Hey guys,

I just bought my G35 two months ago and have been doing a lot of research into mods and trying to decide which direction I want to go. I've been in the background of g35driver reading a lot of old threads, watching youtube vids etc. Now I have a ton of questions! From what I've seen, read, noticed is the VQ37 is making much more power mod for mod than the VQ35. I do understand it is obviously a bigger motor, different internal setup etc. What would need to be replaced in order to make some serious power like the VQ37 has been? With and without FI? Initially I would like to stay all motor, but work a project that develops good numbers. Some mods are essential such as exhaust, intake etc. to help the car breathe. But I don't want to waste money on mods that aren't going to get me where I want to be, which is putting down good numbers. I realize really high numbers on a N/A VQ aren't that feasible as in a LSx motor, but I want to put down ~300-325whp on a N/A motor. Is that possible?? Constructive criticism is appreciated.

Also, on a side note, I like torque a lot! Best torque producing mods?

Thanks in advance for your input, g35driver has taught me so much!

-Sean

 

get a motordyne 5/16 plenum spacer about 10hp, high flow cats or test pipes about 9hp, exhaust about 6 hp, intake about 2hp and a tune about 13hp

 

The NA Build section on my350z.com will probably be able to fill in most of your questions, but if you want to get to those HP fast, easy, and cheap then NA is probably not your best choice.

http://my350z.com/forum/na-builds-498/

 

ditto...you will basically need a lot of bolt-ons covering the intake and exhaust side of things and you're going to want to invest in the proven stuff to see the most benefits, you're going to also need to do quite a bit of internal work such as cams, head P&P, lighter/stronger rotating assembly in the block that also raised compression, fuel system upgrades, oil flow mods (oil-cooler and rev-up oil pump) and then better lower gearing to keep you in that sweet spot and of course a really good dyno-tune. Thats just a summation, you'll spend as much or more than a FI setup that would allow you to run stock internals (so long as you kept boost low).

I think for around $10K-$15K you can buy the Nismo-380RS engine assembly (piece by piece that is) or a Cosworth-VQ engine, otherwise I'd look into partnering up with GTM or ForgeMotorsports.

For far less money investment and a hp-goal of less than 300whp you can still have a heavy bolt-on NA car that is radically more responsive (i.e. torquey) than stock, but just leave out the internall block work (you should still get cams and a P&P).

Going NA really needs to be a well thought out, shop supported path, so good luck!

 

Ahh i see you used a TI-89 Rice Calculator

 

With these mods would you get better or worse gas mileage?

 

His numbers are not off at all, they are actually reasonable/possible gains for the mods that he listed. What are your grounds to dispute his statement or are you just keyboard happy?

 

g37s and 370z are easily putting over 320whp by intakes, hfcs, exhaust, and tune...

reg bolt on 370z with headers, hfc, exhaust, and intakes just put over 334whp... and that pretty fast on N/a engine
http://g35nyc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28911

 

That's exactly what I'm talking about. Last night I saw a video of a TT G37 on 6 psi making 430whp. Then i found another video of a TT G35 on 10 psi making close to 400whp. Why are the gains so much more substantial??

 

^That guy has an insane baseline of ~295/255. For better comparative results against the HR and DE you should look at ForgedPerformance's or GTM's thread on this subject.

http://my350z.com/forum/shop-builds/...velopment.html

http://my350z.com/forum/2009-370z/42...topped-by.html

 

Yea, he said 370z runs were corrected..
It does depend on which dyno is being used.

AHAH!! i was waiting for someone to ask! the 370z dyno runs are corrected! which means that **** uncorrected made 305whp bone stock and technically 348whp. but my runs are uncorrected thats why they are higher.

 

I'm not sure what that guy was trying to say with that statement and where he was getting the other number from. Corrected can either skew power up or down depending on the conditions. Regardless of that, those baseline he got are high when compared to more reputable shops on here.

You are absolutely correct that power numbers are highly dependent on dyno settings and that a comparison with minimal variation is the best when comparing different engines.

We can't defy time so it's just natural that VHR will be far superior to the DE. Here are some differences between the two. You can possibly buy some parts or do some work to the DE to match these but it won't be cheap like I said.
-VHR has a longer stroke
-VHR is higher compression
-VHR has VVEL
-VHR has an extra 1000rpm to generate more power
-VHR has bigger stock cams

 

Your right... We worked on my friends 08 g35sedan...
Before the Bolt ons, my DE would walk him a good car from dig.

But after we did, longtube injen intakes, betty grounding kit, berk hfcs, and fast intensions exhaust on it...
Even If I launch split second before him.( him actually seeing my tails off dig.) by good 70-80 He's walkin pass me reallyyyy good lol.
They respond to mods better, and he's car shifts almost on 9k in D/s mode by itself...

I wanna trade for n 07 350z HR =[

 

Yeah my dad bought a 08 350z awhile back. That engine is amazing. It just revs and revs!! The first time I drove it and took it to redline, I actually felt like I was going to blow the motor or something, even though it was still well under the redline.

Back to my OP, I don't want to go boost, because that's the easy way to develop power. I like all motor setups. I've read the responses I've gotten, and looked over gabe3d's 4.15L build, and I'm for sure going to take that road. Funding is the only problem, but I'm a very patient person.

Can someone give me a quick pro/con of cams? Also, I've been doing some searching on HFC, but haven't found too much on the cleanest sounding set. I HATE rasp, and would rather stick with the OEM exhaust than have an aftermarket exhaust with any sort of rasp. What is the best way around it? Recommendations based on cleanest sound? Exhaust wise, I want something louder than OEM, deep, but with a growl. Setup ideas/input anyone??

Thanks again!

 

yes, its rice numbers. He's not going to gain up to 40hp with those mods, maybe around half those number. Unless your counting peak hp numbers, which doesn't matter anyway.