uh oh.. compression rod stud broke. what now?
#1
uh oh.. compression rod stud broke. what now?
working on my 03 g35 coupe doing a full front end refresh.
passenger side compression rod stud broke loosening it.. snapped the stud in two.
Shazbot! What now?
is the stud fastened to the body at the factory? is it threaded and replaceable? I would think it would have to be, other wise the front suspension can't be bolted to the body..someone chime in?
passenger side compression rod stud broke loosening it.. snapped the stud in two.
Shazbot! What now?
is the stud fastened to the body at the factory? is it threaded and replaceable? I would think it would have to be, other wise the front suspension can't be bolted to the body..someone chime in?
Last edited by EPiK; 02-26-2017 at 01:59 AM.
#2
Wow..can't hear myself think from all the chatter in here.. ;P
the answer is: yes, no and this break could scrap your car. It is attached to the frame rail and not removable.
in my case it was corroded and snapped in 2 when I was removing the nut for the compression rod stud. The bushing sleeve was seized to the stud, and the bushing was so bad that I just twisted the arm till I could pull it out. Then I hammered and pried the bushing from the broken stud. I found a similarly sized bolt and nut and cut and welded them into a new stud. Not every driveway mechanic has this capability though, so be warned before you do this job. It can get bad. I just got lucky that I had a whole box of bolts for the last decade from stripping cars to race.. Nissan, Honda Mazda, BMW, Porsche..its all in there..The Magic Bolt Box.. never fails.
Pay no attention the access hole I drilled thinking it could use a nut and bolt if I removed the stud. It goes all the way thru the frame!
Not pretty but she's strong.
Best of luck to you.
the answer is: yes, no and this break could scrap your car. It is attached to the frame rail and not removable.
in my case it was corroded and snapped in 2 when I was removing the nut for the compression rod stud. The bushing sleeve was seized to the stud, and the bushing was so bad that I just twisted the arm till I could pull it out. Then I hammered and pried the bushing from the broken stud. I found a similarly sized bolt and nut and cut and welded them into a new stud. Not every driveway mechanic has this capability though, so be warned before you do this job. It can get bad. I just got lucky that I had a whole box of bolts for the last decade from stripping cars to race.. Nissan, Honda Mazda, BMW, Porsche..its all in there..The Magic Bolt Box.. never fails.
Pay no attention the access hole I drilled thinking it could use a nut and bolt if I removed the stud. It goes all the way thru the frame!
Not pretty but she's strong.
Best of luck to you.
Last edited by EPiK; 02-26-2017 at 02:04 AM.
#3
I drove ttrank's car solo
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G35 sedan w/ too much money in mods
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EPiK (02-26-2017)
#4
Yea, you're kind of SOL there. You'll have to find someone to weld a fix or you can cut the stud off, grind it flat, and then drill out the stud. Then use a tap and die to create some threads in the hole for a double sided bolt.
I've never done this before and this is something I would have a professional probably do.
I've never done this before and this is something I would have a professional probably do.
#6
#7
I've changed my compression rods twice and the second time they hadn't been removed in 1 year and the bushing was already starting to seize to the stud. When I get a chance I'm going to remove the compression rod and sand down that stud and use some antiseize on it.
It wasn't fully seized but I had to use my 10 pound sledge to hammer it off.
It wasn't fully seized but I had to use my 10 pound sledge to hammer it off.
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#8
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Originally Posted by Fire0nic3
I've changed my compression rods twice and the second time they hadn't been removed in 1 year and the bushing was already starting to seize to the stud. When I get a chance I'm going to remove the compression rod and sand down that stud and use some antiseize on it.
It wasn't fully seized but I had to use my 10 pound sledge to hammer it off.
It wasn't fully seized but I had to use my 10 pound sledge to hammer it off.
#9
On the driver side, the compression rod ball joint nut stripped. I could not get it off the steering knuckle, and the compression bushing sleeve was seized to the stud of course... it was an interesting workout.
Now imagine grabbing the top of the steering knuckle and swinging it back and forth in the wheel well, as it is still attached at the ball joint, and the compression bushing to the body. Kind of like 50lb kettle bell swings.. 20 swings at a time.. times 3 reps, side to side in a 3 ft swath. Oh yea, the bushing is on fire at this time as well. Do what I gotta do.
It was an interesting time.
Now imagine grabbing the top of the steering knuckle and swinging it back and forth in the wheel well, as it is still attached at the ball joint, and the compression bushing to the body. Kind of like 50lb kettle bell swings.. 20 swings at a time.. times 3 reps, side to side in a 3 ft swath. Oh yea, the bushing is on fire at this time as well. Do what I gotta do.
It was an interesting time.
#13
old thread but how well did this work? Im also curious to know if you just ran rubber bushings after ?
Im in the same boat and have been trying to find better options id even cut and weld the frame stud back but cant find much.
i
im trying to install a angle kit and dont want a weak point if anyone has any thoughts im open!
Im in the same boat and have been trying to find better options id even cut and weld the frame stud back but cant find much.
i
im trying to install a angle kit and dont want a weak point if anyone has any thoughts im open!