after being disappointed by the stock brake setup for awhile i've decided to finally replace the spongy oem lines with some braided steel lines. i don't do any aggressive driving where braking is a big issue but, i do want to improve my stopping power for my daily driving. i've ordered a complete set of russell brake lines to improve my braking. is there anything i should know or do before installing the lines? i've read alittle about the install on here. i see many people bleed the whole brake system and refill with new brake fluid but, i plan on just capping the lines once removed and topping the system with new fluid when done. is this ok?

i'm really looking forward to feeling the difference with the new brake lines. when slowing down from higher speeds i'm fine. it's when i come to a complete stop that the brakes feel bad. the pedal just feels spongy and wants to travel. i replaced the rotors and pads not too long ago because the rotors were warped from when i got the car. the car didn't shake while braking after the install of the new rotors and pads so just that felt great to me. now i want the pedal to feel as good as it should and not travel as far as it does.

as i said, if there's anything i should know before installing the new lines please share. also, if there's anything else i should know that'll improve my braking please share. i've got an 05 G sedan and i want it stop as comfortably as it rides.

 

http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?i...&partno=309360

Brake lines only change the feel of the brake pedal, this will actually help improve response time of your brakes.

Beyond that, if you want better braking without upgrading to a big brake kit, then slotted rotors and some good brake pads will help a lot as well.

 

You're going to need to bleed/flush the system. I replaced two front calipers and my brake pedal would go to the floor when pressed...had to use the e-brake all the way to the dealership to get the flush! Normally something I would do, but was on short on time and didn't have a second person.

 

has anyone actually tried that stillen brace?

my new rotors are drilled. my pads are just basic pads. i guess i could try some better pads but, which pads are going to make that much of a difference?

if i cap the lines on the car after the brake lines are taken off can i just install the new lines and make sure all the air is out?

 

That stillen product... Does it work on all g's

 

There is no way of not capping the lines since brake fluid is going to spill everywhere if you don't (and contain the spillage). Once you put the new line on, it will automatically have air in it since it's "empty". The only way to make sure ALL the air is out, will be to bleed each caliper once the lines are fully installed. So be prepared to bleed them and make sure the reservoir doesn't empty. Although, it may be a great time to completely flush the system if you have never done it before.

 

I got stop techs for my G but havent put them on yet....hopefully within the next month ill be putting them on =)

 

Stops are so good, I had $50 CarQuest rotors on before, might as well use a piece of cardboard

 

my idea was to open the bleeder valve on the caliper while putting the new lines on so the air in the new lines can escape. is that not gonna work? i was just thinking if i did that on each caliper it'd be easier for the air to escape instead of letting it rise further into the system.

if that isn't going to work then what is the proper process for bleeding the system?

 

FROM FSM:

 

I'm sure you can find some reviews on the brace. The function of the brace is to keep the master cylinder from jolting when you step on the brakes, minimizing braking response.

I'm not a huge fan of drilled rotors not only because of the issue of improperly drilled rotors falling apart, but also because we don't really need the cooling driving on the streets. But I do like slotted rotors because the slots are meant to help draw in the brake pads under heavy use. Race compounds will give off a gas when it heats up, very slightly distancing the brake pad from the rotor, these slots help disperse the gasses, some say they also act like a suction cup.

Just keep in mind that if you want to be **** about it, the drilled holes and/or slots minimize contact surface with the brake pads, actually hindering braking more than it really helps when you don't need them.

As for brake pads, I don't care for anything fancy, or metallic - they don't work as well anyways. Pure race pads will squeak and become too annoying for daily driving, so I usually go with a good street performance brake pad made for light track use, something like Project Mu B-Force. They are a bit dustier than others, but not as bad as other similar performing brake pads either. Not sure if you'd even need slotted rotors with any of these.

 

thank you. i've never used a clear hose before while doing this and i've only done it on 2 wheel disc cars before. i've pretty much been doing it right. i've always just put a bottle on the valve to catch the fluid tho. thanks again for the info.

 

i've never heard of drilled rotors falling apart. that's crazy. to me it seems like the drilled rotors would do a better job of expelling the built up gases under heavy braking because the gases would just go through the holes and expel through the center of the rotor. this is all under heavy braking tho which doesn't apply to most of us. i just like the look of the drilled rotors behind wheels really.

i'm sure these new lines will do the job. does anyone know if the newer g's have the same kind of spongy braking?

 

I bought one for my 05 sedan and it didn't fit, only worked on the 03-04 models. Not sure about the coupes though.

 

tonite i decided to change the front driver side brake line since my car is gonna be sitting for about a week (long story). it wasn't as bad as i thought it was going to be. whenever i took off the brake line i thought fluid would just be flowing out but, that wasn't the case at all. i had prepared the garage floor so it wouldn't get brake fluid everywhere and didn't even need it. the fluid came out of course but, not bad. before i began tightening the new brake line i took some napkin and put it through the caliper side line loop so the fluid wouldn't get everywhere. after i took off the old line i started tightening the new line and once tight removed the napkin and started tightening the other side of the line to the caliper. my fiance came out and pumped the brakes until it got hard then held the pedal down. i loosened the bleeder valve and watched alittle fluid and air go through the tubing i put on the valve. my fiance again pumped the pedal until it was hard and held it down again while i bled it. we went through this process about 5-7 times until i didn't see anymore air in the line and i called it a nite because my fiance was already half asleep when i had asked her to come out in the first place.

the rest will probably be done in a few days. i misplaced the clip that holds the brake line in place where it connects to the line on the car. hopefully they'll have a replacement at the parts store. anyway, i was wondering if anyone has used the one man bleeder kits? i've seen them before but, never used one. do these work well? how do they work?