Installed header/hf cats/spring/ cambers myself
#1
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
From: SAN JOSE CA 95148
Installed header/hf cats/spring/ cambers myself
[/IMG]Just a little info for those who want to follow the Do it yourself on the forum
Just finished installed topspeed headers/kinetix high flow cats/eibach sportline/kinetix front a arms/ spc rear camber+toe last weekends. It was tough but it was not that hard. if i have to do it again it will be much easier and faster that i now know what and how.
On the header one tool i will recoment is W40 !!! and lots of diff. length driver for your socket. Yes i did disconected the upper water hose. No engine lifted.
The header by itself will give you more deeper tone, but with hf cats there will be some raspiness if you gas it due to too much flow for the stock muffler to handles.
On the spring. the install was simple but just remember to loosen the top nut on the spring shock assembly before you take it out because the three bolts will holds whole thing in place while you turn. and if you do install a arms cambers it wise to do it when the shock/spring is in place but not bolt to anything because you need room to move it around for the two bolt on the arm( i f*%& up when i put the spring/shock back and found out i have no room for the two bolt to slide back in.)
for the rear i used a hand drill to elonged the toe hole. much faster and cleaner cut. i used a drill bit that a little smaller than the hole itself.
Note: kinetix a arm will have to be install with the two grease fitting pointing down. to adjust camber on these arm you will have to back it all the way in then give it about ten turn back out. that will bring you back to "ok" spec.
and for the rear camber setting you line the new and the old one up and adjust the new one so that the hole on the new one past the hole on the old one if you have sportline spring. if any thing else in between 1" and 1.5" you back it up to 1/4 of the hole on the new a arm is visible to the old arm.
I have 05 coupe with 20" 255 front/285 back. the front tire are under the fender. the rear still some gap(1"?)
Just done alignment.
front: before after before after
camber- -2.0 -0.8 -2.0 -1.0
toe -0.25 0.00 0.03 0.00
rear:
camber -1.1 -1.0 -1.7 -1.0
toe 0.73 0.00 0.32 0.01
Will give more info later. back to work for me.
Just finished installed topspeed headers/kinetix high flow cats/eibach sportline/kinetix front a arms/ spc rear camber+toe last weekends. It was tough but it was not that hard. if i have to do it again it will be much easier and faster that i now know what and how.
On the header one tool i will recoment is W40 !!! and lots of diff. length driver for your socket. Yes i did disconected the upper water hose. No engine lifted.
The header by itself will give you more deeper tone, but with hf cats there will be some raspiness if you gas it due to too much flow for the stock muffler to handles.
On the spring. the install was simple but just remember to loosen the top nut on the spring shock assembly before you take it out because the three bolts will holds whole thing in place while you turn. and if you do install a arms cambers it wise to do it when the shock/spring is in place but not bolt to anything because you need room to move it around for the two bolt on the arm( i f*%& up when i put the spring/shock back and found out i have no room for the two bolt to slide back in.)
for the rear i used a hand drill to elonged the toe hole. much faster and cleaner cut. i used a drill bit that a little smaller than the hole itself.
Note: kinetix a arm will have to be install with the two grease fitting pointing down. to adjust camber on these arm you will have to back it all the way in then give it about ten turn back out. that will bring you back to "ok" spec.
and for the rear camber setting you line the new and the old one up and adjust the new one so that the hole on the new one past the hole on the old one if you have sportline spring. if any thing else in between 1" and 1.5" you back it up to 1/4 of the hole on the new a arm is visible to the old arm.
I have 05 coupe with 20" 255 front/285 back. the front tire are under the fender. the rear still some gap(1"?)
Just done alignment.
front: before after before after
camber- -2.0 -0.8 -2.0 -1.0
toe -0.25 0.00 0.03 0.00
rear:
camber -1.1 -1.0 -1.7 -1.0
toe 0.73 0.00 0.32 0.01
Will give more info later. back to work for me.
Last edited by 05BLACK6MT; 10-02-2006 at 06:21 PM. Reason: added pictures
#2
#5
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
From: SAN JOSE CA 95148
[QUOTE=Nismo G]how hard was it for the headers? What all needed to be done? I have all available tools at my house or i can get them from my dads company. Let me know if anything special had to be done for the headers and high flow cats.
sean
all depend on what type of header you have, mine was topspeed so no need to lifted the engine but i do have to disconected the upper water hose and steering column. it took me around 6 hrs for the header.
the hardest part is to remove the bolt under neath the upper water hose pipe. for the removal you should be able to get "most" of the bolts on the header off by socket but on the install due to the header tubing you will have to do it by wrench on most of them.
the trick to break or torque a bolt is:
if youre using socket with 3/8 drive then using another larger socket and long extension to slide on the handle of your 3/8 drive to give you more torque.
if youre using a wrench then using another larger wrench and connect them end to end for more torque.
you will save yourself lost of time if you buy a set of 3/8 extension
.5"/2"/3"/12"/18" etc....
up top you will have to remove the intake assembly( tube/air fillter ect)
and on the other side is the upper water hose
down under : drain the water/ remove the plastic cover/ remove the cats(install the new hf cat after you finish with the header will save you time later on)/ disconnect the steering column.
I did it follow one of the diy not sure which but if you know what youre doing then you'll be fine.
sean
all depend on what type of header you have, mine was topspeed so no need to lifted the engine but i do have to disconected the upper water hose and steering column. it took me around 6 hrs for the header.
the hardest part is to remove the bolt under neath the upper water hose pipe. for the removal you should be able to get "most" of the bolts on the header off by socket but on the install due to the header tubing you will have to do it by wrench on most of them.
the trick to break or torque a bolt is:
if youre using socket with 3/8 drive then using another larger socket and long extension to slide on the handle of your 3/8 drive to give you more torque.
if youre using a wrench then using another larger wrench and connect them end to end for more torque.
you will save yourself lost of time if you buy a set of 3/8 extension
.5"/2"/3"/12"/18" etc....
up top you will have to remove the intake assembly( tube/air fillter ect)
and on the other side is the upper water hose
down under : drain the water/ remove the plastic cover/ remove the cats(install the new hf cat after you finish with the header will save you time later on)/ disconnect the steering column.
I did it follow one of the diy not sure which but if you know what youre doing then you'll be fine.
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