https://g35driver.com/forums/members...3-2-53413.html

 

Don't listen to this knewb.... Lol
Bikes are slow... In the corners at least.

If I could do it again, boost would of been the first mod, I blew 3k on B's that I took off and sold cheap

 

Where the hell you been man?!?

 

If I could do it again, I never would have bought a G35 or a second G35 or a G37. I am a painfully slow learner.

 

Yeah I'm looking to go used manual v8 r8 with a sc to be installed soon there after.

Once this divorce is final and I recouped from lawyer bills..
Yes the dream team has split up. DC will make or break you. She moved back to Richmond. Her mistake? Doing it behind my back and including my two boys.

Good thing about paying retarded high lawyer bills, I have realized that I can afford almost any car as long as I eat grilled chicken with rice 7 days a week. Lol

 

Damnn man, I didnt hear about your divorce. I thought you just got married and bought a house. I moved to Chicago, then NYC, then Boston. I finally came back to the DC area in May and got married myself.

I'm selling my big bore harley, my R1 and my Jeep. Planning on getting a RR Evoque and some jetskis.

 

I didnt read it all kind a skip around. But with ALL THE issues I had I would have done it again, The only change I would have made was I would HAVE NEVER went to the dealer for it, They f'd the install up and the engine quit,Then they back out on what they promised(in wirting) I was screwed and out over 10k. But I would have done it again, Just had my tuner istall the damn thing.

If you go FI make sure the shop nows what the hell they are doing!!

ibelonginprison said is right, I do love my G and love making people sit up and stare as I drive by( happened yesterday LOL) But his qoute" Some people never have problems, some people have nothing BUT problems. "

I had nothing but problems

 

I'm new to the forum and don't have F/I yet, but since this thread has been mostly about the psychology of that decision, I'll offer a comment. I have a 2005 G35x with no mods, and am close to pulling the trigger on a Stillen S/C + headers. I've seen all the posts on the potential issues, risk to the car of F/I, bad return on investment, etc. But here's where I'm coming from:

I'm saving enough money each month to be able to buy something like a BMW 335x or a Shelby Mustang in a couple years. Already have the wife's permission to do that (reward for hitting 20 years in the service). The thing is, I REALLY like my G. I wish the gas mileage was a little better. But with an AT, AWD, decent power, great reliability, good looks, etc, this is a nearly ideal daily driver for the Northeast US (where I'm headed next). When I thought about what I really wanted for my next car, it came down to updated electronics and some more power. It dawned on me that I might be able to get that on the car I have for a fraction of the cost of a new one. After discovering on the internet that there are tons of performance mods for the G35 (I had no idea when I bought it), it made even more sense to "commit" to the 2005 G35x with, say, $10-15k of mods and renovations, rather than spending $55-65k on a new car. I've had some time in an M3 with SMG so I know what a real sports car feels like. A G35 will never be that... but it's not making sense to me to spend so much money on a new car, when I can make the one I have pretty darn good for a fraction of the cost.

I already updated the electronics with a Bluetooth-capable stereo and rain sensing wipers--little things, I know, but they make a huge difference in the commuting experience. So, next is performance, which is where aftermarket F/I comes in. My sense, from research and a few exchanges with installers, is that S/C is the way to go for simplicity and reliability. Keeping things under 400whp seems not to carry any inherent risk. Since I have an AT, keeping the RPMs high to get the boost from a centrifugal S/C is work, so the low-end response from the Stillen seems like the best fit. I agree with the posts that spending money for fractional gains on N/A engines doesn't make a lot of sense. To me it's either go F/I, or save the $$$ toward a new car.

The installers I've talked to have recommended omitting the Stillen-supplied fuel system mods and piggyback ECU. I agree that makes sense if I want to maximize performance and flexibility... but I think they have a little self-interest in getting me into the shop for tuning, etc--another step toward the bottomless pit of mods that many posters here have noted. A "tuner" install with injectors, pump, and tuning is $3-4k more than just bolting on the kit myself. So unless I get a very low quote on a custom installation/tune, I'm going to take a weekend and have a go at the bolt-on kit as-is by itself. I'm OK with losing a little potential WHP in return for the lower cost and simplicity.

Bottom line, I guess, is that we shouldn't consider the "worth it" question in terms of the cost/time/trouble of aftermarket F/I by itself, but in relation to the cost of a new car that would deliver similar performance.

ANMVQ: Saw you have the Stillen... and are an X owner as well! Pretty high numbers: are you Stage 4? Any advice?

 

Henry dont waist your money on that pos s/c kit...i should know...lol

 

8 years married bro.

Looking to go twin charged soon.

 

My advice for the 2005 G35 X would be the stillen sc. You dont seem like you want goobs of power and the stillen is not only economical, but its also one of the cheapest options. Pound or pound, down low its still one of the best light to light options, IMO. The TQ down low is very fun, and who cant fall inlove with that whine the blower makes.

Account for hood modifcations. I recomeend the CarbonFiber or the Fiberglass cowl to save $$. YOU can cut the hole yourself and apply the cowl after you get in painted, the instructions come with the kit.
Having the X you are limited on max power anyways, so going big isnt in your cars.

Im not sure if you can run Twin Turbos due to the X gear under the engine, but if you like turbo, A mid or rear mount kit could work. look up STS.

DO NOT GET HEADERS, if you go stillen, the Stillen needs backpressure to perform at its best. breathing mods are not necessrily your friend with a Roots Blower.

Your tunner sounds legit, Using the UPREV software and tune is the best. The Stillen supplied is generic and not as robust for tuning. Although make sure your tuner knows the ends and outs of UpRev software and has success stories to back it up. There are few bugs that not everyone knows.

Shoot me a PM if you want more detailed information or need help.

I still have a Stillen SC plan in the works for my car.

Congrats on 20 years!

Had I stayed in Id be retiring next year. Oct. 26, 1994 lol. I miss it I cant lie.

 

Henry95
My Stillen SC was very diferent as I have a 2011 G37. Mine was a Vortch kit not the top mount SC like for the G35. I was only a "STG2" made my own, Impeller upgrade(12 PSI) and front mount heat exchanger.
Numbers where actually high @457WHP and 330 WTRQ but like I said the dealer new SH#t and the engine blew up casue they mickey moused the thottle harnesses and the fuel pump install.
But I would go this way again if I had another 12k just sitting around.
I do know if your are saving for a 335, Save the $$ and dont spend it on the G35. Just when you get the 335 reflash it with the Dianan Flash and get 400hp on all a all stock car.. Minus the flash of course.

I mean dont get my wrong being able to out run some high cars( Being in Boston there is alot LOL) and being able to break all 4 tires loose was very fun.

 

With an AT and the non revup you're right in that the SC is safer- but risk is ALWAYS a factor. Budget your build then double it. If you so much as wince at the number you end up with you may never be able to enjoy the car from being scared to pull the trigger.

As for worth it or not (I've already weighed in but to stay on topic) I maintain that it depends on what your expectations were going in.

 

Thanks Zilla. Yeah, I've seen this before about the headers. Emailed Stillen today and they confirmed it... said the headers result in a loss of 1 pound of boost. As a performance newbie and a consumer, I'm ready to believe, and all in favor of taking the advice and saving $600 for new exhaust headers.

But as a guy with a B.S. in Physics, I'm struggling to understand how headers that add HP to a N/A engine won't add HP to a F/I engine. It raises some interesting questions: Like, how can making the engine work harder on the exhaust stroke produce a net increase in performance? Are there dyno results to prove this? And if the more restricted stock headers are better with the S/C, why wouldn't headers MORE restricted than stock help even more? I'm wondering if a decrease in measured boost pressure isn't necessarily equivalent to a decrease in HP. The amount of air that Stillen is pushing into the engine is directly proportional to RPM... period. Consider an N/A engine: with more efficient flow from anything--intake, headers, etc--more power = greater vacuum (i.e. DROP) in manifold pressure, right? Could that be what's happening with the boost pressure on an F/I engine, when you add better headers?

Like I said, when you've got a salesman at Stillen trying to talk you out of a sale, it's wise to listen. Still, it's an intriguing question...

 

You know, I've thought about this some more, and had a few more glasses of wine, and I think I'm right about the header issue.

On a pair of identical N/A engines, if you tell me there's 15 inHg vacuum intake manifold pressure on one, and a 16 inHg vacuum on the other, I will tell you that the latter one--the one with LESS absolute pressure at the manifold--is making more power. That's because it's sucking in air faster, and the increase in velocity produces the pressure drop.

That has to be what's happening if people are measuring a drop in boost pressure from better headers. Like I said, the amount of air the Stillen puts into the intake is directly proportional to RPM. Fixed quantity. So if you add freer-flowing exhaust headers, you would EXPECT the performance gain to show in terms of lower intake manifold pressure. Another way of saying this is that in the first engine, the S/C has to generate 8psi of boost to put a certain amount of air into the engine... on the second one, with the better headers, the S/C only has to generate 7 psi of boost to push in the same amount of air. That means it's pulling less power off the crank to produce the same result.

Bottom line: unless there are dyno results proving me wrong, I'm going to say that a 1 psi drop in boost pressure is a pretty significant argument IN FAVOR of the headers with F/I...