Hey guys, just wanted to make this post to know what to do in the future for my G.

First off: Cosmetic Modding.
Soon after I paint my car and get my stock rays powdercoated black, (eventually replacing it with ESR or Volk rims,) I’d like to space out the wheels an inch or two, along with a slight camber. Any links to where I can find well-recommended kits/items for cambering/spacing my wheels? Also, before I wrap that up, can anyone with a stanced G tell me how it rides? Keep in mind, this is my daily, so I’d hope that whatever coil overs I get, will be, at least, somewhat smooth of a ride compared to my stock suspension.

Next: Performance.
I love my car as a daily, but I’d also like to be satisfied with not being gapped by BRZ’s and Mom sedans... any good advice on what to do to get some better power pushed out of my car? I know that forced induction is the best bet for huge numbers, but I’m still in high-school, and paid for everything myself and still have to work... so, any budget things I can do so I’m not gapped by cars with the same power as mine/better numbers on the Dyno than stock? I may sound stupid to some of you experienced people, but I have my certain questions that answers will help a lot for me.

Thanks!

 

Since you have the 2005 6MT you have the rev-up engine. The common bolt-ons is the MREV2 lower plenum + 5/16 spacer, HFC/test pipes, cat back, tune. Personally I think it's equally as big of a speed increase to get a lightweight flywheel and aluminum driveshaft even though they make literally zero difference on the dyno, it makes the same power in less time which = faster.

Unfortunately none of those mods are cheap, this isn't a Honda.

Assuming you get everything used you're still probably looking like
MREV2+spacer=$500
Test pipes = $100, HFC=$250
Cat back = $450 for something "decent" probably going to drone/rasp
Tune=$700 but well worth it

Lightweight flywheel = $250 after getting it resurfaced
Aluminum driveshaft = $500

I strongly suggest you start locally and make friends, that's by far your best way to score budget parts.

 

If you're getting gapped by a BRZ something's wrong with your car... but this isn't a drag racer unless you wanna spend twice the value of the car on mods or weld up your own Ebay turbo kit

 

I was going to say something about that earlier but unless it was actually on the track he probably just got jumped by a BRZ in the correct gear ready to go. My G was definitely pulling on a friends BRZ when they were both bone stock, those things aren't fast stock. I think his was a high 14 second 1/4 mile stock and I had a low 14 second stock.

You won't be impressed with the G35 NA, stock cams, stock headers, with MREV2+spacer, HFC/catback and no tune I BARELY broke into 13 seconds one time out of probably 12 runs on street tires. With a tune it would probably be a consistent 13.9 with good track conditions, mostly because you can get 2 step with an uprev tune and have a more consistent launch. Definitely not impressive but it's a sweet looking and very comfortable car though and it will hold corners with the BRZ.

 

Thanks guys! Yeah, I’ll have to save a little more for that stuff, but I’ll get those parts hopefully by the beginning of summer!

Yeah, about the BRZ, before I start it had E85 and a tune he said; I’m not sure if I was in a good enough gear, but either way, unless I’m not shifting at the right point, I’m getting pretty gapped in every race. Usually, I prefer a standstill. I don’t dump the clutch, I just push down about 75%, shift to second, then floor it. Here’s the thing. I’ll get up to 4-5k in first, and then quickly shift to second and floor it; it takes quite a bit to get up to redline, which is frustrating! Again, I’m not too experienced in 6-speed street racing, but then again, it just takes a few seconds to even get up to 7200... I feel like it can go up in the 6-7000s quicker, unless I need to just redline in first, but I’m thinking I’ll mess the engine/tranny up going that high in first... who knows...

Cleric or CSW, any street racing advice (when exactly to shift, etc., for the best output in a race whether on the street or track?) and if you could also tell me the best gear to be in if I’m doing like a 40-50 roll? Just so I know without figuring out myself and possibly throwing a rod haha... I know obviously not to go straight from 6th to 3rd going highway speed, definitely not 2nd or 1st. I have my common sense on that haha.

 

The best advice I can give about racing on the street. Don't do it

Best to keep that kind of driving on the track where it belongs. As for track racing advice, you'll definitely have to pedal it on street tires and the track conditions can vary pretty wildly so it's one of those things you just need to practice A LOT. If you're doing a rolling race don't be any lower than 4k rpm.

As for throwing a rod, keep up on your oil change intervals and DEFINITELY check the oil level weekly. You have a rev limiter so you're not going to over rev and blow the engine but this also isn't a Honda, you can't just ride the limiter on every gear, the B/K Hondas can do that all day long without worry but you should try to keep it off the limiter in the VQ.

 

Thanks!! Yeah I think it hit redline sometimes but I’m kinda worried to at the same time lol. But I guess I’m not hitting the rev limiter even during the highest I’ve got it which was probably just right over the 7 on the tach. I keep reassuring myself that the revup was built with a few stronger internal parts for better sustainability to higher RPM’s or whatever, right?

And Yeah, I have to check my oil real quick because it got replaced at 92.3k miles and I just rolled 94k yesterday!

 

If you're pushing the rev-up hard it can drink a couple quarts per oil change, track use it can drink a LOT more than that. Check your oil every week and top it off as needed, I can almost guarantee you will be adding a little oil weekly.

 

I've got 150k on my DE nonrevup motor now. Typically I rev to 4k and dump the clutch and floor it in 1st to redline, I try to shift at 6500 into second as fast as possible and immediately floor it again. Repeat until 4th gear redline.

I did just blow up a shift fork doing a redline 5-6 shift in Canada of course so maybe don't do that if your synchros are toast.

The OEM dual mass flywheel has crazy rev hang, and doesn't like being abused. Mine went out at 110k and made the car vibrate like crazy throughout the rev range, and roasted my ACT HD pressure plate even though I only let it go for a couple thousand miles. I'd plan to replace that with a midweight single mass flywheel sooner rather than later if you're going to be driving like that all the time.

Oh, and figure out how much oil your car burns. Drive like a maniac for an oil change and change it at 2k miles, measure how much comes out. Then you'll have a worst case oil burn situation and know how much to top off every 1000 miles or so

 

Sounds great, I’ll keep that in mind!!