs? Someone told me the other day to to with 2 steps colder but I've never heard anyone else recomend that? Any ideas?