Back before I found this forum I was chasing what turned out to be a bad diff bushing, but before I figured that out I impulse bought new engine and trans mounts from ebay thinking that had to be the issue.

I don't think I particularly need engine mounts. There is a very slight vibration at idle, and my car doesn't feel quite as smooth at high RPMs as my friend's 330i with newer OEM mounts- but I've never driven a newer G and judging by the state of my rubber bushings the engine mounts can't possibly be performing at their best. I've also got a bit of rust bubbling up where the engine mounts connect to the frame. Since I already have the parts, why not install them, and clean up this rust in the process?

I've read one DIY on my350z and it looked like a nightmare; the guy was cutting and welding together different wrenches to make one that allowed him to get at the bolts. I can't do that, certainly not for something I don't even really need to do.

Two questions:
Is there a better/easier way to do this with basic hand tools on jack stands? Almost looks like it would be easier to take the front off, raise the engine, but I've never gone down that road before. If I did, I'd be replacing multiple parts as a PM job, what are some wear parts that I could do along the way?

And how smooth SHOULD the G be compared to a BMW/Audi? I know they were competitors when they were new but that was back in 2004.

I wouldn't even be considering doing this, but I already have the parts and I like new things on old cars.

 

Those folks making Macguyver wrenches were likely not supporting the engine and were trying to replace the mounts with the subframe still in position. Get yourself an engine support bar so you can just remove everything underneath.


If you ever plan on doing a full front suspension urethane bushing replacement now would be the perfect time since you could literally take EVERYTHING off and replace them all in one shot

 

As it happens, I'm actually halfway through a full front suspension urethane bushings replacement - still gotta do comp rods and upper control arms, but Maine winter caught me before I could finish. A buddy of mine has an engine hoist which looks like it would do the same job.

Looks like the spring service will consist of engine mounts as well on top of shocks and struts, tie rods, wheel bearings, diff bushings, front end bushings, end links, pads and rotors..... Who knows what else will get added to that list before I get to it.

I told myself I wasn't going to get too deep into a rusty car but looks like I don't have any self control as far as cars are concerned.... Nothing new there!

 

If you're talking about a cherry picker style engine hoist that's not what you want to use since you don't want to be crawling under a vehicle supported by hydraulic means. An engine bar sits on top of the hood rails and is a mechanical support that can't accidentally fail and crush you.

 

Hmm, I was thinking of supporting the oil pan with a jack as well but that's a very valid consideration, thanks for keeping an eye out If it simply doesn't work that's that, I'm just on a shoestring budget and trying not to buy tools I'm only going to use once if possible.

 

If you're going to use a jack on the oil pan then use a scissor-style jack like the OEM one instead of a hydraulic floor jack.