^kiantech, what problems were you having before they replaced it?? same???

 

basically when I would shift (especially on hot days), the clutch petal would get stuck half way. And if you pushed hard on the gas, sometimes (not always) the clutch pedal would pull itself to the floor.

 

Wow. I guess I'll be paying them a visit again soon. Thanks for the heads up.

 

This first happened to me at 1.5K fried the clutch, which they replaced. Then again at 15K Frontier Infiniti replaced the master cylinder... PLus I just got a new engine because of the oil consumption issue.

 

Riverside also says it is not covered under powertrain.

 

Trying to give a bit back here, since I always fish the site for answers. I had a very similar problem to what was described here. My clutch pedal would not always return to the top after a shift. Usually in the morning it was fine, and then after 5 or so shifts it would develop a softness.

I'm a complete car-noob, I didn't even know the clutch was hydraulic. But after searching here I found a link to cycling/flushing the clutch fluid to clean it out.

http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html

My fluid looked low, in addition to being very dirty. There was a lot of sludge in the reservoir. I cycled it about 6 times, following the directions on that link exactly. It only took about 20 minutes and cost $6 for the fluid plus a pump from Pep boys. I used the synthetic DOT 4 fluid.

The clutch has improved 100000000%, no more sticking or softness. I'll probably check the fluid every oil change, now that I know I can do it myself. I'm thinking about doing the oil changes myself, since this was so easy, but I don't want to get ahead of myself.

 

I would try replacing the fluid and bleeding the clutch first. I had this same issue until I replaced the fluid with Motul 600 and bled the clutch like crazy and it's fine.

I'm not sure if it is a design flaw or just a typical hydraulic pain in the *** but if the clutch is anything like the brakes it's a ****** to get all the air out. A tiny bit of air can flare up when the fluid gets hot and sitting in traffic clutching in and out will heat that fluid quickly and possibly to boiling point if you're using a low temp fluid. The line is really short too so there is not much time for the fluid to cool. I haven't done it but maybe try taking the temp of the resivoir with an infrared guage when you start experiencing the problem and see if your fluid is above the boiling temp, usually standard is 300 degress I think.

Just an opinion, maybe it is the master cylinder warranty issue... Who knows, all I know is my f'ing stock clutch went at like 21k miles... Take a look at the stock setup and you'll see why... Looks like it's rated for 250HP not 300+... May be applicable across the whole system.... God help us all if these trannys start going prematurely!!!

I'm starting to question the Nissan engineering across the board.

1 - Oil Consumption - have it, fighting it, jury still out on warranty, replaced it - Check
2 - Brakes - Suck, replaced - Check
3 - Clutch - really sucks, replaced - Check
4 - Rear Axle - re torqued - check WTF?!

What else?!

 

Just a curiosity, I was looking at my clutch fluid and I notice the cap comes on and off by just pressing it, and pulling it, right? Its not a twist on, is it? I havent driven it since I looked at it, because I am not 100% sure if I put it on right. Let me know if I am an idiot? =)

 

Honestly can't remember, but I think it's push and turn. I'll check mine when I get home. Wish I could walk outside and look but right now the engine and parts are in the garage and the car is in the other garage Long story... three words... Oil Consumption and Modifications....

 

It's push and turn... Maybe that's part of your problem... You have fluid in right?

 

The clutch fluid cap just pops on. It has like a stopper so you cannot do more than like half a turn. Turning it does not tighten it.

 

Thank you. Thats what I thought, but when I took it off I wasnt thinking.