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For those of you who aren't stupid enough to get your parts from ebay, the rev9 kit is a $1700 knock off of the turbonetics/treadstone kits. You can manage to use this kit, but you'll more than likely have some serious issues that need to be taken care of. For basic install instructions, use this pdf: http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...install-70.pdf
**This may not apply to everyone, this is what I personally went through**
1st problem:
The pipe that connects both headers together has a serious restriction inside of it. No bigger than half an inch in diameter.
This was fixed by cutting a square hole in the opposite end of the pipe (where the red arrow points), widening the restriction to the proper size, and re welding the square shut.
Problem 2:
The v band fitment leading from the drivers side header is awful. Never try to connect v band flanges that don't sit flush because they will leak.
Cut the pipes and bend them until the flanges sit flush. Then re weld the cuts.
**Be careful who you pay to weld your ****!!!** I paid a shop to do this sense it had to be on the car for proper fitment. These are the welds they left me. The shop tried to hid these
welds by putting exhaust wrap over it lol.
Problem 3:
The flange for the wastegate had a hole in the corner that would allow it to leak. Fixed through a simple tack weld then grounded flat. Still crazy that the kits welds are this bad.
Problem 4:
This cold side pipe sits very close to the crank pulley. The tabs that mount the pipe to the engine had to be bent in order to mount up properly. Not a huge deal but definitely something you should not ignore.
Other ****:
Don't use their wastegate. It seems to be decently constructed, but I still wouldn't trust it. I'd recommend to go with a trusted brand like tial.
Don't use their v band clamps either. They break easily and leak. Go with ticon 2 inch and 2.5 inch v bands, they're cheap worked well for me.
All silicone couplings and t bolt clamps worked well for me.
The included bov is adjustable and worked for me.
Oil lines and fittings were ok too. For the oil return I used a pan spacer rather than drilling into my upper oil pan.
I didn't end up using the included turbo. Long story short, the turbo blew up on the dyno because the oil feed line was not routed properly lol. I am running a precision 6266 instead.
Overall the kit is ***. You get what you pay for. With that being said, this still was thousands of dollars cheaper than any other alternative. I have this kit on my daily at 9psi. Been running it for 3500 miles with no issues. **knock on wood**
v bands bent so easily I broke 2 of them just by taking them on and off once. The one I didnt break started leaking badly. I can take on and off the ticon v bands all day with no issues
Stinks there isn't a huge market for quality twin turbo kits for the G anymore... feasibility is the issue... most folks who have Gs typically don't want to throw that kind of money into a car that old.
I am glad to see someone detail out what it takes to install this kit instead of just shitting on it. for 1900 you can have a ok turbo kit, does it need work? yep! I am fixing to order this same kit next week, Here are my plans and tell me if you see any issues.
Stage 3 rebuild kit from Z1 8.8 compression with .20 over.
700 cc DW injectors
255 LPH Pump
tial wastegate
z1 oil pan spacer
z1 ac line kit from momentum
Heat Wrapping on all hot side pipes.
Should i take the kit while my builder is rebuilding the engine and have all the vbands cut off and re-welded with better ones? Or should I wait and see how the fitment is? I know my builder does not have a wielder. Hes a master mechanic but is doing this engine rebuild for me in his garage. I do plan to have the cross over pipe taken down cut open fixed and re-wielded as per your first picture.
If you go with aftermarket headers (which id highly recommend for flow reasons) the kit may need work depending on what headers you end up going with. Take either the block or the entire assembled car to a shop with a good reputation to get welded.
Personally, I'd run higher compression, like 9.5:1 so you dont need to throw as much boost to reach your power goals. But thats just me, i'd call your tuner and tell them your hp goals and stuff.
Slight thread revival here, but I have to thank the OP for posting pictures of the defects. I'm starting to run out of patience with the curve ***** that life keeps throwing at me as my initial plan was to go with the JWT twin turbo kit, but this Rev9 option is starting catch my interest as time goes on. So it's good to have a heads up about what to look for which needs attention.
Anyway, does the PTE 6266 bolt up to the turbo manifold of this kit? Or did you need to run a different manifold as well??
It'll bolt up as long as the turbo has a t3 flange. If you can, just remove the flange and weld a v band, itll make installation and removal of the turbo 10x easier. With a 6266 I reach full boost at around 3500 rpm so you wont have a huge disadvantage to run a single. Plus you can take on and off the turbo kit without pulling the engine and from what I remember hearing you can't do that with a tt setup.
Move your upstream 02 sensor so you can rotate your downpipe and access the sensors. the circled area is where I moved mine. The kit wants you to put the sensor at the very top of this circled pipe but mine wouldn't fit so I had a bung welded to relocate it.
Move your upstream 02 sensor so you can rotate your downpipe and access the sensors. the circled area is where I moved mine. The kit wants you to put the sensor at the very top of this circled pipe but mine wouldn't fit so I had a bung welded to relocate it.
04-19-2019, 06:04 PM
