6mt trans tricky to get into reverse?
Scroll down and click on the picture for "step 5" and it will enlarge and high res the picture so you can see what the lockout and the top plate look like in relation to one another, when you press the shifter down it just allows the lockout to slide UNDER the mounting plate.
https://nicoclub.com/archives/350z-g...r-install.html
https://nicoclub.com/archives/350z-g...r-install.html
I'm just implying that you need to look at all these things. It's a fairly basic mechanical system though so it's easy to take off the ****, console/boot, then the dust shield and look at it's operation to make sure everything is still in place.
Scroll down and click on the picture for "step 5" and it will enlarge and high res the picture so you can see what the lockout and the top plate look like in relation to one another, when you press the shifter down it just allows the lockout to slide UNDER the mounting plate.
https://nicoclub.com/archives/350z-g...r-install.html
https://nicoclub.com/archives/350z-g...r-install.html
cool was planning to throw a greedy short shifter in the future so I hope it works out
The only part that can be damaged is the bolt that connects the shifter to the transmission. You can inspect that as well by getting under the vehicle, remove it and see if it's bent or anything.
EDIT: But yes typically you want to use something to hold onto the shift rod while you unscrew the ****. Unless it takes little effort to unscrew like some vehicles. Usually though the ones on the G35 are loctite into place and require a LOT of torque to break them free.
EDIT: But yes typically you want to use something to hold onto the shift rod while you unscrew the ****. Unless it takes little effort to unscrew like some vehicles. Usually though the ones on the G35 are loctite into place and require a LOT of torque to break them free.
ahh yes I’ve seen people on YouTube that install short shifters and they show off that assembly underneath the car.So could it potentially just be loose from the bottom? That bolt?
The only part that can be damaged is the bolt that connects the shifter to the transmission. You can inspect that as well by getting under the vehicle, remove it and see if it's bent or anything.
EDIT: But yes typically you want to use something to hold onto the shift rod while you unscrew the ****. Unless it takes little effort to unscrew like some vehicles. Usually though the ones on the G35 are loctite into place and require a LOT of torque to break them free.
EDIT: But yes typically you want to use something to hold onto the shift rod while you unscrew the ****. Unless it takes little effort to unscrew like some vehicles. Usually though the ones on the G35 are loctite into place and require a LOT of torque to break them free.
If you've already pressed the shifter down and to the right, and the difficulty comes in getting the **** towards you into reverse, that's the drivetrain slack combined with the unsyncronized reverse gear.... most manual cars get like that as they age including my old '05 Corolla. if you put it into first before trying reverse and/or clutch in/out slightly while you're trying to get it into reverse, it'll fall right into gear. If doing that doesn't help, your clutch may not be disengaging all the way.
Fixing your drivetrain mounts will make it so you don't have to do this as much but there's nothing you can really do about backlash in the transmission, CV joints, driveshaft, and differential etc short of replacing literally everything and a little backlash in those components is normal on an older car and nothing to worry about until it starts having axial play and causing vibrations.
Fixing your drivetrain mounts will make it so you don't have to do this as much but there's nothing you can really do about backlash in the transmission, CV joints, driveshaft, and differential etc short of replacing literally everything and a little backlash in those components is normal on an older car and nothing to worry about until it starts having axial play and causing vibrations.
Last edited by cswlightning; Apr 29, 2019 at 04:11 PM.
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 18,299
Likes: 1,488
From: By the sea, Tx
G35 sedan w/ too much money in mods

If you've already pressed the shifter down and to the right, and the difficulty comes in getting the **** towards you into reverse, that's the drivetrain slack combined with the unsyncronized reverse gear.... most manual cars get like that as they age including my old '05 Corolla. if you put it into first before trying reverse and/or clutch in/out slightly while you're trying to get it into reverse, it'll fall right into gear. If doing that doesn't help, your clutch may not be disengaging all the way.
Fixing your drivetrain mounts will make it so you don't have to do this as much but there's nothing you can really do about backlash in the transmission, CV joints, driveshaft, and differential etc short of replacing literally everything and a little backlash in those components is normal on an older car and nothing to worry about until it starts having axial play and causing vibrations.
Fixing your drivetrain mounts will make it so you don't have to do this as much but there's nothing you can really do about backlash in the transmission, CV joints, driveshaft, and differential etc short of replacing literally everything and a little backlash in those components is normal on an older car and nothing to worry about until it starts having axial play and causing vibrations.
Here’s the little screw/bolt I was talking about.Seems like with a longer shift ****,it takes quite a while to press down on that bolt compared to the oem short one
The only part that can be damaged is the bolt that connects the shifter to the transmission. You can inspect that as well by getting under the vehicle, remove it and see if it's bent or anything.
EDIT: But yes typically you want to use something to hold onto the shift rod while you unscrew the ****. Unless it takes little effort to unscrew like some vehicles. Usually though the ones on the G35 are loctite into place and require a LOT of torque to break them free.
EDIT: But yes typically you want to use something to hold onto the shift rod while you unscrew the ****. Unless it takes little effort to unscrew like some vehicles. Usually though the ones on the G35 are loctite into place and require a LOT of torque to break them free.
BTW I know it looks ugly which is why I’m changing it to my oem one
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 18,299
Likes: 1,488
From: By the sea, Tx
G35 sedan w/ too much money in mods

Ummmmm no. Read the red, bolded text again in the quoted post.



