You need to work on having the clutch slip out just fast enough so it can grip with minimum tire screech, then smash the gas. The rest should be smooth sailing.

 

Houston at I-10 & Beltway 8 east

 

i still think the g will win... manual reacts faster (shift gears) than autos...

 

I know it will win again just as before... My friend was talking the same crap numbers before we hit the street the first time and he had to fall in behind me... Since then we have tried the IS and the G several times on the way home from work; not once has he pulled ahead of me and I only have 2 minor intake mods.

 

when you race your friend, don't forget to make your car as light as possible (i.e. spare tire, back seats, loss weight ) and practice practice practice. that should be good for a couple HP right there. good luck, hope u win. let us know the result.

 

update??????????????

 

That's because most on this board don't really know how to drive so they resort to quoting "numbers" and B.S. stories about "kills"

Back to the topic: The way to launch your car properly is to take your car to a track or an open area and practice, practice, practice. There are so many variables (tires, track temp, atmospheric conditions, sand/oil/water, etc.) involved in launching a car that nobody on a message board can give you a definitive answer. You just need to do it, again and again and again and learn for yourself.

But I know you don't want to hear that and you just want a bullet list of what to do, so here it goes:

1. Save enough money to pay for a replacement clutch.
2. Save enough money for new tires.
3. Learn how to drive your car smoothly. Get a good understanding of the connection between engine speed, gear selection and vehicle speed.
4. From a stop, give your engine low revs and drop the clutch. Increase the revs until you get a good launch - a slight chirp and no bogging - make a note of the revs.
5. Continue to increase your revs in increments (say 500RPM) and try dropping your clutch at each increment. Notice how each rev increase changes your launch (most likely more and more tire spin - see Step 2).
6. Now try raising your RPMs higher than the RPM you noted in step 4 and slowly releasing your clutch while trying not to let the wheels spin. (again, miminal tire chirping, no bogging) and push the pedal to the floor when your tires get a good grip. Be prepared to feather the gas pedal (slightly backing off on the gas and carefully reapplying it) when necessary to avoid tire spin.
7. Make a note of your findings.
7. Repeat steps 4 through 7 at as many locations as you can.
8. Repeat steps 4 through 7 under as many weather variables as you can (wet/dry/hot/cold/etc).
9. Once you've master all of the above, challenge someone to a race at a local drag strip and show him your tail lights.
10. Report back here and let us all know what you learned

And in case I wasn't clear: You WILL burn your clutch and you WILL have to replace your clutch and tires. This will happen, it is not an option. Do not hold me responsible for what you choose to do with your car.

 

Just what the world needs, a 43 year old street racer.

Unless you line up under controlled conditions (i.e. the track) your highway antics don't prove $hit except who the bigger idiot is.

Congrats. You won.

For the record, there is finesse required when launching an auto just as there is with a manual. Talk to anyone who tracks their car (vice blowing down the freeway) and they'll tell you the same.

 

i drive an auto sedan and it is NOT just smash the gas pedal. i was out the other night and i ran into my firend with an older gen 2dr accord with a few mods. we decided to run it off a stop sign and when we went for it i had vdc off, and the car just stood there, rpm's went up but the car didnt do ****. he was a good 20 ft infront when i FINALLY caught grip and i pulled on the mothafuka so hard he didnt know wat hit him.lol. moral of the story is, u cant just smash it. there brake launching (holding brake and gas at same time, then releasing brake and stomping) and the weather conditions play a major role. it was cold that night so thats the explanation. also, i notice on different road surfaces i spin and some i dont. u just have to be "one with ur car".....lol, but its true, ya get me

 

Did anybody notice that our turning diameter is 4 FEET wider? That's insane horrible.

 

turning radius is **** on the G

****.... i hate it

on another note handling vs the is350... which do u guys think is better

and what would it take in terms of N.A mods to beat a is350

on the strip

mrev, spacer, exhaust, popcharger, ztube and header?

 

You can cut the turning radius to less than 10 feet if you slam the gas petal down while turning.

 

Let's say if i mess up the clutch while practicing, will my warrenty cover it?

Sooiseng

 

not a chance

 

just got this from the automotive.com website about 07 g35 (this is true for all years i think):

Basic 4 yr. / 60,000 mi.
Drivetrain 6 yr. / 70,000 mi.

Basic Warranty: The basic warranty covers everything except items that are subject to wear and tear or replacement in the ordinary course of vehicle ownership, such as oil and air filters, wiper blades and brake pads. Tires and batteries are often excluded, but usually have their own warranty provided by the manufacturers of those items. Emissions equipment is required by Federal law to be covered for five years or 50,000 miles.

Drive Train Warranty: In some cases the drive train warranty continues after the basic warranty has expired. This part of the warranty covers most of the parts that make the vehicle move, including the engine, transmission, drive axles and driveshaft. Like the basic warranty, "consumable" parts such as hoses and belts are not covered. However, most of the internal parts of the engine, such as the pistons and bearings, which are also subject to wear and tear, are covered by the drive train warranty.