I drive a 03 coupe 6mt and I recently got into a car accident got eveything fixed and now my car will not rev pass 2000 rpm.... VDC, SLIP,SERVICE ENGINE light is all on...I cleaned the throttle body, MAF ...and it still wont rev...anyone have similar problems?? any idea what it maybe?? Im located around chicago if anyone around this area can help it would be great or anyone that knows.. PLEASE HELP!!!! thank you guys in advance.

 

I would try resetting the ECU, by unplugging the battery for 24 hours.

 

yea..the car was sittin at my friends shop since march cuz i had to replace the passenger suspension now i was taking to the body shop and it happened..the thing is before i took the car i changed out the battery... wouldnt the ECU reset or i have to wait longer for it to reset??i had my body guy unhook the battery and have him connect it tomorrow and see.

 

not to be a smartass or anything...but i'm assuming it has something to do with "VDC, SLIP,SERVICE ENGINE light is all on" lol

cleaning the throttle body and maf isn't going to solve all your problems. hook it up to a code scanner.

sounds like your car is in "limp" mode...preventing you from potentially causing more damage to the engine. probably something wrong with it

 

This same thing happened when I was in one of Infiniti's loaner G35's. Apparently the engine was misreading the slip control sensors (thinking that one on the wheels is not getting traction) and then retarding the engine.

I'd try to disconnect the battery for a couple minutes to see if it resets. If not, definitely take it to the dealer asap. Its definitely a safety concern when pulling into traffic!

 

Start off with the obvious/direct problem-solving approach and hook it up to an OBD-II scanner to pull the code. If you don't do that, you're just grasping at straws... it could be anything.

 

Your lighting could be occuring for a large number of reasons...

The VDC, Slip & Service-Engine/MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) illuminate in conjunction with eachother when a malfunction is detected in one, or a combination of the following equipment/systems:

- VDC Control Module / Power Supplied
- VDC Actuator and/or Motor
- VDC Pressure Sensor or Switch
- ABS Module
- Wheel Sensors (x8) - often results when front brake pad/rotor levels are deminished
- TCS Module
- Brake Fluid Level Switch
- Stop Lamp Switch Circuit
- Steering Angle Sensor / Neutral Position Calibration
- Yaw Rate / Side G Sensors
- Shift Position Sensor
- Communication Circuit between VDC ABS TCS Modules

- Major Engine Component Function ****

Major Engine Component Malfunctions include:
- MAF Sensor / Calibration
- Accellerator Position Sensor / Calibration
- Throttle Body Calibration / Operation
- Fuel Pressure, Oxygen Sensors, Cam Timing, etc.

I have just resolved my 3-yellow-light issue, finding the MAF to be the culprit. It occured (embarassingly) when I replaced my aftermarket cold air intake filter after cleaning (dry filter - no oil). I had failed to allow the filter to adequitely dry prior to reinstalling and starting the engine. Although minimal water was being retained by the filter and felt barely "damp" to the touch, it was enough to damage my MAF. The result was immediate, observing rough idling (running very rich according to my wideband), ignition retarding (power reduced dramatically), minimal throttle response and inability for RPM to reach over 2000 -2200 RPM. Yes, the Engine Control Module has gone into limp mode.

$560CAD later, and problem solved.

I hope this sheds some light on the large variety of inputs that result in the illumination of this 3 engine lamp trio.

Later F$%#'ers!

 

I had the same problem. I live in Chicago and we had a day where snow was melting fast making large puddles. That night it got down to 4 degrees and my car had this problem and also the horn would cherp on every so often. I reset the ECU (took a while) and kept the hood up for a couple of days in a heated garage and dryed it out. Cross my fingers nothing has turned up since.

 

The ecu will not fully reset from a battery disconnection. I changed my oil and this was my 2nd time but i ran into some serious rough idle this time. I drained some oil and then performed the pedal ecu reset and the car was back to normal, thank god! Try it and hopefully it will help you too.

https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...resetting.html

It took me 3 tries but i finally got it down.

 

I think you need to leave it disconnected for a long time(like a whole day or night), so that the power in the circuit completely gets drained. Just disconnecting the battery for a few minutes won't cut it.

In some cars, you can accelerate this process by disconnecting the battery and then putting the key in and trying to start the car.. because it will suck out any remaining juice in the system. I'm just not sure if this holds true with a G35, but it definitely does on my my Winter ride... Toyota Tacoma.

If I remember correctly, the pedal reset method is not a FULL ECU reset. It just wipes out some of the learned parameters. If you do a battery-disconnect reset, all of the learned operating parameters will be erased and the system will go through the full OBD-II Drive Cycle for inspection readiness.

 

should've got the revup motor

 

Im experiencing this exactly right now. I was on the freeway driving normal yesterday when all of a sudden the car shuddered slightly and the tone of the car grew signifigantly louder-lower drone. I can bearly accelerate and the motor is very unwiling to rev. I tore through the utec until I was back down to just the factory ECU, still same problems. I was at a loss until I started thinking it could be the MAF and thats what I stared to search for on here.
Is this common? My in car wideband also reads pig rich condition if i give it 10% or so throttle. The unwillingness to rev feels like a major retard in timing. No codes.

~Dv8