2006 G35 Coupe 6MT cranks, but wont start
My 2006 Infiniti G35 coupe 6MT decided to not start just a few days ago. I know issue isn't the battery, as the car cranks strong. I scanned the car for codes since, and don't have any codes. I just recently (a few months ago) replaced the fuel injectors, the spark plugs, the coil packs, and rebuilt the (gigantic) intake plenum with new hardware. I also replaced the cam sensors, and the crank sensor. I have checked all of the fuses and relays, and they are all good. The car does have an SEL light when I turn the key to accessory. I checked one of the coils to see if I had spark, and I don't have spark, which leads me to believe it might be an ECU problem. If it does any help, I do have straight pipes on the car w/ out a tune, but I seriously doubt that has anything to do with the issue, as I have driven the car this way for a while w/ out any problems. I would love to hear any input anyone has on what the problem might be.
Last edited by XxCHICKENBOOBxX; Oct 24, 2018 at 11:42 AM.
What brand cam and crank sensors did you use, unless it was in OEM or hitachi there is a really good chance that the sensor prematurely died because the aftermarket ones are garbage.
Swap the old sensors back in one at a time until you find out which one is bad.
Swap the old sensors back in one at a time until you find out which one is bad.
Until the ECU gets data sent back from all those sensors it does not open the injectors or deliver spark, typically you will have a code saying which sensor is failing to read.
Last edited by XxCHICKENBOOBxX; Oct 21, 2018 at 12:32 AM.
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G35 sedan w/ too much money in mods

That's most likely your problem. It's well documented here that these motors don't play nice with aftermarket sensors. As cleric said pick up Nissan/Hitachi sensors and replace all 3, both cam and the crank. Did you pull the codes related to the SES light? That should always be your first step in troubleshooting but there's a good chance when you get the right sensors installed your car should run just fine.
Check out the obvious before you start tearing things out. Make sure there is gas in the tank, bad sending unit may indicate there is gas in the tank, when it actually be empty. Check fuel pressure at the rail downstream from the pressure regulator to make sure fuel pump and pressure regulator are working. If a sensor is bad, you usually get a CEL and fault codes. Check all connectors of the items you replaced to make sure they have not come loose.
That's most likely your problem. It's well documented here that these motors don't play nice with aftermarket sensors. As cleric said pick up Nissan/Hitachi sensors and replace all 3, both cam and the crank. Did you pull the codes related to the SES light? That should always be your first step in troubleshooting but there's a good chance when you get the right sensors installed your car should run just fine.
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Check out the obvious before you start tearing things out. Make sure there is gas in the tank, bad sending unit may indicate there is gas in the tank, when it actually be empty. Check fuel pressure at the rail downstream from the pressure regulator to make sure fuel pump and pressure regulator are working. If a sensor is bad, you usually get a CEL and fault codes. Check all connectors of the items you replaced to make sure they have not come loose.
I don't have the tool used to check the fuel pressure, so I wont be checking that for now, but I did put 2 gallons of premium gas in the car to make sure I didn't just run out of gas, and that didn't do me any good. Something that is worth noting is that my fuel pump seems to cycle between turning on and off when I turn the key to the accessory position, I've heard that this is normal for the G35, but it doesn't sound normal to me.
As others have mentioned do not use cheap non OEM parts.
And premium gas is not necessary. I never use it.
Better to place the money saved toward quality parts.
Telcoman
So I put the OEM cam position sensors in, and it didn't fix the problem. Any other ideas of what the problem might be?
https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Cou...5_Coupe/ec.pdf
See page EC-377. If you are not reading the correct wave forms coming from the Crankshaft position that would indicate the sensor is defective.
You may also have a defective ECM/ECM relay. See the schematic diagram on page EC-379
You can check the resistance values of the sensor as shown on page EC-383 with your multimeter
Also see page EC-384
The camshaft position sensor (PHASE) senses the retraction of camshaft (INT) to identify a particular cylinder. The camshaft position sensor (PHASE) senses the piston position.When the crankshaft position sensor (POS) system becomes inoperative, the camshaft position sensor (PHASE) provides various controls of engine parts instead, utilizing timing of cylinder identification signals.
If you don't have the proper tools or troubleshooting skills to pinpoint the problem tow the vehicle to the nearest Infiniti dealer and pay the diagnostic fee to find the root cause.
Or you can just keep throwing parts and hope something sticks.
Telcoman
If you don't have the proper tools or troubleshooting skills to pinpoint the problem tow the vehicle to the nearest Infiniti dealer and pay the diagnostic fee to find the root cause.
Or you can just keep throwing parts and hope something sticks.
Telcoman
Check to see if you have spark, pull the fuel pump relay and crank the motor a few times to empty the fuel rails, pull one spark plug, put it back in the coil pack and hold it with a leather gloved hand about 1/4" from the intake manifold. You observe for spark while someone else cranks the engine.
Next test fuel pressure, buy the sandwich adapter from Z1 Motorsports so you can add a schrader valve or simply put a gauge onto the adapter. You should have 51-55psi of fuel pressure I think.
Since you have a 2006 6MT with the rev-up motor you have FOUR total cam sensors and ONE crank sensor. Did you replace everything?
Next test fuel pressure, buy the sandwich adapter from Z1 Motorsports so you can add a schrader valve or simply put a gauge onto the adapter. You should have 51-55psi of fuel pressure I think.
Since you have a 2006 6MT with the rev-up motor you have FOUR total cam sensors and ONE crank sensor. Did you replace everything?
Letting the gas tank run that low on gas is probably not doing your fuel pump any good. There have been numerous posts that fuel in the tank cools the fuel pump. Whether that is a true fact or not, I'm not sure but why take a chance. When I had my 06 sedan I always filled up around the 1/4 tank level and it served me well till I traded it in at 171796 miles.
As others have mentioned do not use cheap non OEM parts.
And premium gas is not necessary. I never use it.
Better to place the money saved toward quality parts.
Telcoman
As others have mentioned do not use cheap non OEM parts.
And premium gas is not necessary. I never use it.
Better to place the money saved toward quality parts.
Telcoman
Check to see if you have spark, pull the fuel pump relay and crank the motor a few times to empty the fuel rails, pull one spark plug, put it back in the coil pack and hold it with a leather gloved hand about 1/4" from the intake manifold. You observe for spark while someone else cranks the engine.
Next test fuel pressure, buy the sandwich adapter from Z1 Motorsports so you can add a schrader valve or simply put a gauge onto the adapter. You should have 51-55psi of fuel pressure I think.
Since you have a 2006 6MT with the rev-up motor you have FOUR total cam sensors and ONE crank sensor. Did you replace everything?
Next test fuel pressure, buy the sandwich adapter from Z1 Motorsports so you can add a schrader valve or simply put a gauge onto the adapter. You should have 51-55psi of fuel pressure I think.
Since you have a 2006 6MT with the rev-up motor you have FOUR total cam sensors and ONE crank sensor. Did you replace everything?
Last edited by XxCHICKENBOOBxX; Oct 29, 2018 at 12:24 AM.







