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Quote:
^^ I would actually do this first then if it doesn't work hit up auto zoneOriginally Posted by STAP IT
hmmm. disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, and reconnect it after a few minutes. see if it comes back.
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Instead of freaking out and waiting for your buddy, take it to any auto parts store, O'Reilly's, Advanced, Auto Zone, and get your code pulled. No one charges for that.
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Advance Auto Parts will check the codes at any time for free...you just might have to look up the code to find the exact definition of it. I'd start with that though.
The oil consupmtion problem is relatively slow....you're usually looking at a quart or so about every 1k miles. Even if it has this problem, it's not necessarily the end of the word....just throw a quart or so in there every 1k miles and check your dipstick periodically...minor PITA. With 33k miles though, you should be still under warranty...depending on year....so if it does have the oil consupmtion problem, I'd take it to the dealer and fight for a new engine.
The pedal reset is just a fancy way of resetting your ECU without disconnecting the battery....disconnect the negative terminal on your battery for a couple hours and it will do the same thing. I've found the pedal sequence to be very tedious...it's not as easy as it sounds....atleast it wasn't for me.
The oil consupmtion problem is relatively slow....you're usually looking at a quart or so about every 1k miles. Even if it has this problem, it's not necessarily the end of the word....just throw a quart or so in there every 1k miles and check your dipstick periodically...minor PITA. With 33k miles though, you should be still under warranty...depending on year....so if it does have the oil consupmtion problem, I'd take it to the dealer and fight for a new engine.
The pedal reset is just a fancy way of resetting your ECU without disconnecting the battery....disconnect the negative terminal on your battery for a couple hours and it will do the same thing. I've found the pedal sequence to be very tedious...it's not as easy as it sounds....atleast it wasn't for me.
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pedal reset took me one try lol... its not hard
and iv hear the battery reset, your supposed to wait 12 hours?? iv never done it can anyone clarify the time?
either way pedal reset= 5 minutes max
battery reset= more time than its worth
but yes Pepboys, autozone etc will give you the code for free, however if you want the full diagnosis youll have to pay.
and iv hear the battery reset, your supposed to wait 12 hours?? iv never done it can anyone clarify the time?
either way pedal reset= 5 minutes max
battery reset= more time than its worth
but yes Pepboys, autozone etc will give you the code for free, however if you want the full diagnosis youll have to pay.
ok so just wanted to fill everyone in on what i found out. So after driving the car without any problems for about a week withthe check engine light on it finally messed up. I left a stop light and had no power, it would barely move. so i managed to get over to the side of the road, and shut my car off and turned it right baack on and didnt have any mroe problems. So i drove it fo another week after that problem and finally had time for my buddy to hook up his code reader to it, and this thing is amazing i think it ran him almost $5000, but anyways hooked it up and read it and i dont remember exactly what it said but i believe it was something like "throttle positioning sensor wrong voltage, or throttle position wrong" im not 100% sure but he cleared it yesterday after noon and i drove it all evening and then this morning and it hasnt popped back on yet. Any idea on why that code would have thrown? I asked him if i should do the "reset" that was talked about in the above post but he said it should of reset it when he cleared the code. any input?
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Clearing a code does not magically make your
problem go away. If there is an issue with your TPS circuit or the TPS itself you check engine light is just going to come back on again. You need to figure out exactly what the issue is and either replace your TPS if that's the issue or find the issue within the circuit if that's the case as well.
Get your buddy to hook up his magical $5000 device and get the engine code (numbers) its throwing and post it.
problem go away. If there is an issue with your TPS circuit or the TPS itself you check engine light is just going to come back on again. You need to figure out exactly what the issue is and either replace your TPS if that's the issue or find the issue within the circuit if that's the case as well.
Get your buddy to hook up his magical $5000 device and get the engine code (numbers) its throwing and post it.
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If you haven't tried a TB reset I recommend doing that first, if that doesn't solve your problem then you may need to replace your throttle body. The G does not have a stand-alone sensor like most cars so the entire throttle body needs to be replaced if that's your issue. Like I said though try a TB reset first and see if that solves your issue.
If you do need the TB:
RockAuto has it for $108 ($30 core)
O'Reilly's has it for $115 ($10 core)
If you do need the TB:
RockAuto has it for $108 ($30 core)
O'Reilly's has it for $115 ($10 core)