G35 issues before 65,000 miles?
#1
03-01-2010, 03:05 PM
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G35 issues before 65,000 miles?
I just bought a G35 with 35k miles on it.
I decided to buy a "total care" warranty since the factory one was expired, but now I am thinking about bagging it. 2800 bucks back to me!
Are there any notorious issues with these cars, before the 70k mark?
Sorry for the noob question, TIA.
I decided to buy a "total care" warranty since the factory one was expired, but now I am thinking about bagging it. 2800 bucks back to me!
Are there any notorious issues with these cars, before the 70k mark?
Sorry for the noob question, TIA.
#3
03-01-2010, 04:15 PM
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#4
03-01-2010, 04:35 PM
i can smell burned oil coming threw the vents after about 20 min of driving and then it stops and it starts again. im thinking a small oil leak some where on the engine and dripping on the pipe, i haven't had a chance to check it out. my car has 31,100 miles its an 06.
Last edited by tolyD; 03-01-2010 at 04:53 PM.
#6
03-01-2010, 05:05 PM
It might be a good idea to see if you have a valve cover issue with oil collectiing in the spark plug filler tubes. If under warranty, you might luck out as it is an expensive repair. Good luck.
#7
03-01-2010, 05:13 PM
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Depending if you plan on working on your own car or not. If you know how to work on your own ride then I say take back the 2800 but as stidrver said "alittle peace of mind goes along way."
I personally would never buy extended warranty, a little research, experience, the right tools, and some elbow grease is all a need.
I personally would never buy extended warranty, a little research, experience, the right tools, and some elbow grease is all a need.
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#8
03-01-2010, 05:32 PM
some one said something about the dip stick and it leaks oil too like the gasket around it gets bad. man i have to check this out.
#10
03-02-2010, 05:18 PM
May be worthwhile...depends on what's been done to date.
I just bought a G35 with 35k miles on it.
I decided to buy a "total care" warranty since the factory one was expired, but now I am thinking about bagging it. 2800 bucks back to me!
Are there any notorious issues with these cars, before the 70k mark?
Sorry for the noob question, TIA.
I decided to buy a "total care" warranty since the factory one was expired, but now I am thinking about bagging it. 2800 bucks back to me!
Are there any notorious issues with these cars, before the 70k mark?
Sorry for the noob question, TIA.
1) Clutch and Flywheel (claim cannot be resurfaced), expensive $$$ - $1100 FW, $300 clutch, plus labor. Many people wear the OEM clutch out early.
2) Brakes - if a dealer does the work the going rate quoted to me was $500 for replacement rotors, just replacing 4 pads, turning the rears and replacement fronts over $1400. Note this can be done a lot more cost effectively somewhere else - $800 for 4 rotors is not uncommon, using Brembo Sport rotors.
3) Valve Cover spark plug hole seals - see "Check Before Your Powertrain Warranty is Up" thread. Seals leak sometimes, require complete VC replacement. Mine just done this year at 59k under warranty. $800 job otherwise w/parts, labor. Covers are not cheap, they had my car overnight to get the job done.
4) BOSE HU if so equipped, lost the left channel after a few years, replaced under warranty.
5) Various TSB repairs like Axle click, gas tank issues (hoses are a recall and free by law) like not filling up all the way (sticking flap not venting).
6) Window motors/regulators - for some reason these seem to have a higher failure rate than normal for cars like this. Possibly because the window has to snug up or drop every time the door is opened/closed. Plus the complexity of key/key fob operation allowing 1/4 drop, etc. Regulator + Motor + Labor > $500.
HTH and doesn't scare you. I've had mine since Nov 2003 (2004 MY) and really when I look at repairs/maintenance costs, the money you are talking for total care really depends on whether it is bumper to bumper or just powertrain.2) Brakes - if a dealer does the work the going rate quoted to me was $500 for replacement rotors, just replacing 4 pads, turning the rears and replacement fronts over $1400. Note this can be done a lot more cost effectively somewhere else - $800 for 4 rotors is not uncommon, using Brembo Sport rotors.
3) Valve Cover spark plug hole seals - see "Check Before Your Powertrain Warranty is Up" thread. Seals leak sometimes, require complete VC replacement. Mine just done this year at 59k under warranty. $800 job otherwise w/parts, labor. Covers are not cheap, they had my car overnight to get the job done.
4) BOSE HU if so equipped, lost the left channel after a few years, replaced under warranty.
5) Various TSB repairs like Axle click, gas tank issues (hoses are a recall and free by law) like not filling up all the way (sticking flap not venting).
6) Window motors/regulators - for some reason these seem to have a higher failure rate than normal for cars like this. Possibly because the window has to snug up or drop every time the door is opened/closed. Plus the complexity of key/key fob operation allowing 1/4 drop, etc. Regulator + Motor + Labor > $500.
You still have 4/48k and 6/70k warranty in effect on miles unless the car is older than 4 years. I assume at least one of those are expired, otherwise they are transferable.
For me, that took care of 3,4, & 5 above. #1 and #2 are wear items and if they are covered, that would make it potentially worthwhile. Also it's not the labor that kills you on things like the clutch, if you stick with OEM parts ( I wouldn't, see my sig) then parts are 80% of that job. Same for brakes - outrageous costs for Brembo Brake replacement rotors.
Last edited by SteveZ; 03-02-2010 at 05:19 PM. Reason: format
#11
03-02-2010, 05:27 PM
VC cover leaks would be easy to spot. The spark plug tube seals in the VC however you need to pull a plug or 6 to ensure that's not it. Left long enough as a problem, the spark plug(s) soaked in oil can start to have problems. i heard about the problem but around the same time had just gone with the COBB AP, was getting some random misfire codes. Turns out it was the spark plugs.
Check driver's side #4 and #6 to start with, for some reason I see more of the ones on that side.
This showed up after ~50k miles, hard to know exactly when. Btw I doubt this is the source of your oil smell, the seals let mine fill with oil over half the height, it has nowhere to go (except maybe back into the place it came from).
#12
03-02-2010, 05:36 PM
If same as warranty that came with the car, forget it if you do your own work or have a reasonable and reliable mechanic. I was quoted $600-700 to replace the cracked front lifter on my driver's seat - parts I picked up for $150 shipped, labor is not more than an afternoon's work. I don't fault the design or car, I have done some pretty evil things to, ahem, stress test the seat mounting bits.
#13
03-02-2010, 05:57 PM
I haven't seen this problem on either my 2003 350Z or my 2004 Coupe. I have seen people not completely seat the dipstick because it is a really PITA design.
VC cover leaks would be easy to spot. The spark plug tube seals in the VC however you need to pull a plug or 6 to ensure that's not it. Left long enough as a problem, the spark plug(s) soaked in oil can start to have problems. i heard about the problem but around the same time had just gone with the COBB AP, was getting some random misfire codes. Turns out it was the spark plugs.
Check driver's side #4 and #6 to start with, for some reason I see more of the ones on that side.
This showed up after ~50k miles, hard to know exactly when. Btw I doubt this is the source of your oil smell, the seals let mine fill with oil over half the height, it has nowhere to go (except maybe back into the place it came from).
VC cover leaks would be easy to spot. The spark plug tube seals in the VC however you need to pull a plug or 6 to ensure that's not it. Left long enough as a problem, the spark plug(s) soaked in oil can start to have problems. i heard about the problem but around the same time had just gone with the COBB AP, was getting some random misfire codes. Turns out it was the spark plugs.
Check driver's side #4 and #6 to start with, for some reason I see more of the ones on that side.
This showed up after ~50k miles, hard to know exactly when. Btw I doubt this is the source of your oil smell, the seals let mine fill with oil over half the height, it has nowhere to go (except maybe back into the place it came from).
doesnt a spark plug heats up to the boiling point??? that could create the burning oil smell.
#14
03-03-2010, 12:15 PM
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These are problems I've run into since my G has hit 70k+ miles;
Front inner Bushings- common problem for 350z cost me $100 (DIY Project)
Faulty O2 sensor- Have unplug O2 and plug it back in b/c it throws the computer off
Reverse Lamp Switch- Reverse lights went out Switch cost $30
Bolts around the Subframe start to come loose, caused a loud popping sound
And I am having alot of the same problems others listed, like the vavle cover issue. My driver side window is starting to mess up and the Gas tank issue.
Honestly, I know cars are meant to break down but this is ridiculous. I don't drive my G hard at all, I just like to cruise it so I don't understand how one could have so many problems. I can say my expierence with this car has sucked, I figured I would keep it a little bit longer and to get something new.
Front inner Bushings- common problem for 350z cost me $100 (DIY Project)
Faulty O2 sensor- Have unplug O2 and plug it back in b/c it throws the computer off
Reverse Lamp Switch- Reverse lights went out Switch cost $30
Bolts around the Subframe start to come loose, caused a loud popping sound
And I am having alot of the same problems others listed, like the vavle cover issue. My driver side window is starting to mess up and the Gas tank issue.
Honestly, I know cars are meant to break down but this is ridiculous. I don't drive my G hard at all, I just like to cruise it so I don't understand how one could have so many problems. I can say my expierence with this car has sucked, I figured I would keep it a little bit longer and to get something new.
#15
03-03-2010, 02:58 PM
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