Where do I begin.

I recently picked up a 06 g35 with 66k on the body, a non rev Vq35de and the original cd009. Along with a “64k” Vq35de revup. After seeing the attempt the last person made on swapping the non rev in I see why they never got it to start. From using a revup harness (on a non rev) and Cutting off cam sensors to 2 ecus for 350z I have no clue what they were thinking. So I swapped the low mile revup in with a new clutch and did all the routine maintenance, and plugged the only 06 g35 ecu I had in.

No start, cranks, fans kicks on full, fuel gets to the fuel dampener so I assume it’s getting to the injectors, my security light stays on though and my scanner and a Snapon Solus 2 can’t even get power from it. I’ve found that pin 8 on my dlc is getting 12v but my 16 pin is only getting about 5v. I’ve checked over all the fuses and relays (yes all the ones people assume to be an ecu failure then end up being just a fuse/relay/loose ground). And still nothing, mind you I let my Ecu get wet in the Rain it got hot the first attempt of starting it. The only codes I can pickup with the scanner on dish mode is u1000 which is no communication between modules and downstream o2 sensors because I don’t have the cats or o2 sensors on atm. The junction box in the kick panel has no power at all to any fuses, under the dash has no spliced connections or frayed wires, no water damage. I’m completely lost leaving me only to believe my ecu is fried. Someone is sending me a 2007 g35 m/t ecm/bcm and key/ign which should be plug and play from what I’ve read. The engine will read a de revup and the bcm will read a 2007 g35 coupe m/t connected to the key/ignition it’s always been connected to.
many input helps Ik I put myself in a weird situation but it was a good deal lol.


and side notes. No it’s not the original vq from the car I imagine the original owner from 2006-2010 or the second owner blew it up and he was the one to try swapping in a non rev. I bought it from the 3rd owner who bought it in 2017 to turn it and another g35 into vaydor kit cars. He says the 2nd owner never got it running and it would only crank (with the non rev in) the 3rd owner picked up the revup motor abt a year and a half ago to swap into it… but to to personal issues never got around to building the cars.

 

U1000 is a CANBUS error saying the ECM cannot communicate with one or more of it's other modules via CANBUS, this is not related to not having downstream O2 sensors plugged in.

Since the NATS indicator light is solid red while cranking you won't get spark or injectors, probably just need to have the ECM paired to the BCM/Immobilizer. The replacements from the 2007 should work though.

 

Ok I’ll be ordering that on Monday when I get the invoice for it. Do you know why I wouldn’t be getting power to the junction box by the clutch pedal and my data link connector? I have 12v to pin 8 and ~5v to pin 16. Another tech gave me the run down on how to check for continuity, resistance on the hi and low comm lines. So I’ll be checking those tmrw.

 

I would start at the fusible link, if you have no power at Fuse Block - J/B in the cabin then you probably blew one of the half-dozen or so main fuses in the fusible link.

 

I looked at it but never tested it, would I need to unplug the connections on it and test for power on all of them? If one was to blow out would that control ecm, or soemthing related? But still allow power in the interior, windows, rad fans?

 

The fusible link bolts to the positive battery terminal. It houses the primary fuses the supply every system in the car.

Some of them supply power to fuse banks inside the IPDM others supply power to fuse banks inside fuse block JB inside the cabin.

When you start losing multiple systems you need to start looking at the fusible link. It's really easy to check the fuses by the way. Each of them has a clear plastic window so you can see the fuse inside it, usually when one blows out it makes a big black burned mark inside the fuse so it's easy to tell.

 

Ok, none of them have a burnt look to them. But might be worth the replacement? This car has sat for the last 3-4 years as I haven’t come across mice nests near wires only under the seats, I hope that my wires aren’t destroyed anywhere. I had to replace the positive terminal itself because the original one was rusted out and making a poor connection.

 

And in your experience an ecm getting much hotter than normal temp isn’t a good sign right? 😅

Side note getting 2.4v to one can line and 2.6v to other on dlc with ecm unplugged and key on. With the ecm plugged in I’d read abt 4.8v to either line.

Just ordered a new Fusible Link as well

 

Replaced the fusible link, as well as the ecm, bcm and key/ignition in my 06 g35 m/t with a 07 same variant. Seemed to fix a couple issues like resistance between the can bus lines, power supplied to junction box, and cleared an ipdm code when I code scanned it. Still not starting though. Start signal and heater mirror fuses in the junction box aren’t getting power but aren’t blown. Radiator fans will still turn on full power.

 

You know what... I bet your accessory relay on the cabin Fuse Block - J/B failed. First disconnect the battery, then take off the plastic cover over that fuse box, not just the little access window but the WHOLE THING. You first remove the plastic kick plate on the door jamb, the dummy pedal for your left foot (just pull it straight up, no bolts), then a few screws/bolts and you can get that panel off. Unbolt the two 10mm bolts holding the fuse block down then lift it up so you can access the two blue relays on the back of it. One is for your AC blower motor and the other one turns on power to like half the fuse block when the key is turned to ON or START. I'm betting that relay is shot and that's why you aren't getting power on that stuff.

I didn't think either of those two relays were for powering anything critical that could prevent the car from starting but maybe it also powers something to do with the security system.

You don't need to REPLACE the relays, just swap them because they're the same, one is for the AC blower motor so if the blower fan turns on then the relay is working.

You won't have power to the mirror heater fuse until you turn on the rear defroster so I wouldn't really be concerned with that right now.

What was the IPDM code?

 

Also, if you have tried to start the car too many times with a key it doesn't recognize then it will put the ECM into lockout mode and it won't even crank the engine anymore, it WILL throw a code for that though.

 

I don’t have an ipdm code anymore and I don’t think the relays on the back of the jb are bad, I’m getting power to 90% of it but the mirror heater (which you stated has power when rear defrosters on) and start signal. Only code I’m getting now is the same U1000 code from my bcm and my tpms because I don’t have any tpms sensors. Tpms module is also reading a vehicle speed signal error (c1729) Wondering if maybe I should do an ecu reset being I just swapped the 2 modules and igntion into the car. Also are you familiar with the 2 smaller connections on the engine harness that come into the cab from a 2006 350z ? On another harness I have it appears one has a relay but not the same connectors as what I need.

 

If I don’t get it by the end of next week I might need to bring it to the performance shop near me, so then if it needs to be tuned or anything like that they can do it there. Car is being built for the track so deleting some unnecessary computer components doesn’t worry me if need be.

 

That relay on the other harness is probably right next to the ECM yeah? That would be one from a 5AT and that's the TCM relay.

Also, I think everything comes back to that U1000 code, that isn't from a SENSOR being unplugged, it's from one of the COMPUTERS being unplugged. They keyless entry module reads the data from the tire pressure sensors and sends the data to the BCM.

You're still getting a "fans on high speed when you turn the ignition on" yeah? That's because the ECM is not communicating with the IPDM so the IPDM just defaults as a failsafe condition to max fan speed.

Unfortunately it's REALLY difficult to diagnose CANBUS module issues without Consult-II or Nissan Datascan2. You need to be able to command the self-diagnosis function of those modules and see which ones return a NIL value. There isn't a way to trigger the self-diagnosis from a normal OBD2 scanner, it's got to be done with either Consult2/3 or NDS2.

Since you're having U1000 issues with both sets of computers from two different vehicles I'm thinking your wiring harness is damaged and that you should be looking for physical damage on a wire, this typically happens at a grommet/bushing where it passes through the firewall, or near other metal where it can rub through and damage the wire.

 

Ok thanks for the help… might need to get in touch with the donor car again to get the harness from that. How would I check the ecm relay? I did a kind of bs test but I’m not positive that it’s 100%, could that cause this issue?

and yes the fans still come on full speed. And might be able to borrow a consult2 from a tech at work.