$2700 to replace a clutch!!!!!! **** thats way too much cash....dealers always lookin to fvck people over....when I had my stang I took it to the dealer becuase my power steerting unit went out so I had no brakes as well as no power steering and still managed to make it to the dealer since it is about a mile away...so I get there and the suppos. tech tells me that I need a new power steering unit and a new water pump because it was about to go out since the car had 50k miles I received the quote.....$1500 I looked at him and said you gotta be ****ting me....I replaced it myself end result $150 with new pulley on pump as well!!!!!!!

 

Yeah I agree the price is way too high. I just don't know that I'm comfortable doing it myself. I've worked on older "muscle" cars before but it's been a long time... especially changing a clutch. Is there anything strange or anything special I need to know about changing it on a G?

 

Sure he could have bought a POS Mustang (his words) but then he'd be driving a POS Mustang with an inexpensive clutch and primitive suspension, nowhere near the level of fit and finish inside (excluded 2010, that's a nice car).

Same JWT kit here including the TOB from mynismo.com, $799 shipped. First clutch died before 30k miles, too. The valueline OEM clutch is used in a lot of Nissans, it's a cheap clutch with a very expensive flywheel.

Stealership always tries to get you into a $1200 flywheel replacement, because the OEM dual mass "can't be machined", ~$400 for the clutch, but not sure where the other $1100 is coming from.

My dealer quoted me $600 labor, $1600 parts. I said no thanks, bought the JWT and paid about $450 including replacing the trans fluid with Motul at the time (unrelated cost). Total cost still a good amount at $1300, but better than $2700. Mine just started slipping in 4th and 5th under load from moderate speed, classic clutch failure.

Hard use may have been a factor



Pretty colors.

Also suggest you get a cheap $15 part, it's a bolt that the shifter uses to act on the fork, has a rounded end, maybe less than 2" long. REPLACE it. They fatigue prematurely and if they break you have to pull the trans AGAIN to replace it.

Also see here for happy owners who lost their clutch because the bolt broke under use:
https://g35driver.com/forums/drivetr...00-clutch.html

Mine snapped in the driveway with the motor off, so no harm done other than to my wallet, $400 to have the trans pulled again and $15 for the shifter fork pivot bolt.

Also strongly recommend splurging on a new clutch slave cylinder at the same time, my OEM slave cyl had some crap in it and its seals blew <6 months after the clutch was done, another ~$30 part but at least on the '04 it's on the outside of the trans. It's way too close to the cat, and my opinion based on the condition of the seals when I pulled it apart is heat was a factor.

You don't want to walk out in the morning find your clutch pedal won't return and see this when the slave blows its seals and pukes on the driveway or garage floor:

 

Wow, SteveZ thanks for the great info man. Definitely some good ideas there, especially since they are so cheap to do at the same time.

 

You're welcome, and ha ha, ask me how I know - I did every single one of those three things at different times...live and learn.

If you're pissed about paying for a clutch, imagine how pissed you would be when you pay someone $120 in towing charges AND another $400 labor to replace that $15 bolt <6 months later, or worse, some people have fried their clutches when it failed, probably stuck in gear. Mine broke when it was in neutral at least.

Then you have it all done, come out and your clutch just goes to the floor, because the slave is dead At least that I fixed on my own, although it was very challenging to get the fluid clean and free of air.

Def can't recommend enough avoiding what I did!!!

 

Thanks a bunch for the info, Steve. I hadn't yet found info related to the shift fork pivot bolt.

This single bolt now moves to the top of my list of defects in the system.

Other theories include:

1. Defective Slave Cylinder. I know this is is a commonly shared theory, but why would the dealer recommend changing mine if it wasn't bad and/or wasn't to blame for the damage to my clutch disk and flywheel?

Additionally, why would the 2k7 model get a different slave cylinder design if there wasn't something wrong with the old one?

2. Excessive heat in the transmission. This could either be directly related to defective or improperly designed parts, that ultimately causes other parts to wear down prematurely and/or causes the fluid to boil, which causes the cylinder to fail.

3. OC issue causing more heat than the system was designed for. My crank snapped due to OC issue and heat related fatigue. If there is enough heat within the engine to fatigue the crank, it makes sense that parts connected to the crank, like the flywheel, and systems connected to the engine, like the clutch and transmission, are also experiencing greater amount of heat than intended.


I have some additional theories, but don't have enough info yet to legitimately make a claim. That being said, would it be impractical to think that the dual-mass flywheel has a design flaw?

The dealer told me (and yes, I am taking what the dealer says with a large grain of salt), that my fly-wheel was warped, showing hot-spots, yet my clutch disk wasn't completely burned out yet. If that is the case, how would a part that is supposedly damaged by excessive friction with the clutch disk show 'spots' rather than a complete circular wear pattern? Perhaps there is something wrong with the flywheel or it's proximity to excessive heat when it is no longer turning?

 

I wish I could tell you but I have never done a clutch on a g45/350z...when something does fail on my vehicles though I usually go around asking different shops around town and check out the prices if all prices are too high I buy the repair manual for the car I have study it and do it myself I am not a car mechanic lol but I am a diesel and heavy equipment mechanic ahahaha

 

If you replace the flywheel pay close attention to the orientation and alignment of the bolts . AM FW's are sometimes different in how they install on the G vs. Z.

 

You have a pattern of service problems and a voluntary recall on the Slave Cyl working in your favor (see below). Internal motor heat due to inadequate oil circulation if your crank snapped was most likely also a rod bearing or rod failure. Too hot trans will just cook the fluids which is where running Motul or Redline can help, they have much better resistance to thermal viscosity breakdown than regular MT fluid. TB will mean that your trans bearings in particular will wear very quickly. Pay close attention to the recommended change interval and change both the trans and diff fluid before needed, it's cheap insurance. I've seen where the diff fluid was changed on schedule yet it was sludge in a 350Z. The sludge was so bad the car's axles had strong resistance to turning.

Hot "spots" are pretty normal, friction material isn't exactly uniform and nor does the FW wear perfectly uniformly. Mine is a good example of this kind of wear:



Things got a little hot. In my case I don't contest anything about when and how the clutch failed, to be perfectly honest it was very hard use that did it in. I just got a beefier clutch and new FW elsewhere.

As to wth is wrong with this picture overall, it's not uncommon for manufacturers to make a conscious choice to spec a lighter an inferior clutch that gets especially beat on by the large lower end torque in our motors. It's easier to use for the driver, helps isolate the transmissions from shock, etc. In this case IMHO they went too close to the margin and instead of possibly failing later around 60k miles we see a lot fail (wear out) with 30k miles or even less. Add to that people moving from a F/F driver with a really light clutch may be less than kind never having had a heavier MT clutch than an Acura or Honda's. The dual mass FW just dampens vibrations and smooths out things in an already fairly "buzzy" drivetrain in our cars. Maybe the 07 is better, but particularly in stock trim NVH is a little high from the motor and drivetrain, almost every reviewer mentions this at some point. Ironically when I went to my COBB AP and Stage 2 tune, the motor seems to have smoothed out considerably, esp up at higher revs (unlike yours I had stock 6800 redline), it's pretty smooth up to 7400 rpm cutoff now.


Btw for the 2007 MY:

ITB08-001
2007 INFINITI G35 6-MT; VOLUNTARY SERVICE CAMPAIGN CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER
Infiniti has determined that on some 2007 G35 sedan vehicles equipped with the 6-speed manual transmission, the clutch slave cylinder assembly may not have been manufactured properly. This could result in the operating force of the clutch pedal becoming light, and in some cases, could result in improper clutch operation. Infiniti is conducting a Voluntary Service Campaign to replace the clutch slave cylinder assembly with a new improved part free of charge for parts or labor

or

You don't have to drop the tranny for external replacement, it's got to be inside the case. I've replaced my '04's and it is really easy. As to why it moved, as I mentioned it was in a bad location as itself it exposed to heat from the driver's side cat, exposed to road grime, salt, sand. Problem I believe is depending on how and when it failed, it can cook the clutch. Stuck with potential warranty claims they re-engineered the slave cyl. Sounds like the engineering was OK, just something went wrong in execution (manufacture).

 

Has anybody recorded the temperature just outside of the fluid line?

 

also, check your clutch pedal engagement point...if you barely tap the clutch between shifts it may be riding the clutch in essence and causing the clutch to burn up quickly...just had the same problem, tech finally discovered it after my second clutch in under 60,000 miles

 

i had the same problem but ALOT worse. i had just bought the car brand new for 43G out the door and 18 days later had to pay 3 grand for a flywheel and clutch. my clutch use to stick to the floor by itself but they said wear and tear and there was some wear on the rear tires . and not i am at 45 thousand miles on my 5th clutch now switching to a Act organic clutch with a act light flywheel .

(Alot of 1/8th mile runs)

 

great info and EXACTLY what my dealer told me. My clultch is still good but I had to have the clutch pedal adjusted up at my last service, which they said was due to clutch wear. They said I might be close to needing a clutch (was under 20k miles, but I drive hard including couple track days).

They also quoted me $1200 for the flywheel which they said had to be replaced with the clutch. They also said aftermarket one peice flywheels would be very noisy (confirmed by hearing my friends car, lol) replacements. They also said it would be close to $3k for the replacement...

I need my clutch to last about 32k miles so I can return it with the car at end of lease, lol...

 

I spoke with a tech last night at my dealership. They had my car for 6 weeks while making warranty repairs, but left out a few things I asked for them to check on, plus gave me a few new door dings in the process. BONUS! uhg...

The tech acknowledged that "many people report having problems with the clutch, and it's not uncommon for it to need replacement at 40k miles..."

I gave him the look of, "common...you know...and I know...why won't anybody at Infiniti just admit that this thing gets too hot? Look how close the line is to the cat."

He tells me that while it is an insulated line, there is A LOT of heat that it is exposed to.

I tell him, "Nobody is willing to acknowledge this. So...if I chose to have the clutch replaced, but nobody flushes the fluid line because there is NO WAY clutch fluid could boil, I'll find myself back here in about 20k miles with the same problem, because nothing was done about the real problem here; boiling fluid."

He just gives me a look like, "yeah, that's pretty much the case."

I'm done with this car. done.

some prices to consider:
$1200 - $1300 is dealer cost for all parts (flywheel, clutch disc, throw-out bearing and pressure plate."

My dealer was marking the parts up to $1,700

Labor is only a 2 hour job.

Any dealer charging more than $2k to replace this is ripping you off. Tell them that.

 

ok so im at 42500 and i need it replaced cuz its slipping at just about every gear if i apply sudden acceleration.... ya same quoted price btw

07 sedan also soo my dad is really upset and he says its cause i burned out the clutch and i cant drive it properly...is he right or does this seem to be common?