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Can't remove insignia glue w/ goo gone, tips?

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Old 01-31-2011, 11:10 PM
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Can't remove insignia glue w/ goo gone, tips?

So I used some dental floss and took off the G35 and INFINITI letters, but I've now doused the back of my car with two whole goo gone bottles and no results. I usually clean the area with soap and water, then wet a towel with goo gone and rub it, on or simply pour it on and rub really hard on the leftover glue. I then wait a few minutes and try scraping it away, usually with a towel, then I get angry and use my fingernail but nothing works. It's maybe 70% gone but the rest simply wont go away. It's really cold where I am, should i wait for spring or is there a better product?
 
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Old 02-01-2011, 03:12 AM
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Two whole bottles is way too much... I used like 1/10, and that was my first time doing it too.

Apply the Goo Gone and let it soak, and chip it away at it very little by little with a towel using your nail to lightly and carefully scrape it off. Some of the adhesive will come right off, but the bit that stays is the hardest to remove.

It took me a while to do mine, but I eventually got it doing it this way.

If it still doesn't work, wash it off with soap and water, and try applying some heat (blow dryer, heat gun) to it LIGHTLY, just so the adhesive turns soft again.
 
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Old 02-01-2011, 09:46 AM
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3M makes a great product called General Purpose Adhesive Remover. Most of the autoparts stores carry it. It would be a good idea if you could get the car in a garage and warm the area with a hair dryer to soften the adhesive before use. Although initially this product is expensive it works on almost everything. Anytime I find unidentifiable goop on my paint that soap and water will not remove this is the first thing I reach for.
 
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Old 02-01-2011, 10:36 AM
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Also use heat, that will help. I did mine with Goo Gone and a heat gun and it all came off. I had to use my finger nail i belive to get the last bits off. Just becareful
 
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Old 02-01-2011, 10:50 AM
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Heat gun ^^^. It has to be hot otherwise it wont come off.
 
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Old 02-01-2011, 12:04 PM
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It took me about 20 minutes to get it off with Goof Off. Combine with some elbow grease and it will come off.
 
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Old 02-01-2011, 02:38 PM
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x5 on adding heat. I had a lot of the residue left after removing the lettering. It took a blowdryer and a lot of finger strength but it came off. id say in all it took 1hr
 
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Old 02-01-2011, 02:45 PM
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Yeah your gonna want to get it buffed also so u don't see the ghost images of the letters..
 
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Old 02-01-2011, 03:30 PM
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Key is to let the goo gone settle for like 20 min before wiping it.
 
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Old 02-01-2011, 05:41 PM
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^ yes, but the weather must permit too..

dude is in Philly, no way anytime soon you'll be able to finish this "project" .

looks like a massive storm is headed that way
 
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Old 02-01-2011, 11:39 PM
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heat gun. took them off in no time, then i removed the extra glue. then i buffed out the shadow
 
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Old 02-01-2011, 11:58 PM
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Heat gun works wonders and I used a little rubbing compound to get the little stuff out after the big adhesive chunks were gone.
 
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Old 02-02-2011, 01:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Songle6MT
Heat gun works wonders and I used a little rubbing compound to get the little stuff out after the big adhesive chunks were gone.
Do not use rubbing compound, you can do more damage to your clear coat than good! Since you live in Philly you'll need to warm up the area with heat gun or hair dryer. Put the GooGone on a rag and saturate the glue several times then gently rub/pick it off. After all the glue is gone do the whole trunk lid with and item like ScratchX, then wax and buff to a shine. Now you'll look as clean as the rest of us, "No Junk on your Trunk!"
Gary
 
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Old 02-02-2011, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by gary c
Do not use rubbing compound, you can do more damage to your clear coat than good! Since you live in Philly you'll need to warm up the area with heat gun or hair dryer. Put the GooGone on a rag and saturate the glue several times then gently rub/pick it off. After all the glue is gone do the whole trunk lid with and item like ScratchX, then wax and buff to a shine. Now you'll look as clean as the rest of us, "No Junk on your Trunk!"
Gary
Any particular reason not to use rubbing compound? I'm talking about the stuff you use with a buffer. It would be just like buffing that section and the area around it to get it to blend with the other paint. That's what I did and it didn't do any damage but would like to hear/learn about what it could possibly do so I can learn and do it the right way!
 
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Old 02-02-2011, 10:45 AM
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Rubbing compound will leave behind a haze which is actually tiny scratches. This is called micro marring and the only way to get rid of it is to then polish with progressively less abrasive compounds as well as less abrasive polishing pads. Until all signs of haze have been polished out. You then use a good sealant or wax. I would bet that you do not have a black car and that your car has not been detailed. As mentioned above if you were doing this by hand Scratch-X is a very good single compound that works well. You would still need to use a good polish after Scratch-X.
 

Last edited by BlkCoupe; 02-02-2011 at 10:49 AM.


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