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Related: What's the cheapest source for quality automotive fasteners? I think it would be a good idea to buy all new bolts for the underside of my G as that's where a lot of the suffering is coming from, stripping threads and worrying about stripping threads.
Check what 'grade' the existing fasteners are - likely Class 8.8 or 10.9 or 12.9. Just get fasteners that are as strong or stronger. You can buy them anywhere from Ace Hardware type stores to Lowes to places that focus just on fasteners (Fastenal, for instance).
Read post #3 and #5, you will probably get an idea why changing the diameter (and thus the velocity of the pulses) affects rasp. Switching diameter quickly (and then back again) affects velocity in negative ways.
Fortunately we did end up eliminating the rasp completely, but with both new resonators it was about as quiet as the sedan mid-pipe (a little too quiet). We think what got rid of the rasp in the end was the resonator immediately after the Y (top of the pic), which sorta lines up with the link you posted, saying in part that the rasp is introduced by the pulses coming together at a Y. It also happens to be similar to how Tony set up the Shockwave TDX2 - coincidence? Diameter changes might be one of the things that introduce rasp, but I think the resonated Y helps get rid of it.
To test the theory I kinda want to cut out the second resonator to see if having just one them immediately after the Y is still rasp free, but sounds a bit more like it did before the ART pipes. I spent most of Saturday playing with a few different muffler options but it's still not quite where I want it.
Either way, my G now contains parts off a 700hp car , I'm basically ready for Boneville
Oh, man...I want that. Where'd you get it and how much?
damn! I just looked up the parts for the two cowls and was shocked at the price. About 170 each side from infinitipartsusa. I thought they used to go for around 80. Ill save the $340 for more important repairs. My passanger side has a couple broken tabs. Might just have to buy a used one. A new one next to an old one just wouldnt look right
Side note: got my interstate battery replaced after 16 months under warranty. We'll see how this one holds up. It was hard watching the guy install it doing things I wouldn't do to my own car
Fortunately we did end up eliminating the rasp completely, but with both new resonators it was about as quiet as the sedan mid-pipe (a little too quiet). We think what got rid of the rasp in the end was the resonator immediately after the Y (top of the pic), which sorta lines up with the link you posted, saying in part that the rasp is introduced by the pulses coming together at a Y. It also happens to be similar to how Tony set up the Shockwave TDX2 - coincidence? Diameter changes might be one of the things that introduce rasp, but I think the resonated Y helps get rid of it.
To test the theory I kinda want to cut out the second resonator to see if having just one them immediately after the Y is still rasp free, but sounds a bit more like it did before the ART pipes. I spent most of Saturday playing with a few different muffler options but it's still not quite where I want it.
Either way, my G now contains parts off a 700hp car , I'm basically ready for Boneville
damn! I just looked up the parts for the two cowls and was shocked at the price. About 170 each side from infinitipartsusa. I thought they used to go for around 80. Ill save the $340 for more important repairs. My passanger side has a couple broken tabs. Might just have to buy a used one. A new one next to an old one just wouldnt look right
Side note: got my interstate battery replaced after 16 months under warranty. We'll see how this one holds up. It was hard watching the guy install it doing things I wouldn't do to my own car
I’ll gladly sell you my old ones at a reasonable price when I replace. It’s actually in very good shape, I’m just continuing on my restoration project and when I get my hood painted I’m just going to get this done at the same time for the sake of argument.
Btw, infinitipartsdeal.com is ALWAYS the cheapest parts of the online parts dealers.
Btw, infinitipartsdeal.com is ALWAYS the cheapest parts of the online parts dealers.
Unless amayama.com has it, but they seem to have recently cleared out all the G35 listings (out of production/easy availability I suppose). Too bad. The cheap shipping option was perfect when not in a hurry, and boy the prices were good.
Nice, if you want to clean up the bay a bit more take off the rubber ring under your oil cap. It looks very out of place when the plenum is shined up and the wires are tucked.
Bought a cheapo OBDII Bluetooth thingy, and used my old Samsung phone for a pretty useless little dash. Figured I could use it at some point in the future. Ended up swapping the MPG dial for mass air flow rate. I kinda figured there would be more useful information as I had planned on swapping the Nav unit for a small tablet, but I'm not sure how useful that would actually be now. Still no information on the oil, and the lovely 03 doesn't have an AFR at all soooooo.
Did whiteline compression rod bushings on Saturday night. Would have been easy (with a press) if the damn things didn't keep slipping off the studs but I got em in eventually by putting them on the studs, tightening the bolt to compress the bushing, and only then trying to get the ball joint in place.
One of my studs had a section where the bolt was maybe 3/4 its original width and clearly F'd up, and I didn't feel safe torquing it to the recommended torque spec... hopefully it'll be fine.
I notice the front suspension seems tighter over bumps, but other than that didn't notice much of a difference in actual driving. Now I just have ball joints and tie rods to go, then alignment.
, I'm basically ready for Boneville 
