Drivers side power window not functioning
Drivers side power window not functioning
I rolled down my window (drivers side) and the darn window won't roll back up. The passenger side is okay. Even after playing around with the switch the window won't move. Does anyone have any ideas on how to figure out if its a motor problem or fuse problem?
Thanks,
BC Green
Thanks,
BC Green
Your motor is most likely dead. Buy a lifetime guarantee one at Kragens and replace it yourself.
Bang on your door frame while pushing the "up" button at the same time. That should roll your window back up for now.
I know because I had to replace both of mine.
Bang on your door frame while pushing the "up" button at the same time. That should roll your window back up for now.
I know because I had to replace both of mine.
I'm not sure if they sell aftermarket window motors anywhere? The ones I looked at have always been refurbished window motors.
The trick I've been told here that has worked for both my motors now is this:
Open the door, hold the switch in the direction you want, close the door while holding the switch. If that doesn't work, gotta open up the door panel and raise the window manually.
Open the door, hold the switch in the direction you want, close the door while holding the switch. If that doesn't work, gotta open up the door panel and raise the window manually.
Window motor failures are quite common on our cars. There are no real shortcuts other than replacement of motor. Best bet is to shop around for independent shop quotes for replacement of motor. Good luck.
Well, I spent 6 hours taking the drivers door apart and trying to put it back together again. Finally just after midnight I buttoned it up. The motor square piece won't fit into the bracket. It was just slightly off so that I couldn't be the screw holes to line up with the bracket. So I took the motor cover off to move the square center just enough so it would fit. The problem arose when the cover to the motor didn't completely seal. So I screwed it back together the best I could and reassembled the door. When I flipped the switch, the motor was silent but the switch does make a small noise. The noise is not that unusual, its a typical relay sound and it was present when the window stopped functioning. The passenger door switch does not make any sound comparable to the drivers door.
So do you guys think its the switch or the motor?
So do you guys think its the switch or the motor?
Last edited by bcgreen; Jul 11, 2009 at 12:33 PM.
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i just got the same problem... my date rolled the window down and couldn't roll it back up. i got out and tried rolling it up by turning the key in the door, and it worked.
anyone know why it would work like that, but not with the switch?
mine was the passenger window btw.
anyone know why it would work like that, but not with the switch?
mine was the passenger window btw.
@bcgreen
The motor is easy to diagnose if you have the door apart. Get a hot wire tester. There's only 2 wires going to the motor, and they alternate polarity. Going up, one wire is hot, going down, the other wire is hot. Vice versa for ground. So if the wires alternate hot and ground to the motor, and it doesn't work, it's the motor. If the wires don't alternate the polarity, then it may be a relay problem, or the switch, or any part of the circuit between the switch and the motor.
-Josh
The motor is easy to diagnose if you have the door apart. Get a hot wire tester. There's only 2 wires going to the motor, and they alternate polarity. Going up, one wire is hot, going down, the other wire is hot. Vice versa for ground. So if the wires alternate hot and ground to the motor, and it doesn't work, it's the motor. If the wires don't alternate the polarity, then it may be a relay problem, or the switch, or any part of the circuit between the switch and the motor.
-Josh
@bcgreen
The motor is easy to diagnose if you have the door apart. Get a hot wire tester. There's only 2 wires going to the motor, and they alternate polarity. Going up, one wire is hot, going down, the other wire is hot. Vice versa for ground. So if the wires alternate hot and ground to the motor, and it doesn't work, it's the motor. If the wires don't alternate the polarity, then it may be a relay problem, or the switch, or any part of the circuit between the switch and the motor.
-Josh
The motor is easy to diagnose if you have the door apart. Get a hot wire tester. There's only 2 wires going to the motor, and they alternate polarity. Going up, one wire is hot, going down, the other wire is hot. Vice versa for ground. So if the wires alternate hot and ground to the motor, and it doesn't work, it's the motor. If the wires don't alternate the polarity, then it may be a relay problem, or the switch, or any part of the circuit between the switch and the motor.
-Josh
Since I have taken the whole door apart and reinstalled everything, this time it should go much faster.
Last edited by bcgreen; Jul 11, 2009 at 01:10 PM.
Josh, can I test out the motor by just hooking it up to the switch and turning it on? If it works in my hand then I can go ahead an reinstall it or am I going to have a problem doing it this way?. I don't know if I screwed things up by not being able to put the lid back on the motor tightly, but I guess I can go and get another and just tell them this one didn't work. I can take the switch out and have someone do a quick test and they can tell me if I have a bad switch
Since I have taken the whole door apart and reinstalled everything, this time it should go much faster.
Since I have taken the whole door apart and reinstalled everything, this time it should go much faster.
If the motor does spin in your hand, then everything electrical is A OK. That square plastic piece that the motor fits into Can possibly get chewed up. That's what happened to me last time, after replacing the motor, but the mechanic got it working for me for free. Haven't had any problems since. But yea if the square **** is spinning when you flip the switch, everything electrical is good.
You can take out your switch and plug in someone else's. But the switch itself is rarely the problem. Which happened to me in my last car. I had to jerry rig a 3 channel switch to make it work without replacing the switch. But the motor is usually the problem with our cars, not to say that something else may be the problem.
And thanks for the tip...



But yes find out what it is before you start buying parts. I think I have both if you find your self in a bad spot.