So I recently changed my shift **** to a mishimoto weighted one and I recently have Been having a problem with going into reverse.I now have to press the s*** out of my shifter down and right to go into reverse as with my oem shift **** I never had this problem.Sometimes I put it into reverse and for some reason it goes to neutral I’m guessing cause I didn’t press down hard enough.Anyways has anyone experienced this problem with a aftermarket shift ****?

Never with just a **** replacement, you were having other transmission issues like worn synchros yes? Did you ever change the transmission fluid?

nope never had any trans problems with my old shift **** every gear went in like butter.And no I’ve been having the car for only 3 months now I’m actually learning how to drive stick in it but the previous owner did tell me he didn’t actually kept up with maintenance that much besides the basic tune up so I highly doubt he changed the trans fluid.

I heard that you could possibly damage the trans by removing the oem shift **** by hand and I’m thinking possibly (I hope not) this is one of the symptoms of my damage that I caused by doing so.

Maybe but I thought the damage was breaking off the that bold that attaches the shifter into the transmission, iirc it's a 12mm bolt and you can see it from under the car. You would have known if something broke.

I'd take off the trim, unbolt the dust shield, lift it up and manually WATCH the little protrusion for the reverse lockout to make sure it's clearing the lower bracket properly.

Does it make any difference whether the vehicle is running or not? If it goes into gear just fine with the vehicle turned off then you might actually have a clutch disengagement problem, start with bleeding the fluid.

I've heard that too, and you can't just force it off. I too afraid to help my friend change his in his 350z. Jfsag try putting the old one on. I'd also take apart the shift shifter like stated before and check the lockout

[QUOTE=Ichiglo_;7166809]So I recently changed my shift **** to a mishimoto weighted one and I recently have Been having a problem with going into reverse.I now have to press the s*** out of my shifter down and right to go into reverse as with my oem shift **** I never had this problem.Sometimes I put it into reverse and for some reason it goes to neutral I’m guessing cause I didn’t press down hard enough.Anyways has anyone experienced this problem with a aftermarket shift ****?[/QUOTE]

FWIW I traded in my 06 G35 6 speed with 171796 miles, never changed the transmission fluid, never changed the shift ****, and never had any problem shifting into reverse or any other gear.
Traded in my 2012 G37S with 95k miles for my Q70, never changed the transmission fluid, never changed the shift ****, and never had a problem shifting into reverse or any other gear.
Not sure why anyone would risk the damage to the shifter by replacing a shift **** with some POS aftermarket piece of s#it?
Maybe I'm just and old farht that drove many stick shift vehicles for over 50 years and never had a problem.

Telcoman

The problem isn't the ****, something got messed up during the install although I'm not sure how you could do that, or two unrelated issues.
If you've got a ton of driveline slack from bad diff bushings or play in components that will make it hard to shift into reverse.
Maybe the shifter plate got misaligned somehow?

I don't know how it could have gotten misaligned unless the top plate bolts were removed and not put back in but for a shift **** replacement you don't take anything apart, just unscrew the existing **** and put a new one on.

Telco, I'm of the opinion that the OEM shift assembly itself is a major POS and should be immediately replaced. All the aftermarket ones are far superior to the OEM unit, B&M makes a really nice one, I do prefer the stock **** though because it has a good feel to it.

acutally I just twisted it it off by hand with little to no force it came off in less than a minute.Still it had locktite around but it wasn’t hard at all.Im planning to put my stock one back on to see the difference.I believe the difference is that my new shift **** is long and site pretty high and there’s a little bolt on the bottom of the shifter that I guess engages reverse when you press down.So I’m thinking that I when I had my oem shift **** and it was short it actually hit that bolt quicker since it sat so low sorry if it sounds o confusing

I hope not I literally just sat and my car and turned the shift **** with one hand and it came off in less than a minute I guess it might be reverse lockout or whatever they call that.Can anyone explain to me what reverse lockout is and why so many aftermarket shift ***** sell them as well?
and yes my diff bushing is all rusted and destroyed

[QUOTE=telcoman;7166871] yes you’re right I’m actually planning to throw my oem one back on lol it’s my first MT car and got all excited to mod it but I totally agree with you

To remove my aftermarket shift **** should I simply just turn it loose? Or should I do the whole vice grips holding the shifter method? I thought that method was only to remove your oem one at first

Ok the **** attaches to the shift rod and in the middle is a large ball with a spring that keeps it pressed up. On the side of the rod itself is a protrusion (reverse lockout) so you have to press the entire rod down (compress the spring pushing on the ball) and that allows the protrusion to go BELOW this bracket that holds the spring and ball up.

It has absolutely nothing to do whatsoever with the **** you screw on top of the shift rod.

Check out this picture of the Stillen shifter and you can see the ball, the reverse lockout protrusion. Below the ball is a spring that pushes it up, on top of the ball is a plate that serves to bolt the assembly down as well as block the reverse lockout.

https://conceptzperformance.com/stil...352_p_8572.php

Scroll down and click on the picture for "step 5" and it will enlarge and high res the picture so you can see what the lockout and the top plate look like in relation to one another, when you press the shifter down it just allows the lockout to slide UNDER the mounting plate.

https://nicoclub.com/archives/350z-g...r-install.html