I am planning to hook up my car to the bottle. i have Crawford plenum, stillen exhaust and intake, UR pulleys, stillen ground wires, and soon test pipes. I am just wondering if their is anything i could do to make sure my car is going to be able to handle it without a problem. I am planning to use only a 80 shot. I currently have the NOS kit. HELP PLEASE i NEED more power any advise. My goal is LOW 13 down the 1/4

 

be smart and keep the 80 shot jet. none of your bolt ons you have will be effected. with an 80 shot on the g, theres no worries about our internals. are you going wet or dry?

 

Like Bill says - staying w/80 hp jets on a "wet" kit will be safe. I have all of your mods plus several others & I haven't had any problems with my ZEX kit which is now up to 100 hp jets. I ran the 75 hp setup for 2 months & just recently moved up in power. Of course, I have both the J&S Safeguard & NX Maximizer on my car to ensure that enough timing is pulled ( Safeguard ) or the the air/fuel ratio doesn't go lean ( Maximizer coupled w/AEM wideband O2 ). This would probably be overkill on your car ( U haven't reflashed your ECU, have ya? ) but since I have the T/S reflash for N/A motors ( very aggressive ignition timing ) & don't want to have them do the L-spec reflash ( essentially moving the timing back to stock but keeping the rev limiter up @ 7100 rpms ) because the car's a DOG w/o the extra timing . Kinda the best of both worlds right now!

 

gene -

i havent done my complete set up yet. whats the deal with the J&S Safeguard. I dont have a ts reflash. do you recommend getting the J&S?

 

Bill - Based on the threads I've read here & on my350z.com, it SEEMS that U can reasonably safely spray up to a 100 shot by running 91/93 octane ( depends on availability ) & running 1 step colder plugs as long as you're running the factory spec'd ignition maps ( no TechnoSquare relash unless it's the L-spec ( "limited" spec ) which basically only raises the rev limiter to 7100 rpms ). Please, if I'm wrong here don't hesitate to correct me since i think T/S is an outstanding company!! My problem is that I didn't intend to run nitrous so after adding all my N/A mods ( in my signature ) I needed the aggressive T/S reflash for N/A cars to awaken my VQ ( & it did!! ).
When I decided to spray, I was told by T/S that even a 35 hp shot was risky because of the serious timing maps of the reflash. The Safeguard gives me the best of both worlds. I can keep the N/A reflash specs which allow the car to max out the N/A mods I've done but when I want to "bottle feed" my baby , the J&S will detect any individual cylinder knocking & pull timing ( up to 10 degrees ) as needed. Since I run on the motor 90% of the time I feel good about using the nitrous only when I need it ( or just wanna play!! )
As a side note, I think the NX Maximizer is awesome!! It allows me to dial in my nitrous in each gear ( allowing for traction issues ) based on progressive injection & also fade it out before redline kicks in. It also helps me insure that I don't blow things up by going lean. It has an input from my AEM wideband sensor & when my A/F reaches a lean 13.5 ratio ( my adjustable choice ), the Maximizer shuts down the power to the ZEX nitrous module. I've had my Palm PDA hooked up to this double system & have seen both units save me! The J&S has red lights which indicate knock & the Maximizer S/D my system multiple times while I was dialing in the system ( verified by my PDA ).
This might be overkill but I feel better knowing that both units are on duty & reinforcing MY obligitory efforts to keep the V-6 intact by running 93 octane + occasional toulene blended in; pulling my plugs every 2 months to check them & changing the nitrous filter every 6 months.
If U get the Safeguard, make sure that it is one of John's upgraded versions for our ignition systems. A few of his prototype models could burn up our coil packs but I think he's on top of the problem now. Good luck!!

http://www.jandssafeguard.com/

 

thanks for the info gene. ts doesn't have a reflash for the x becasue they had no x in cali to use for testing. so i wont need the j&s. but im going to look at the nx maximizer. that and the wideband a/f sensor is gonna run me a couple more bucks. i have to see what i could afford.

what rpm does your maximizer switch the nitrous on at. im curious to how i could launch my car to get the most out of nitrous.

 

Bill - ZEX & NX both recommend a lower limit of 2000 rpms for initiation of their systems but I'd GUESS that's based on first gear traction concerns. Currently, I can't hook up on my Nitto street tires below 3000 rpms with the 75 hp jets ( have an A/T w/2800 rpm T/C ) so I've got the Maximizer set up for a progressive ramp-up ( in first gear only ) beginning @
that same 3k & quickly ramping to maximium injection by 4k. This seems to be the best I can do at those jets as by the time the Nittos quit spinning @ 3k the nitrous injection begins & I'll barely haze them through the rest of the gear. I should back off on the 1st gear injection because I know that traction's gone away BUT it's fun!! Since traction's seems to be a problem mostly in 1st gear, I have the NX piece starting injection @ 2k on 2nd through 5th ( yes, I'll squeeze up in 5th gear! but with the factory fuel system I've noticed that things start getting lean up there ) but ramping fully open almost immediately. I figure that the stock injectors are at 100% duty cycle & they're "being all they can be" up there in 5th.
I recently changed to 100 hp jetting - found a ZEX tech that admitted their solenoids on their import "wet" kit are like NX's & good for 175 hp BUT since they hadn't "officially" marketed it as such they didn't have validated jetting sizes they could recommend so I'm kinda winging it here ( until I can get on a dyno ). I'll be tuning on the system this weekend but I KNOW that my 1st gear settings must change because there's NO traction to be found there now!!
I highly recommend this pricey piece ( $600 or so ) because of it's tunability ( replaces a window switch & has datalogging capability as well ) plus the safety feature if U couple it to a wideband sensor. Good luck with your nitrous system, Bill & feel free to ask any other questions!

 

thanks. ill pm you if i have question during install. thanks again.

 

Just turn off VDC and run from 1st gear like I do. And Hang on for a wild ride! Also I reccomend using Spark Plugs 2 steps colder than stock.........

 

question about the plugs - of you go two steps colder, and don't spray everyday, won't you run into fouling a lot sooner?

 

Jasper - That's what I've been led to believe but I think it also depends on your driving habits. If U're pretty aggressive & run the car hard then the plugs should stay clean. If U drive fairly mildly then, yes, I'd think that 2 step colder plugs would be more likely to "load" up. FWIW - I'm at 100 hp jetting w/1 step plugs & everything looks OK ( pulled & read them yesterday - what a pain to get to but necessary for engine longevity & system feedback )

 

gene - thanks for the info. i'm looking into a very similar setup you've got, except i'll be going with stillen for the valve body upgrade. the j&s safeguard, nx maximizer, zex wet kit, purge kit, and i was also looking into a bottle warmer. socalted is installing the exact setup i was looking into. is there any particular reason you felt the need to up your jets? other than the simple habituation? i was looking into the 75 shot, did you just feel the need to go 'faster'?
so if you've got the maximzer, you don't need a msd cutoff switch? you actually get that much tunability with that? could please elaborate on what that thing can do? i don't have one, and the website does not explain it that well.
also, how difficult is the install for the j&s safeguard?

 

Jasper - Horsepower is addictive!! That's my answer to the increased jetting & I'm sticking to it!! Well, I did run the 55 hp jets while I dialed in my system ( making sure that the J&S was working & the plugs looked OK ). Then I jumped to the 75's & after awhile those felt "slow". I'll PROBABLY stop with the 100 hp setup for the time being as I need to go back & retune the Maximizer since I have virtually NO traction below 4k rpms in 1st gear ( street tires ). I'm used to domestic V-8's & those can typically handle a 125 hp shot w/no problems & I had a 175 hp setup on my Lingenfelter 'Vette but that was a built motor.
The Maximizer does all a window switch does & so much more! U can pulse your solenoids ( making the system "progressive" ); set it for different levels of nitrous ( within the limits of the fixed jets, of course - I can only spray about 60% of the 100 hp setup in 1st gear but the remaining gears are good for all of the power ); U can tie in the J&S to the unit so that the J&S will automatically retard x degrees of timing once the nitrous system is armed ( whether it's needed or not - so far on our 93 octane gas I've only seen the Safeguard pull a few degrees in a cylinder or 2 & those times were on back to back runs & on hot Louisiana days ) & U can also interface a wideband O2 sensor output ( I have an AEM ) into the Maximizer & use that A/F feedback data to S/D the nitrous if U go lean ( mine's set @ 13.2 ).
Nitrous has come a LONG way since the mid 80's when I first started using it - I'm 46 now & I wish there had been a Maximizer back then. Never lost a motor ( knock on wood ) but a unit like the NX would have won a few more races just by allowing the tunability it does. I can't imagine running squeeze w/o it!!
The J&S was relatively straightforward to wire in but I have the ECU splice harness from Autosport Wiring which made things easier. I also have a background in stereo installing so I know my way around a soldering iron & shrink wrap. It took me about 45 minutes & that was taking my time & double checking all the correct wires before soldering. Any good mechanic or even a stereo installer can do it.

 

which safeguard device did you get?
can the maximizer (after tuning), run by itself, without a pda? i'm asking because i don't want one, but i could get one for the original install.
did you get the aem wideband sensor (bosch) with the gauge or just the sensor and wire that up to the maximzer?
sorry about the questions but i'm about to start this later this week. thanks.

 

as long as i run 75 shot with the stock ecu, can't the ecu pull the few degrees of timing that might be needed now and then just like it would if you ran 87 octane?