I don't post much, but just wanted to let you all know my car (05 coupe 6MT) which has been having a problem since I purchased it about a year and a half ago, is getting a new long block.

Believe it or not, they did a short block replacement first. Still had the same issue, losing about a quart every thousand miles.

With this new engine, they are telling me not to go over 3000 rpms before 1000 miles, then to come back for an oil change at 1000 miles. The 3000 rpm restriction sounds rediculous to me, but I'll do it. I just hope that the same problem doesn't arise, because I broke this car in by the book.. i.e. don't go over 4 grand for 1200 miles. Ok.. I pressed it maybe twice in break in. But nothing crazy.

My thoughts about breaking in the car this time.. to accelerate hard a few times after 300 miles. Run it hard but for 2 or 3 minutes a day, because I'm thinking that babying it would not be good. I could use some opinions about this.

Anyway.. I'll pick it up tonite. Here's to hoping they haven't f'd up my new engine, or my clutch somehow.

Wish me luck.

 

I guess it really depends on what "New" long block means. If it means factory-fresh in a crate with Japanese charaters on it, then I would be inclined to give it full throttle early in short bursts after 50 miles or so. Like you say, hit it a couple times a day to redline under load to seat the rings properly. Just don't do any sustained operation above 4-5K and make sure it is totally warmed up to operating temp before you do.

If it is a recondition of your old block from a local machine shop, then I would be more careful and follow their recommendations. My guess is that it is a recondition since they are wanting a change at 1000 miles. This is usually a sign that more localized break-in wear is expected and want that break-in oil out of there soon to purge any metallic contamination.

Sorry to hear or your saga, but I would ask what you are getting exactly and who did the work. In any case, check your oil frequently (daily) during this process to monitor usage. Keep good records if things don't go as planned.

 

Here's a crazy idea: Follow the instructions, to the letter, no exceptions.

Here's another crazy idea: DO NOT get into the habit of decelerating your car using engine braking. If in the habit, lose it. Decelerate the car with the brakes.

There has to be an explanation as to why oil consumption problems are almost exclusive to cars with with manual transmissions. Barring the possibility of a defective part or design that is exclusive to cars equipped with a manual transmission (and AFAIK no one had stated or documented such), how the cars are being driven might provide clues to the cause of the problem. In other threads I have read where MT drivers who have had the consumption problem are in the habit of doing a lot of engine-braking. Engine-braking creates an unusually high vacuum in the intake manifold which may be drawing oil past rings and valve guide seals into the combustion chamber, where it is burned.

 

I've got an 03 6MT and engine brake all the time. No oil comsuption, ever. There is another issue with all this.

 

As far as I know the engine is new from the factory. Infiniti Corporate keeps ID records on these things. They are gonna have to tear down my old VQ.

I think for better or worse, I'm going to stick to what they are telling me. I do think I would be better off doing a semi-hard break in. But for the record: (just in case this engine is a dud too) I won't.

Gwiz, I followed the break in period by the book when I first got her. That's why I was a bit leery about babying the engine. Also, I rev-match. No engine breaking here my friend. And if/when I do, it isn't at extreme rpms.

So anyway.. just got her back. I need to call back tomorrow to see if it has to be city driving, or if I can just cruise. The clutch is already worn in, so I assume I can cruise 1000 miles if I choose.

 

Agree 100%.

 

Although it's great for you, the fact that your individual car does not consume oil proves nothing. My own personal suspicion that engine braking may be a cause of the oil consumption is merely a guess based on anectdotal evidence, but so far it's the best guess I have seen posted. I too have no proof, just an idea.

 

The owner's manual cautions drivers of new cars to not maintain a constant engine/vehicle speed for too long. I would think that the break-in for a crate motor would be just like new car break-in.

 

Well, there's either no engine braking or there is, can't be both. AFAIK rev-matching has to do with increasing engine speed to match the higher revs needed when downshifting into a lower gear in order to accelerate.

As far as engine breaking, well, yeah, the engine broke.

 

"Here's another crazy idea: DO NOT get into the habit of decelerating your car using engine braking. If in the habit, lose it. Decelerate the car with the brakes."

Well, my point is that engine braking is not bad for an engine as long as you don't exceed what it was built for (i.e. don't engine brake at 7500 rpms). There are thousands of Gs on the road and only a small number have been having this problem. Its either some bad parts going in or a bad person on the line doing a bad job. But don't lead people to believe that engine braking is bad when all your doing is speculating as you stated.

 

Do as you like of course. But if it's a factory fresh motor, I would have no qualms about getting on it early. It's one of the most debated topics, but I believe it is beneficial for an engine to experience full pressure and RPM in short duration early in life. Daily, short freeway onramp blasts get the rings seated nicely.

I have done this on 4-5 new cars and none ever used oil in excess and ran perfectly the day I said goodbye to them. Lots of other stuff starting to fail, but the motors were always solid. The G has almost 80K on it and has never used more than a qt. every 4K miles. Usually a qt. every 5K.

 

Rev-matching still takes the load off of engine braking. Yes it is more useful when taking corners, but you can still blip the throttle with out having to accelerate. Try it /practice it sometime (if you haven't already).

That's beside the point. This car has a race bred engine. Engine braking or not, It should not be having this problem. *Period.*

My guess is simple: Engine design flaw.

 

Care to explain why there are still some 15 year old Honda motors with manual transmissions are not burning oil at all?

 

Probably more to do with the new rev-up engine than anything else. Before the rev-up, there was much less complaining about oil consumption.

 

There was another thread on this and 90 percent of those that said they have a problem were pre-rev-up engine. I don't believe it is the rev-up engine, but something else. Like the other poster stated, why only Manual cars? That is a good question.