I just recently bought a 2005 G35 Coupe 5AT and traded in my 2006 Cobalt SS. My Cobalt SS ran the 1/4 mile in 13.4 seconds @ 104 mph. I got sick of all the issues with the Cobalt's forced induction so with the G35 I would like to stay NA and still achieve the same performance as my cobalt.

I've been looking at tuning options and am very confused about exactly what would fit me with this project. The Cobb seems like a nice unit but I'm not sure if it will be the easiest thing to use to get the 13.4 time im looking for. Also, I guess I just want to make sure this is possible to do without FI,Nitrous or meth. Can I do just intake,exhaust,headers,spacer, and tuning to meet my goal?

You can buy intake, headers, exhaust, spacer, test pipes, ecu......spend about 2k. But you will never hit 13.4 (possible close if you add slicks)

You will never be hitting those times without FI or Nitrous.

What kind of times am I looking at with all the NA work I can do?

I believe the fastest so far is a 13.6 @103.6 with full bolt ons and drag radials. (according to drag times) also a manual

Street tires and bolt ons you can get low 14s. Possibly 13.8 under really good conditions. But as an auto you will probably have to upgrade your valve body and get 4.08 final drive.

You can easily hit low 13s if you just do nitrous. Also would save you quite a bit of money.

You can do it, but you have to put the G on a strict diet. Rip out eveyting but the seat and the steering wheel. These are heavy pigs.

what if we added cams and lsd intake manifold and the gears above stated but no valve body work? All on street tires. Full interior. I like to race cars the way i drive them on the street minus lowering the tire pressure at the track.

Only one person, that I can recall, made even close to 400 crank HP and they spent upwards of $40K. Cosworth everything and individual throttle bodies with outboard EMU

This is what you get:

Motordyne plenum spacer
Intake, CAI or regular intake, doesnt matter
Headers
Exhaust
High Flow Cats, or Test Pipes
Valve Body Upgrade for the 5AT
Cams
Tune at R/T Tuning in PA
Brakes (help save weight)
Light Wheels

That should make you very close.

Dont even think about cams and stuff. Much cheapers just to buy a used FI kit around 3k.

Pretty much only way you will ever keep up with another FI car, is with FI.

Honestly, kind of a stupid plan. You do all that, you are looking at 8k or more to make about 300-310 rwhp.

Much cheaper just to get a used FI kit for 3-4k, put down 380-400 rwhp.

^if you are looking to hit 380-400 rwhp i think it is necessary to build up the motor again???

Kind of stupid to get a slower AT. MAYBE you could hit that time with a manual and a good amount of bolt-ons, maybe throwing in some racing seats would help with the weight while keeping a full interior. Do a quick FI kit and you could be into the high 12's.

I'd do the N/A mods over the FI mods any day.
I plan to keep my G for a while, I need to get through
college with it, 4 years if I don't go to grad school. =/

F/I is much harder on the engine, the car wont last
QUITE as long if you go FI. Plus, it is more fun installing
the smaller mods your self. I don't think there is anything
easy to install when you go FI.

Many people install the stillen/vortech themselves. You can easily do it one day. Also not have any issues running it for multiple years.

Plus it is much easier to install a vortech kit, than it would to install new cams/final gears/AT valve body

In the end it all depends on how much you beat on your car.