Help! Intermittent starting problems
#31
Originally Posted by cloud
Hmm today I drove a mile and stopped to have lunch. Started the car after lunch and the same thing happened. So i'd say it doesn't have to sit overnight for the problem to happen.
My idle is pretty stable, only +- 50 rpm fluctuations.
My idle is pretty stable, only +- 50 rpm fluctuations.
It doesnt have to be overnight. Half an hour to an hour would do it. If you turn of your engine and turn it back on and its fine, then i think i'm right. It would not affect the rpm. Your engine would be normal once it starts up. The leakage is very slow. If you let it leak for over half an hour, then it'll lose pressure, but if its constantly running with engine on, the pressure is normal.
#32
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Originally Posted by bull3t
if you drive your car hard...i suggest you clean the throttle body every 30k or so...before i cleaned my throttle body my car would start up, but the revs would
drop and almost stall (it actually stalled a few times)...after i cleaned it, it was good as new...
drop and almost stall (it actually stalled a few times)...after i cleaned it, it was good as new...
#33
NOT SURE if anyone posted this, cuz i did not read the whole thread...but I had an odd starting problem, sometimes it would do nothing...other times it would strain then start. It turned out to be an antenna in the car that receives the signal from the chip in the key. I know its a long ****, but just putting it out there. Took my dealership like 4 days to figure out what the hell it was.
#34
Originally Posted by cloud
I have had this problem a couple of times before but recently it has become more frequent. Many times I turn the key but the engine doesn't start and when I try it the second time, it barely starts(meaning it feels like its about to stall then starts) any idea of what's wrong?? This is very annoying...I only have 13k on the odo and have been keeping up with maintenance.
You should pause for a moment when the ignition is on (this lets the fuel pressure build to an acceptable range)and then crank the engine for another full second or until it's running... If you crank too long the starter will wear a little so you have to use your judgment on this; you will hear it if you crank too long.
If you crank before the fuel pressure has reached it's operating range the attempt will fail and then it will take a much longer crank time (many more revolutions) for the system to adjust and sync itself for the next start. This is why when cranking after a failed start takes much longer.
If you give it enough time to pressure up the fuel rails, it will start the first crank every time.
![Big Grin](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Last edited by htownboy; 03-19-2007 at 04:55 PM.
#39
Mmmmkay. Here's what I did that fixed it (for me at least):
1. Disconnect battery
2. Remove MAF housing.
3. Clean MAF with CRC brand MAF cleaner (Per MAF Cleaner's instructions).
4. Let dry thoroughly.
5. Disconnect Z tube.
6. NOT NOT NOT disconnect TB wire.
7. Spray CRC TB cleaner onto butterfly valve, and TB intake pipe.
8. Wipe out with cloth, thoroughly. There was a LOT of gunk on this! Hadn't been cleaned in 108k miles.
9. Spray CRC TB cleaner onto rag, push butterfly open gently and rub back of butterfly valve and TB tube.
10. Repeated until no more black gunk was on the rag.
11. Reconnect everything.
12. Let car sit for two hours to make sure everything that could evaporate off did.
13. Started car. (Just fine as it always does during a cold start).
14. Warmed up car.
15. Stopped engine.
16. *Fingers crossed* Started it up while engine was warm.
17. Bingo! Engine started without any hesitation, surging, RPM fluctuations, etc.
18. Smiled and shut it off.
I should have checked separately whether it was the TB or MAF that needed cleaning. However, it must have been one of those two in my case.
Good luck with everyone else's engines! And thanks to those that pointed out cleaning the TB and MAF.
-andrew
1. Disconnect battery
2. Remove MAF housing.
3. Clean MAF with CRC brand MAF cleaner (Per MAF Cleaner's instructions).
4. Let dry thoroughly.
5. Disconnect Z tube.
6. NOT NOT NOT disconnect TB wire.
7. Spray CRC TB cleaner onto butterfly valve, and TB intake pipe.
8. Wipe out with cloth, thoroughly. There was a LOT of gunk on this! Hadn't been cleaned in 108k miles.
9. Spray CRC TB cleaner onto rag, push butterfly open gently and rub back of butterfly valve and TB tube.
10. Repeated until no more black gunk was on the rag.
11. Reconnect everything.
12. Let car sit for two hours to make sure everything that could evaporate off did.
13. Started car. (Just fine as it always does during a cold start).
14. Warmed up car.
15. Stopped engine.
16. *Fingers crossed* Started it up while engine was warm.
17. Bingo! Engine started without any hesitation, surging, RPM fluctuations, etc.
18. Smiled and shut it off.
I should have checked separately whether it was the TB or MAF that needed cleaning. However, it must have been one of those two in my case.
Good luck with everyone else's engines! And thanks to those that pointed out cleaning the TB and MAF.
-andrew
#42
start up
i have an 04 AT with 32K.. i experience the same problem.. i have an injen cold air intake.. i clean my air filter mabe about a month ago and reoiled the filter.. im pretty sure i didnt put to much oil on the filter.. but it sounds like my car is about to die when i start up.. only have i drive it for a long period of time does it stop. so idk.. maybe i might take the advice and clean the throttle body
#43
mine has just started about 2 days ago- for some reason in the morning when i start up my car it starts fine- when i get to work and let it sit out in the sun (it's been getting real warm out here now) i hop in the car, turn the key , depress clutch all the way down, attempt to start and then i get engine hesitation big time- car doesn't shut off at all but the engine sits hesitating so i shut it off myself just so i don't mess anything up- repeat the steps again and 2nd time i get a little hesitation but engine fires up and acts normal- i don't get a CEL at all, so i guess i need to clean the throttle body?? I just recently had my 30k service done on my car , I thought they would have cleaned this or something
#44
#45