Background of my G35:

I bought my 2004 G35 in July 2007 and didn't have any problems for the first year. I live in Chicago and it drove fine (although slippery) in the snow and I never had any problems getting it started. It currently has 31,000 miles.

In October I had some problems getting it started so I jumped it and everything seemed OK. I thought I must have left an interior light on or something. The next day it was dead again so I jumped it a few days later and took it to the dealer. The dealer replaced the battery and all was well.

Then, in late November I was leaving for South Bend and was having problems getting it started. It eventually worked and the VDC Off lights came on and I was getting warnings. I had to meet people on the Southside so I drove down there and left it at a friend's house. It was probably about 30 degrees that day. When I returned, it was about 40 degrees and it started but not too easily.

I waited it out to see if it was going to be alright so I drove to the grocery store a few times when it was warmer and everything seemed fine. Since it has become cold I have not been able to get it started. It has a full gas tank, and it turns over but won't fire. I tried to start for a few days with no success. I decided to call roadside assistance and they sent a tow truck. My car is in a gated spot but not covered. The flatbed couldn't get in to tow it. A regular hook truck came and it couldn't fit in there to tow it.

The suggestion today was to wrap the engine in an electric blanket to try and warm it and then start it. Did that for 20 minutes and tried to start but it wouldn't go.

My next plan is to get a bunch of people, throw them 5 bucks a piece, and get them to help push it into my alley so I can call a tow truck.

Any suggestions better than this idea?

Thanks

 

No, you have other problems I/E bad fuel pump or your cars computer isnt recognizing your key, low compression (due to possible oil consumption), or no spark.

 

Have a trusted mechanic look at it, it could be a lot of problems.

 

there is another posibility. i had a similar problem with mine. while playing with the function of the car oneday. ( i assume everyone knows that you can roll your windows up & down fron the doorlock)I put my key the door, to roll the windows up. when finished the lights interior and exterior started flashing. not in a normal manner, but extremely fast. when i hit the unlock button on the remote, i got nothing. so i put the key in the door to unlock. when i did it stopped. i tried it again and it did the same thing, so left it to see what would happen. 30 minutes later my new optima was dead. had i not been in the garage i would have never noticed it. thats how fast they were flashing. the lights barely started coming on before they were off again, and back on. it's never done it again, but it must be a short somewhere.

 

sounds like u have a bad key.. sometimes when they get old and worn the car wont recognize it. next time u try to start it put the key in and try and start it. if it doesnt start take the key out and flip it and try it again. or try a spare key if u have one. if that doesnt work then maybe a short somewhere? check your cig lighter. sometimes if a penny or dime gets stuck in there it will short it out.

 

While there may be more than a single problem, one that is often overlooked is the battery... Just because your issue-suffering vehicle may finally start, doesn't necessarily mean your battery is truly up to snuff. The problem begins with the "new" battery - if it isn't fully bench-charged (at the manufacturer's recommended amperage rate for the appropriate length of time) it'll never function at full capacity.. and at only 65-80%, it can create all sorts of electrical gremlins that will literally drive you nuts! Most OEM dealers don't even bother to do full bench charging; they'll just add electrolyte to a fresh battery, let it sit for an hour or so, and then install it - often with the advice, "Just drive it - the alternator will charge it up." Not so... most alts are designed to maintain a charge on a reasonably good condition and fully charged battery while the vehicle is running; they can't fully charge one back from near death... The fix is to pull your battery, top off with distilled water (if appropriate), and apply a full bench charge using a "real" battery charger (not a "tender") with a "smart circuit" that won't overcharge and will step down to a "floating charge". Amperage and time factors are usually found on a label affixed to the top of the battery. Even if you have other issues, they'll be easier to diagnose and deal with if you know your battery (and charging system) is functioning properly.

 

If all else fails, I would consider either a reputable mechanic or the dealership hooking it up to a diagnostic machine for an analysis of your problem. Of course ask what the diagnostic fee will be if you decide not to go ahead with the recommended work and will they apply it to the work if you give them a green light? Also, will they guarantee that your actual problem will be resolved if you say yes to doing the work?