Brembo?
Re: Brembo?
Another question is "where can you buy the Brembos for the 6MT coupe?" I have heard that it can cost up to $500 for the dealership to do a brake job with the Brembos, and that is insane. I would much rather do it myself, but finding those exact Brembos hasn't been easy. Please advise.
Mods:
Aluminum racing pedals
JWT Pop Charger / Z-tube Combo
Mods:
Aluminum racing pedals
JWT Pop Charger / Z-tube Combo
Re: Brembo?
To upgrade, it requires that you get new rotors, pads, calipers and possibly the brake lines. From what I hear, the parts are not exactly cheap. You might be able to get an even larger brake kit for your G for less by going aftermarket. I'm Sure Brembo makes a Gran Turismo Kit, AP Racing brakes can probably be bought through Stillen and Stoptech should have a nice kit out for the G as well. In fact, I believe stoptech has a kit that uses 4 piston calipers in the front and rear. It's a bit pricey, but I doubt you'll ever have fade with those.
Re: Brembo?
Number of caliper pistons has nothing to do with fade, just how much the rotor weights and the graph [slope of friction vs. temperature, vs. pressure curve of the pad material and its area.
Obviously the air flow over rotor and pad [pretty shrouded] can remove some of the heat build up slowly.
The average warm pad is 22-40 pounds on the pedal which rises to 100+ pounds as fade progresses.
Ever notice how hard or impossible it is to get a graph of friction vs temperature for a manufacturers pad material.
Only oem pads are tested by US government to make sure they comply with minimum safe requirements at 200F and 600F. AFTERMARKET pads under go NO testing to check compliance. Obviously they are tested inhouse but who knows against to what standards.
Just like a seesaw when you increase friction at high temperatures you lose friction at cold low average temperatures!
Sometimes you can over design a brake system and get into trouble on the street with racing pads which really don't start working till 600F.
The oem manufacturers problem [constraint] is the pads have to work well cold in winter on that first panic stop 30 seconds after the car is started. This is a harder to achieve situation than make them stop at 1000F.
The following is an excellant tutorial on brake pad composition and friction vs. termperature effects:
http://www.sae.org/events/bce/tutorial-bahadur.pdf
Generally pad size doesn't affect single stop distances till the pad gets over 600F so up to 120-140 mph it is a wash.
Pad friction graphs study red then click on green stuff
http://www.motorsportworld.co.uk/fra...tuff-pads.htm.
Notice none of them spec what happens below 50C [112F]!
Obviously the air flow over rotor and pad [pretty shrouded] can remove some of the heat build up slowly.
The average warm pad is 22-40 pounds on the pedal which rises to 100+ pounds as fade progresses.
Ever notice how hard or impossible it is to get a graph of friction vs temperature for a manufacturers pad material.
Only oem pads are tested by US government to make sure they comply with minimum safe requirements at 200F and 600F. AFTERMARKET pads under go NO testing to check compliance. Obviously they are tested inhouse but who knows against to what standards.
Just like a seesaw when you increase friction at high temperatures you lose friction at cold low average temperatures!
Sometimes you can over design a brake system and get into trouble on the street with racing pads which really don't start working till 600F.
The oem manufacturers problem [constraint] is the pads have to work well cold in winter on that first panic stop 30 seconds after the car is started. This is a harder to achieve situation than make them stop at 1000F.
The following is an excellant tutorial on brake pad composition and friction vs. termperature effects:
http://www.sae.org/events/bce/tutorial-bahadur.pdf
Generally pad size doesn't affect single stop distances till the pad gets over 600F so up to 120-140 mph it is a wash.
Pad friction graphs study red then click on green stuff
http://www.motorsportworld.co.uk/fra...tuff-pads.htm.
Notice none of them spec what happens below 50C [112F]!
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Re: Brembo?
There are problem with sliding calipers that fixed calipers don't have. The soft cast calipers that come stock on Z06s are the same PBR units that come on Mustang GTs. Mustang Cobras get the reinforced HD version of the same caliper. The problem is that the clipers torque and in the case of the softer PBR units, they flex. They as a result provide uneven brake pressure to both sides of the rotor at times not even allowing the entire pad surface to rest against the rotors. With sliding calipers, the inner pad is always applied first and then the caliper has to settle when the out pad contacts. This is why the inner brake shoe commonly wears more on sliding piston brakes.
For someone who only does occassional hard stops on the street, it won't make a difference. If you like to run tracks or push your brakes all the time, you are going to want the big 4-6 pistion binders.
04' G35 Coupe 6-sp
Diamond Graphite/Willow w/Premium
For someone who only does occassional hard stops on the street, it won't make a difference. If you like to run tracks or push your brakes all the time, you are going to want the big 4-6 pistion binders.
04' G35 Coupe 6-sp
Diamond Graphite/Willow w/Premium
Re: Brembo?
<blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>
People gawk at the brembos.
<hr></blockquote>
I must agree. The nicely finished calipers just scream HOT. People can seriously get off to those things. Other than that, I like the linear feel of the brakes better.
Black / Black 2004 GcoupeMT. Premium. Splash Guardz.
People gawk at the brembos.
<hr></blockquote>
I must agree. The nicely finished calipers just scream HOT. People can seriously get off to those things. Other than that, I like the linear feel of the brakes better.
Black / Black 2004 GcoupeMT. Premium. Splash Guardz.
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tadmcmichael
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