So update, I went to pick up the car and had it out with the service manager. They stuck to their story and in short, wouldn't listen at all and blamed it on the clutch.

Also, I just did my alignment on Saturday and checked out my brakes. Specs on the brakes were 8/32 rear and 4/32 fronts. Infiniti tells me my front brakes are at the squealers and need to replace them now. I called them out on their lie and they said "oh, well at 4/32 you're going to need them soon anyway". I told them to **** off and now I'm dealing with corporate.

FYI, the dealer I was at was Holman Infiniti in Maple Shade, NJ. Avoid at all cost!!

 

master or slave or both?

 

As a service writer at Honda, I always tell the techs to replace both. Both items are covered under warranty and could cause similar concerns. It becomes a general practice at my dealership to replace both at once to avoid any mistakes and need for the customer to return.

 

^ yes, replacing both is ideal...but I'm curious if Infiniti has chosen to replace both at the same time or progressively. And if it is the latter, which did they choose to replace first.

 

its the clutch master cylinder. you probably have a leak because i had the same problem too. just get it to the dealership to get it serviced

 

hope this video will fix the problem.
http://www.infinitihelp.com/diy/gsed...id_service.htm

 

Please read. My whole situation is that the dealer is blaming it on the clutch disk being worn, which I know is not the case, and is refusing to do anything else.

 

why don't you take it to another dealer?

 

brakes at 8/32?? and 4/32? you said you worked at a honda dealership. you must have been in sales

you mean 8mm and 4mm remaining.. we recommend replacing pads at 2mm.

 

mine does the exact same thing!

i rarely drive more than 20 miles one way so it doesn't happen to me as much, but when its a hot day and i'm driving for awhile (or i'm in traffic) the pedal sticks and i gotta pull it up with my foot...

 

LiquidREVUP - sucking your clutch fluid out and replacing with DOT4 synthetic will fix that exact problem. 99% guaranteed.

 

thanks, i'll definitely do that

 

So I got my car back today and the service guy said that this issue is to be expected with an aftermarket performance clutch and flywheel. I told him I'm not sure that is true. I feel like I should still be able to have a clutch pedal that works properly. So he told me to drive the car for a while and see if the problem continues. I drove about 15 miles home and the clutch never stuck all the way but I could feel it getting squishy the further I drove.

 

I had the same problem with the OEM clutch, i actually had burned it out, and the dealer did nothing about it. So i changed it to a JWT clutch, never stuck after that but the pedal is way harder than the OEM pedal.

year 06 g35 coupe.
at the time everything was stock, it has 68,000 KM on it. not miles !
dealer said the clutch is worn out, which was not but it got stuck alot of times and burned to the point where it was worn out.
dealer didnt do jack about it... and i got a jwt clutch at the end.

 

When you guys are talking about replacing the master or slave cylinder being covered by warranty, what warranty are you specifically talking about? The powertrain or the bumper to bumper?